Miata e breaks are shitie. Unles yu had sum sort of hydrawlik brak bak there.

 

fixt

 

This. Colloquially, "stock block" means 100% stock from the head surface down. "Built block" means upgraded internals.

 

Pat I bet you can call DSS tomorrow and have you make you some axles. You need S2000 inners on miata axles. Not 100% confident that will seal to the diff but it'll function.

 

Ats more lak it. I unnerstan waht yore sayin now. ****. Dog knocked th lantern over. hole on.

 

Congrats on the low et Pat. Was your camber about what it was before you added the spacers?

 

Hmm. I wonder if that would help? I've read it typically makes heat treated metals harder, which can also have the negative affect of making them more brittle.


I would if I could! This one's done though.

Correct, stock block and crank. I agree with you on the people calling engines blocks, it's dumb. That seems to be a common thing in the 4 cylinder community though for whatever reason.


It was tow-dolly'd, with the dolly on the back tires, front tires rolling on the ground. Is there any way to tell if the bearing is shot or ok? If I reassemble it and the bearing is damaged, will it be obvious but not dangerous? I'd like to just swap in the axle and drive it, make sure nothing else failed (trans, diff, etc).

Agreed!

Dunno, probably spin the wheels if I had to guess.
Thanks for the heads up. Sealing would be important though, but who knows maybe they can build some better ones.

For now I'm going to change my launch control settings, and a couple other things. Try to minimize drivetrain shock as I gave it hell on the 1-2 gear change that broke that axle.

Essentially I rev'd 1st to 8,200, then clutch in (motor shuts off) and into 2nd, and then clutch out. Well once the RPMs dropped below 7,800 (400 rpm drop) the motor turned on at full power while I'm dropping the clutch out. Drivetrain shock city, and I was on drag radials on a prepped track, so it refused to spin. Datalog shows the clutch (or tires) went grab/slip/grab/slip/grab-breakaxle.

Thanks! I don't know what the camber is to be honest... Need to get it aligned for sure, it's been a while, long enough to not quote those numbers since I doubt it's held an alignment for that long.

 

Also a big thanks to Joe, I went there and bought an axle.

 

 

After looking at the pics and parts, I think it's a fatigue failure. And these parts are lathe machined. A quick search shows that a polished surface has a fatigue life about 7x that of a machined surface on a shaft in torsional loading.

Thus I'm now thinking of somehow polishing this part before installing it. But given that it's probably heat treated to the moon, and I have only hand tools, that's gonna be, it's gonna suck.

 

One way to think about it is that bearings are cheap, and most of the hard work is already done.

HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY PGB PGRW237 | NAPA Auto Parts


And the press-free replacement procedure: https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...t-press-56506/




That stub axle has oil-control grooves cut all around it, and is broached all to hell. It's basically made out of stress risers.

 

Looks like it snapped right at the end of the spline?

You wouldn't want it heat treated, it'd shatter more.

And as far as the wheel bearing goes, I've just heard that if its moved at all without an axle or with a loose nut, it'll blow the bearing within a few hundred miles.

Also not broached joe, you can only broach internal splines AFAIK. Look up horizontal hob machine.

 

This looks like the carnage you see all over the 4WD forums when you mix plentiful torque with advantaged gear ratios. You did with just one of them. Props for that, I guess.

 

Christ, that is impressive. Look at those spiral shaped cracks, twisted off. That said, it is nice to know I will never have to worry about the MSM diff and axels going in my car. I plan to stay on stock internals for a while, so will never develop anywhere close to the type of power/abuse you put these through.

 

This is what the last page of this thread has consisted of:



Me: "Block."

Everyone else: "Block doesn't mean block."

Me: "Block means block."

Everyone else: "You're being pedantic."

Me: "Broach."

Me: "Broach doesn't mean broach."

 

The block is a lie.

Also, you're just mad this thread contains zero redheaded cats.

And I don't mean redheaded cats.

 

 

All I can say is . . . dayum!

Pat, you need your own reality TV show. This is good **** right here.

 

These have 160 passes on them at the drag strip. All running 30+ pounds of boost on drag radials, all with 3 second 2nd gear burnout to clean/heat the tires and launching with launch control/flat shift. I'm guessing the axles were cracked before the pass where they broke from previous abuse. They have seen a lot of wheel hop/harsh shifting. I have a video with it on the SC barking 2nd, 3rd, and 4th on drag radials for example, that has to be hell on axles.

You can hear it bark 4th in this vid:


Bark 2nd, 3rd, and 4th on this pass:



Also I may or may not have cracked the subframe in two different spots.... Gotta fix that too.

But I'm hoping I can keep these axles alive with better setup of the launch control/flat shift to reduce shock loading.

 

"Also I may or may not have cracked the subframe in two different spots.... Gotta fix that too.
But I'm hoping I can keep these axles alive with better setup of the launch control/flat shift to reduce shock loading."

Good lord! I'd like to see a camera view from behind your car and see how much it twists.


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