Degrease with brake cleaner, then acetone or even MEK, then dish soap and water, then bake in the oven above 450 for half an hour to outgas. I know baking cast components when powdercoating sometimes makes them outgas.

 

Hexane extraction, but it is a bit spendy.
Sixshooter's method should be adequate, and certainly more cost effective.

 

Thanks sixshooter and Monk! I will follow sixshooter's method, that sounds doable.

A bit off the trans swap, but I found a deal on a 12V electric motor (denso motor, sealed, 1/4hp) and a mazda 3 engine oil pump. Going to build a direct drive adapter and have an electric oil pump to use as a return pump for the rear turbo. The current pump is loud and annoying, this setup I suspect will be much quieter, and more reliable since it's all OEM parts not ebay pump/ebay motor.

 

That should be overkill for a scavenge pump, but better too much than too little. I have flow rate numbers at work for my streetbike gerotor pump driven by a razor scooter motor. It's a lot of oil at 0psi. Then again, I don't know how much hot oil goes through your turbo, probably a significant amount.

 

The current gear rotor pump is tiny (two rotors are of equal size, and about 1" in diameter) and they are overkill. So I'm sure this new pump will be too big, but that shouldn't hurt anything. I'd be interested in seeing flow data and what specific pump you have if you don't mind!

 

I used a Honda rc51 pump off eBay. I'm back in the office next Monday. Pics of my priming pump are on my website under the V6 section.

 

yeah, just checked that pump is much smaller! I've seen the pics of your setup, it's really nice. The only strike against that pump is it doesn't have a backing plate. The one I ordered has an inlet and outlet hole that I should be able to just drill/tap and screw a fitting right in.

Next time I build a car I'm going to add an electric pump like yours for the engine as you did.

 

Hypothetical question.....

If I wanted to make say, 600-700whp, what cams would you guys recommend? It's a VVT head. Assume no catalytic converter, free flowing 3" exhaust of course, and some ID 2000's for fueling. The rest of my fuel system will take it, and I'm pretty sure a 69mm turbo will deliver the air needed.

Wondering what kind of cam specs I should be shooting for?. The head has +1 inconel exhaust valves, stock size stainless intake valves, and ported head, flattop intake manifold.

Custom ground, or off the shelf?

Few pics of cylinder head work, sorry no flow numbers and it's on the car so not coming off anytime soon.

 

Get the 1700s. Will idle tons better I bet.

Probably custom. Or try out the big tomeis.

 

which cams?

 

I have one of those old FM dual injector rail manifolds laying around if you want to try something silly like that.

 

I looked into this, didn't find anything I could adapt to work. Would have to custom design and build everything. Is that correct?

 

FWIW, they have a worrisome tendency to break the mounts for the aux fuel rail, suspected due to vibration. This can lead to dumping fuel in the engine bay...

As far as cams go, AFAIK the number of 700 horsepower turbo Miata motors out there is approximately zero, so I'm highly dubious that there are any off-the-shelf cam that are appropriate.

--Ian

 

Any links to this? I admittedly haven't heard much about there manifold, or any failures.

Sure. But what kind of specs should I be aiming for given the goal? It seems people stay more conservative with turbo motor cams, but I've heard of folks running wild cams on V8's with turbos as well with good results.

I dunno if to just ask the cam grinder to "make something that will work" or give them some specs to shoot for.

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...57/#post547343

I owned one, the tabs cracked on mine, but not as often as AbeFM's and mine never leaked.

Cam specs are black magic to me, so I dunno. I think you want to find someone who knows what he's doing and then pay him to come up with a set of specs for you. It's likely to be Miata-specific as well.

--Ian

 

Sweet Jesus how did he not burn his car down???? To his credit he did not give up easy. After looking it's obvious that was a bad design causing the failures.

 

I'd start by reading this:

*** Cam Guide *** - LS1TECH

 

I know FM helped with eliminators 5-600hp build. Not sure what cams he had.

You just need 2 of the big ones.

 

Yeah, eliminator was 600+

cool guy, bet he will answer you

I have one of those manifolds as well I will never use.

 

Ted, could you PM or post a few pics of it here? From reading the thread posted about them I would need to redesign the mounting system to hold the fuel rail to be safe at a minimum.