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Old 04-26-2016, 09:16 PM   #261
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Gross.

Ive started serious research of tow vehicles. I have no need for this big of a rig and frankly, diesels scare me.
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Old 04-26-2016, 09:20 PM   #262
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I think I see VVT under there...
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Old 04-26-2016, 09:22 PM   #263
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And nb2 subframe.




Youre welcome. Zach is too.
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Old 04-26-2016, 10:04 PM   #264
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Gross.

Ive started serious research of tow vehicles. I have no need for this big of a rig and frankly, diesels scare me.
I just got really unlucky on this one. It's a unicorn truck though, one of the best you can buy in this price range. Don't be afraid of diesels, they run forever, just research and you'll be fine. F250 with 7.3l ('99.5 to '02) is a great size truck and can tow the **** out of pretty much any single car trailer you can find.

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I think I see VVT under there...
Yes sir.

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And nb2 subframe.




Youre welcome. Zach is too.
Yes thank you, was just about to edit my post and tag you but too late I see. Have a cat, you earned it haha.
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Old 04-26-2016, 10:10 PM   #265
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Just pulled one from a 450.
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Old 04-26-2016, 10:26 PM   #266
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Really didn't mean to sound like a dick expecting recognition. I can see now it totally came out that way lol.

Wtf is a 450?
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Old 04-26-2016, 10:35 PM   #267
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Really didn't mean to sound like a dick expecting recognition. I can see now it totally came out that way lol.

Wtf is a 450?
Oh I didn't read it that way at all. Seriously though thank you. Deal of the century.

450 means F450. The F250/350/450/550 all have the same engine and trans in that narrow year range before the EPA put an end to that engine.
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Old 04-27-2016, 01:00 AM   #268
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Gross.

Ive started serious research of tow vehicles. I have no need for this big of a rig and frankly, diesels scare me.
What makes you scared of diesels?
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Old 04-27-2016, 08:57 AM   #269
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What makes you scared of diesels?
Ignorance, mainly. The perceived astronomical cost of seemingly frequent repairs.
It appears that you either get "a good one" that runs to 250k+ with routine oil changes and stuff or, you get a lemon that was beat on and hot rodded by the previous owners teenage son at every opportunity.

We are currently borrowing my buddy's FIL's 06 F350 6.0 to pull our 28' two car trailer around 4-5 times/year. Its had thousands of dollars thrown at "bulletproofing" and fire rings, studs, etc. I suppose I'm unsure if that's a basic requirement for a work truck that's actually gonna get worked or not.
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Old 04-27-2016, 09:08 AM   #270
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"Bulletproofing" is generally only applicable to the 6.0L Powerstrokes. That's mostly because of a design flaw in the EGR and head gaskets from Ford.
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:48 PM   #271
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7.3 Fords and 5.7 Dodges are reasonably 'bulletproof' stock. The 6.0 Ford probably has the worst reputation for durability. Early auto transmissions could be problematic, but with regular maintenance (which is a little more expensive than a gasser) the trucks are pretty reliable. You do want to stay away from trucks that were modded and hot rodded, but there's plenty of stock trucks out there. Each brand has its own quirks, and minor flaws, all easy info to find with a little forum research. Be aware that the diesel truck forums are mostly a **** show of Brodozing, coal rolling stupidity, but there is info there if you sift through it.
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Old 04-27-2016, 01:36 PM   #272
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Originally Posted by doward View Post
Ignorance, mainly. The perceived astronomical cost of seemingly frequent repairs.
It appears that you either get "a good one" that runs to 250k+ with routine oil changes and stuff or, you get a lemon that was beat on and hot rodded by the previous owners teenage son at every opportunity.

We are currently borrowing my buddy's FIL's 06 F350 6.0 to pull our 28' two car trailer around 4-5 times/year. Its had thousands of dollars thrown at "bulletproofing" and fire rings, studs, etc. I suppose I'm unsure if that's a basic requirement for a work truck that's actually gonna get worked or not.
Ah yeah that makes sense. My buddy had an '84 Mercedes 300SD turbo diesel and that thing was a ******* tank but i'm sure each car is different.
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Old 04-27-2016, 04:03 PM   #273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doward View Post
Ignorance, mainly. The perceived astronomical cost of seemingly frequent repairs.
It appears that you either get "a good one" that runs to 250k+ with routine oil changes and stuff or, you get a lemon that was beat on and hot rodded by the previous owners teenage son at every opportunity.

We are currently borrowing my buddy's FIL's 06 F350 6.0 to pull our 28' two car trailer around 4-5 times/year. Its had thousands of dollars thrown at "bulletproofing" and fire rings, studs, etc. I suppose I'm unsure if that's a basic requirement for a work truck that's actually gonna get worked or not.
The term "bulletproofing" is specific to the Ford 6.0 engine because it sucks. The issue is with the headstuds, there's less of them per cylinder and they stretch easily so lifted heads are common especially if you turn up the boost. The EGR system is also plagued with issues and needs to be deleted in order for that engine to survive as well.

Like Roda said, the 7.3l Ford or 5.7l/5.9l Cummins are workhorses. Plenty of bone stock 7.3's make it to 300k+ miles. With some that are well taken care of and have good reliability mods that make it run cooler, they're making it to 500k+. Maintenance costs are higher but the fuel savings usually evens out. I used to get 8MPG towing my tiny open trailer with the '07 F150 with 5.4l V8 at 70MPH. Now towing the 42' enclosed trailer it looks like I'm getting about 11MPG with the F350 towing at the same speed. Plus diesel is like 30 cents a gallon cheaper than 87 octane here right now.
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Old 04-27-2016, 05:25 PM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S View Post
"Bulletproofing" is generally only applicable to the 6.0L Powerstrokes. That's mostly because of a design flaw in the EGR and head gaskets from Ford.
6.4's need it too.

