Sorry for lack of pics, I'll try to get those caught up soon. But for an update for the better, I got the new driveshaft today. It wasn't cheap, about 140 more than the estimate when I dropped it off as they had to completely remake it. But the good news is the new one, they used DOM 3" tubing, Spicer weld yolks, Spicer solid body U-joints, their welds look very nice, and.... THEY BALANCED IT!!!!!!!

 

I drove it today and the driveshaft is smooth. The motor is missing when getting around 25-28 PSI boost for some reason, it was doing that a few days ago too. I tried several things, nothing has worked. More dwell, less dwell (8, 6, 3, 2), new plugs @ .030", reflashed MS firmware. I could previously run .040" gap @ 30 something pounds of boost with 6 or 7ms dwell. I think one of the coils is getting weak or something. Anyways going to try dropping the gap down to .020" and see if the problem goes away, after trying everything I'm guessing this will "fix" it for now. If it does, I'll probably need to buy a new coil and figure out which one is weak.

 

very excited. time for man boost again

 

Going higher than last time, gonna max out my 4 bar map sensor very soon. Where do I get one that goes higher?

 

there are aem sensors that read to 50 iirc.
ask some evo guys

*edit: yup
http://aemelectronics.com/files/inst...e%20Sensor.pdf

30-2130-75 reads to 75psi. I think they call it the "Pat gauge" internally

 

At that sort of pressure range you could run any high quality 75PSI pressure sensor like a Honeywell. I think that's what the AEM are anyway.

You could go baller and shoot straight for 100PSI just in case.

 

LOL! I need the "Pat gauge"!

Well I gapped the plugs to .020, didn't fix it, still falls on its face in boost. Feels exactly like it's blowing the spark out. I'm wondering if these plugs are just not hot enough to fire with these cylinder pressures no matter how hot the coils are? They are NGK V-power, resistor plugs, heat range 9. I have some heatrange 8 race plugs (no resistor) I can try to see if that fixes the misfire, but those were too hot for high boost, but I could test with them to see if it makes a difference. Will try that tomorrow, otherwise I'm running out of ideas...

 

I thought the resistor was good for keeping the electrical noise to the ECU down?

 

It's so he can listen to his AM radio stations without the rpm variable buzz.

 

Ok the plugs I ran are already resistorless plugs. Crap. Now I have no idea what to try next. I guess make new custom spark plug wires and see if that has any affect, or start changing coils at ~70 each.

 

Ok good news! I went from 0.020" gap to 0.015" gap and that worked! It pulls clean now. I hope to get to the track on friday.

 

 

New drivetrain took 3 trans brake launches. First one I did was wicked, I filmed second one but I dropped it before it got as much boost so the launch wasn't as good, 3rd one it launched so hard the phone hit my chest when I dropped the trans brake! So far so good. Looks like 3 second 0-60 from tires chirp to 60 on the speedometer.

 

awww yes!!

still no solution to the tach dropping off issue?

 

No, I dunno what causes that. I think it's the ECU or something, but I have googled it and not found an answer, and haven't tried too hard to fix it. Would be nice to fix it though!

Also my neck hurts.

 

I can only get so hard

 

Hot tires, track, more boost, harder launch, it's gonna be wild if nothing breaks on the launch! I'm pulling logs now to see how much boost this was for the launch.

 

 

Some details on the vid from the datalog.

Launched at 3,600 RPM
Launched with 3.3 PSI boost
Shifted from 1st to 2nd at 6,430 RPM
Foot came off gas from 100% to 54% on the launch, this was not intentional...
I lifted on the 1-2 shift as I saw my red light on for AFR lean. I was running in the 13.0 to 13.5 during the entire pull, so power was probably down due to the lean AFRs.
Got up to almost 24 PSI when I shifted from 1st to 2nd. (54% injector duty cycle at top of 1st)
Was at 27 PSI when I lifted off in 2nd. (60% injector duty cycle)

So basically this was a terrible run, launched really soft, shifted way too early, and am only using about 1/2 the power these injectors can do. It's gonna be wild when I get this all fixed and get the power up!

 

Ok good news! I took it to the track, made 5 low-seven second passes launching on the trans brake, and drove it back home without breaking anything! The new diff works awesome at the track, the thing just hooks and goes straight. I did a couple launches with 10-16lbs of boost and it spun, no surprise, but even spinning it didn't hop, and it just went straight. No steering input required at all to keep it going straight. So nice.

Worth noting we had a 20-25mph headwind all night, so that wasn't helping to run good times.

So I told myself I would not turn the boost up, was just going to run it and have fun. Well I managed two passes before I had to turn the boost up! But despite slowly turning the boost up, the car never went any faster. I'm going to review the logs more in depth tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure I know what's going on. From a brief look at the logs, even with a few more pounds boost, the duty cycle and AFRs basically didn't change. I have it about 5lbs more boost or so, which last time dropped my ET by 0.5 seconds, this time it was functionally nothing. I think the problem is the quick spool valve is staying in quick-spool position, and never opening. I actually thought this was happening before going to the track, but the track has shown this is likely what's happening.

Plan is to fix the spool valve stuff, and setup launch control and run the car again next friday. Also go over everything and make sure there are no problems with anything that I didn't notice.

Side note, put 4 buses on a C6 Z06. Wish I had a video of that!

Overall, a success!