Prepping my '95 for track
#22
Agreed.
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#23
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I am getting ready to do my VVT swap. The 01 engine I have had sitting in my garage had a warped head. The good news is that I just lucked out on a 46k miles 2003 engine for $800 shipped to my door. It is supposed to include the exhaust manifold as well.
Parts I have on hand to go with it:
949 1.8 sport clutch
RB header
Squaretop IM
Full coolant hose set
All engine seals
New motor mounts
NB1 head gasket
New crank pulley
949 coolant reroute kit
Engine harness from an 01 cut off at firewall
NB1 fuel rail
1.6 FPR
ARP head studs
The only things left that I need are:
NB throttle cable
Fuel line adpater
Anything else I am missing?
Parts I have on hand to go with it:
949 1.8 sport clutch
RB header
Squaretop IM
Full coolant hose set
All engine seals
New motor mounts
NB1 head gasket
New crank pulley
949 coolant reroute kit
Engine harness from an 01 cut off at firewall
NB1 fuel rail
1.6 FPR
ARP head studs
The only things left that I need are:
NB throttle cable
Fuel line adpater
Anything else I am missing?
Last edited by asmasm; 01-13-2016 at 01:51 PM.
#24
I would seriously consider running a 1.6 FW clutch combo over the 1.8. Having run both, in a lightweight NA car the 1.6 stuff is much better. Someone will ****** up that SPM clutch quickly if you decide to go 1.6.
I had a buddy tip me off that the euro 98-00 NB FPRs fit much nicer than the flipped 1.6 FPRs. I just put one on my car. Obviously from a functional standpoint its identical, but the fuel line and vacuum line routing is cleaner.
I had a buddy tip me off that the euro 98-00 NB FPRs fit much nicer than the flipped 1.6 FPRs. I just put one on my car. Obviously from a functional standpoint its identical, but the fuel line and vacuum line routing is cleaner.
#25
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Yeah, I would prefer the 1.6 setup but I need to get this finished up before the end of Feb for the first VIR event.
If anyone in the area happens to have a decent 1.6 setup on hand and wants to trade, feel free to PM me.
If anyone in the area happens to have a decent 1.6 setup on hand and wants to trade, feel free to PM me.
#29
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Got my "A Grade" 46k mile 03 engine and it looks like ****. At least it came with an exhaust manifold I can resell. I am going to tear into the engine and see if it looks as bad inside as it does outside:
https://i.imgur.com/266wAHm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/46mYQzh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pFustV4.jpg
Carfax says it was issued a salvage title in 09...
https://i.imgur.com/266wAHm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/46mYQzh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pFustV4.jpg
Carfax says it was issued a salvage title in 09...
#32
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Before I call and bitch at them, how does that work with junkyard engines bought over the phone? Even if they refund me, I guess I am **** out of luck on the $200 shipping?
Also, I have another set of good cams but finding out that this has been sitting for 7 years and seeing the surface rust on the cams, I am betting there is surface rust anything else steel in the head. Who knows about the bottom end.
Also, I have another set of good cams but finding out that this has been sitting for 7 years and seeing the surface rust on the cams, I am betting there is surface rust anything else steel in the head. Who knows about the bottom end.
#35
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If you see a suspiciously cheap 46k mile 03 engine for sale in Virginia, make sure it isn't JM1NB353930310432
#36
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I got my new engine on a stand today. I also chose to get a 50% refund on that last engine and keep it for parts/core for later use.
This one has 64k miles and is in much better shape overall. I drained almost 2 quarts of oil out of it and the plug holes were already filled with oil. The only significant defect I can find so far is a chip on one of the cam lobes. The valve cover bolts were loose when I got it so someone has opened it up. I would guess it got damaged then? I have a spare set of cams in good shape that I can swap in.
I am replacing everything made of rubber on the engine, including valve seals and the crank damper. This is my first time having an engine on a stand and it is way nicer to work on than in the car or on a tire.
This one has 64k miles and is in much better shape overall. I drained almost 2 quarts of oil out of it and the plug holes were already filled with oil. The only significant defect I can find so far is a chip on one of the cam lobes. The valve cover bolts were loose when I got it so someone has opened it up. I would guess it got damaged then? I have a spare set of cams in good shape that I can swap in.
I am replacing everything made of rubber on the engine, including valve seals and the crank damper. This is my first time having an engine on a stand and it is way nicer to work on than in the car or on a tire.
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I just can see how that chip would happen during normal operation, and if it did, I would expect to see other damage or clues on that lobe and bucket. I bet someone dropped their favorite 3/4" drive ratchet on it.
Pull the cam and get a good look at the bucket. If it was run like that, id almost bet it would show a witness mark or something.
Pull the cam and get a good look at the bucket. If it was run like that, id almost bet it would show a witness mark or something.
#39
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Thanks, I will get my own valve tool. This is the correct one, right?
I also learned that if you pour oil down the plug holes and then later turn the engine over by hand, oil will shoot up and narrowly miss your eyes. I was watching the shim for a witness mark while turning the engine over and got a nice surprise. There is no mark on the shim so either it is a casting defect not causing any problems or it is damage that occurred after the engine was last run.
I also learned that if you pour oil down the plug holes and then later turn the engine over by hand, oil will shoot up and narrowly miss your eyes. I was watching the shim for a witness mark while turning the engine over and got a nice surprise. There is no mark on the shim so either it is a casting defect not causing any problems or it is damage that occurred after the engine was last run.
#40
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Thanks, I will get my own valve tool. This is the correct one, right?
Robot Check
I also learned that if you pour oil down the plug holes and then later turn the engine over by hand, oil will shoot up and narrowly miss your eyes. I was watching the shim for a witness mark while turning the engine over and got a nice surprise. There is no mark on the shim so either it is a casting defect not causing any problems or it is damage that occurred after the engine was last run.
Robot Check
I also learned that if you pour oil down the plug holes and then later turn the engine over by hand, oil will shoot up and narrowly miss your eyes. I was watching the shim for a witness mark while turning the engine over and got a nice surprise. There is no mark on the shim so either it is a casting defect not causing any problems or it is damage that occurred after the engine was last run.
KD Hand Tools 41910 All in One Valve Service Kit | eBay