You can make crazy power on a 6.4 with just a tune. They are ballsy motors.
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:39 PM   #275
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The term "bulletproofing" is specific to the Ford 6.0 engine because it sucks. The issue is with the headstuds, there's less of them per cylinder and they stretch easily so lifted heads are common especially if you turn up the boost.
That actually isn't it at all. The EGR cooler fails from silicates (that stuff coolant is full of) breaking down the cooler internals, causing it to leak. When it leaks, steam/water enters the cylinders, and that is what causes the head to lift. No engine can be built stout enough to compress water. That is why in earlier cases people would rebuild the whole long block, neglecting the EGR cooler issue, and then before they know it, their brand new re-built block lifts its heads.

The key to 6.0 success:
-EGR delete
-Properly filtering coolant and fuel (we added secondary filters on both systems)
-Change coolant regularly (possibly slightly before a normal interval)
-Replace all those shitty factory couplers/clamps with Riff-Raff.
-Scan-gauge to monitor "deltas" (Delta: water temp and oil temp)

And drive it often to keep the variable vanes in the turbine from getting rusty/sticky. Sticky vanes will cause it to either build no boost or more than ALLTHEBOOST, neither is desirable.

They do tow like Banshees though
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:43 PM   #276
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And drive it all out often to keep the variable vanes in the turbine from getting rusty/sticky. Sticky vanes will cause it to either build no boost or more than ALLTHEBOOST, neither is desirable.
FTFY. Driving it like a grandma all the time wont help.
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Old 04-29-2016, 03:11 PM   #277
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All this diesel talk is confusing me.
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Old 06-08-2016, 01:39 PM   #278
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So I stayed up wayyy too late last night reading your whole build, lol. Had to find your posts on the swap to stand alone and then E85. If I can net 65% of the same gains you saw(10hp) with ecu/e85 I'll be ******* ecstatic. I'll have to ditch my RB header in place of an OEM 99-00 turd manifold, custom down-pipe, and I'll redo my whole exhaust while I'm at it. Stock TB, stock manifold(or maybe square-top), and keep my long routed intake. Pray for 140rwhp with my un-opened BP4W

For E85, is it really that simple as adding the flex sensor on the return line and replacing rubber lines with compatible E85 line? Should I be concerned about my stock fuel pump taking a **** after running e85 for a bit?

Awesome find on the truck! My dad just picked up a 2000 7.3 F250 for dirt cheap(508k miles lolol) engine has been swapped with 160k, trans has been swapped and then rebuilt with 30k. Hope it turns out to be a good tow pig for a good while before I can get a truck for myself. My dad is currently working his way to TT actually, guna do a team entry like you've done
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Old 06-08-2016, 02:21 PM   #279
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If you don't get at least 10HP from ECU and E85 I would be surprised. But if you're going back to factory header then it might be close, only way to know is to try it.

I'm not even using the flex sensor yet, I didn't have time to wire it in and had it tuned only for e85. But yeah I replaced all the lines with Gates Barricade and switched to a Wix fuel filter. Other stuff I did that you can't, since you're on a points build, is 5x Racing adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Injector Dynamics ID1000's, and Walbro 190 high pressure fuel pump kit. I would probably suggest replacing the pump with another OEM equivalent unit and keep the stock one as a spare, and see about at least replacing the submersible line and fuel sock with something that might be more e85 friendly.


Updates:

Got the truck back together and running. Also added some preload to the wastegate actuator (there was no preload, didn't realize this before installing) and now it's hitting 18PSI on the stock tune and 22PSI on the +45whp towing tune. I also replaced the headers to turbo up pipes, I didn't think they were leaking but when I took them out, one of the pipes that is supposed to be clamped into the upper Y pipe just fell out. So that was a massive pre-turbo exhaust leak that is now fixed.

Also I have two night races coming up soon, I'm pretty pumped for this. It's on my least favorite track (WHP West Course) but whatever. In race group there will be no headlights allowed because they are going to bring in light towers to completely light the entire track.

And bonus, there is this bonus race they are going to run in an Australian Pursuit format. I've never done one before but it sounds like it'll get really interesting. Basically your best lap time from the normal race, sets a handicap. The faster the car, the more of a delay you have to be released (everyone starts from pit lane), and everyone is going for the overall win.

Small explanation:

The Australian Pursuit is essentially a handicap race that allows each car to compete for the overall win regardless of their normal class. Everyone starts from the pits. Grid is prepared by taking the sprint race lap times and inverting the field. The slowest car is released first. The fastest car is released last. When each car is released is based upon the number of laps planned for the Australian Pursuit and the difference in qualifying times of the participating cars. For example: if a Miata qualifies for its regular sprint race at 1:30 seconds and a Corvette qualifies at a 1:20 there is a 10 second difference. In a 12 lap Australian Pursuit race the Corvette would start 120 seconds after the Miata. All other cars would be released in a similar fashion from the pits. Theoretically, all cars should be on the lead lap at the end of the race, each with a shot at the overall win.
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Old 06-08-2016, 02:41 PM   #280
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That is going to be hilarious to watch. Ill be amazed if no one swaps paint.
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