yay for red NAs

 

Gave the car a good wash and wax, the paint cleaned up really nice aside from the hardtop that still looks crappy. Also got my coilovers, swaybars, and 10AE front shock brace are all on and I got the windows tinted.

I ordered an ACT streetlite flywheel, which I wanted to do on my old car but didn't want to pull the tranny out just to do it. Once it's here a 6 speed and the ACT xtreme pressure place and performance disk from my old car will go in with it. Also ordered 2 new RPF1's and Kumho XS's so I'll have a full set and can get these crappy tires off the car.

A few pictures from today:

 

Coming along quite nicely.

Just curious: what do you like about a light flywheel on a daily driven car?

 

^ Never had one, but I'll let you know my thoughts once it's installed, I do like the idea of less rotational mass though.

 

*

 

Looking great. Keep us updated! I expect boost by next weekend

 

I hadn't planned on it, but for the right price anything is for sale. Just have to wait on my new wheels and tires to get here. I was hoping they'd be the "hollow spoke" wheels, but looks like they're just plain ole solid spokes.

 

Thanks man. The big holdup is going to be the megasquirt, once it's here the turbo will go on shortly after. I'm at 98,8xx miles now, hoping to be turbo by 100k.

 

Not trying to thread jack but I have an 8.5lb one in my car. I did it before I boosted and then when I swapped my clutch(FM1 level1) I didn't bother switching. The difference is negligible in my opinion. I notice no real difference in drivability.

 

i had the fidanza 8lb and it was noticable over a stock flywheel.

although it did add a little nvh.

 

I have always run the light flywheel. I liked the improvement in lower gears, and never thought it was a problem on the street. Motor sounds healthier too.

 

my stock ECU hated my 8lb flywheel and so did I.

 

Yeah subaru's often tend to flip out with light flywheels and throw random misfire codes too.
I've no personal daily driving experience with a lwfw in a miata, but have driven numerous hondas, subarus, and other cars with them and concluded that they suck for daily driving, which is why I asked the question. I guess it would depend on the clutch (and rest of drivetrain) too, but it was jerky and unpleasant...when trying to drive smoothly I was required to put in extra effort to keep car from not bucking during shifts.

 

I dd with an 8lb flywheel and a 6 puck ACT 400lbs clutch. No problem, even in DC traffic.
...however it does make it very difficult to drive a "normal" light clutch after


949 twin disk is the hardest one to drive. I was told you basically have to chirp wheels every time.

 

I went with a ACT Streetlite which is supposed to be 12lbs, so hopefully it won't be much of a problem.

 

8lbs isnt too light.

see?

(first startup on MAP, not tuned)

it will be nice as 12lb tho.

 

I like to idle at 800rpm and 15:1; about half what you are for both .

but ive only tried it on the stock ecu, and it would stall constantly.

 

like i said, the ECU was not tuned.

It did idle properly after being tuned.

I had just converted the tune there from maf to map... so almost all of the settings were off.

 

ooooohhh I never realized that this is why my car would stall sometimes at 850rpm idle... like it would dip into 500rpm and stall. Now I'm at ~1000rpm and closed loop idle control - idles like a boss, never stalls.

Haven't checked my idle AFR in a long time but it's like 16:1 or something like it.

 

you has MS, you can tune it out easily.