RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread - Page 24 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Build Threads Building a motor? Post the progress here.

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-25-2015, 10:53 AM   #461
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

Brake leak resolved. It was the banjo fitting on the right rear caliper. I actually bought a new caliper, thinking that was the problem, but it still leaked so I took off the banjo fitting, filed down both sides a bit with a jeweler's file, applied to "hydraulic-spec" loctite and voila...no more leak.
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2015, 11:14 AM   #462
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

A bit of a retrospective here ('cause I'm feeling nostalgic today).

This has been quite a journey. I started out with this (hit by a Taurus in 2012);



Added a bit of this (a shell, bought in 2013);



Went from this;



To this;



But managed to do this;



Which required a new one of these;



Then I found this;



So I got a new one of these;



Which got me to here;



And then to here;



Still a long way to go, but it's been an adventure...
Attached Thumbnails
RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-imag0026_3a50f7c2ce008529f3bd5e7c861063198cf2f387.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-imag0278_ea4ae6044c48cf658c0b9ca10e3340234c65f60b.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-20140715_191927_0e68311e30e888527a59c7f1b4a8b06621af1c2c.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-20140727_140523_83cb76ae91e5f47d1c46ba16867500963064d5cb.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-20140903_205546_5ee338b74bcd97e80b5446fbbb0eb2d360745d1d.jpg  

RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-20140908_183839_6f482a1d9a9588a37d201f0e87836608d42adc72.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-20150110_174514_236154c37a2468afc375be1c3a39d95f3132135e.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-20150211_063925_08ce9ef38e6d6720bdcde7c14d21893d723515f7.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-15_2_1__e401ee19c7246bb90654994ea330bdc64985b5cf.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-15_2_2__d12bdeda06e2e68ac54b22c11331cb787e78daec.jpg  

rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2015, 12:13 PM   #463
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: grayson, ga
Posts: 166
Total Cats: 9
Default

one thing leads to another....
portabull is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2015, 09:24 AM   #464
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

I've been noticing that I'm getting low oil pressure on hard stops. A bit of research indicates that this is "normal" for the BP engines and that baffling in the oil pan helps (now I see this after having the engine out twice now!).

No way I'm taking the engine out AGAIN anytime soon, so I'm looking at an Accusump unit to deal with it until I can do better. This'll push back other mods 'cause I refuse to have any more oil-related issues.
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2015, 09:36 AM   #465
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

Installed FD alternator thinking that it would solve all of my "alternator doesn't start charging until RPM's go above 2500" problems.

Well it didn't! The new alt doesn't kick in until the first time that RPM's go north of 4300 RPM!! I think that I have a "systemic" wiring problem.

Some pawing around on the RX7 forum (post #12) turned up this little nugget;
Quote:
And last but not least the one that had me thinking like you. The L terminal which is where the excite wire connects. Yes it does power the idiot light. It does this because current flows if there is a substantial difference between the system or batt voltage and the alternator charge voltage. This terminal/wire must be connected because it is in effect what "turns on" the alternator. BUT and this is a big but. YOU CANNOT JUST CONNECT IT TO A HOT WIRE OR THE BATTERY. It must have resistance or you will destroy the alternator voltage regulator and the alternator will need to be rebuilt because it will not regulate voltage, the voltage will just rise with RPM up to 16-17 volts. I don't have to tell you that is bad. SO, the factory dash has two parallel sources of internal resistance. One is a light, the other is a standard resistor. You CAN NOT skip the resistor because if you just use a light and the bulb burns out, guess what, your alternator shuts off. So, you have to wire this terminal back to +12v (again no relays upstream for this one too) but you must also put a roughly 120-150 ohm resistor on this wire. Up to you if you want a charge light in parallel. It appears in some cases (3rd gen rx-7 and other cars) the factory dashes just use multiple idiot lights as the redundant sources of resistance for this. So if one bulb burns out the alternator does not just quit working. If you do put a charge light in parallel you need to put a diode in also or the light will be on all the time. The diode should only allow current flow TO the alternator. It needs to BLOCK current flow back from the L terminal.
So, it's off to the electronics supply house to get some resistors and then to the garage to get this crap sorted out once and for all.
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2015, 12:24 PM   #466
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

Fixed!

I found out that connecting the grey wire from the alternator (the "L terminal" on the RX7 alt) to the dash light does nothing. In effect, the alt doesn't "turn on" until it good and well decides to (i.e. it "self excites") - with the RX7 alt this happened at 4300 RPM.

Solution: connected the grey wire to a 12v source through a diode (to prevent battery drain down overnight) and a 4.6K resistor and, voila! - the voltage goes to 14.2v on start up and stays there. Profit.

Anyone want a "lightly used" NA alternator (I'm keeping the RX7 one)? It's only been on the car since the last rebuild (about 4.5 months). I'm sending back the old NB alternator to Rock Auto as a core so I don't really NEED the NA alternator. Or maybe I'll just keep it as a spare.
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2016, 12:14 PM   #467
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

Latest work...

Going to create a box containing battery "lugs" that is accessible from the outside; a) because I don't have a cig lighter plug on the inside any more, and b) so I can quickly connect up my compressor when I'm at the track.

The box itself will be a Radio Shack project box that will be cut to fit the contour of the rear fender, just above the battery (WARNING; fuzzy cell phone pictures follow)

Here's the trimmed box with the lugs just laying inside;



This is a really bad pic of where the box will go inside the trunk - this is directly above the battery;



And here is what will become the cover (it's a section from the same part of the fender from my "donor" car;



I'll cut a square hole in the side of the car where the box will be located. The project box will be mounted inside the trunk and sealed to prevent water incursion. I'll attach the "cover" with a piano hinge at the top, and seal it with rubber weatherproofing to keep water from getting under it and secure it with slide latches. The rubber gasket - which should be in compression - between the body and the cover (the weatherproofing) should keep water out of the box.

Two holes in the back of the box (inside the trunk) for the lugs, and then some cables to the battery and, voila - external access to battery power without having to open the trunk.

It might be excessive, but I like it.
Attached Thumbnails
RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-extconn_6d4cfee65c42d2678e9c554c805ece7bb2de8838.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-trunk_73cc8bb9b02b4c52947e42e97dda5b81c79985b9.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-cover_aaa864bb77f3f4f02d02d058f43532c7d5e5d6fc.jpg  
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2016, 12:23 PM   #468
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

FWIW - I just ticked over 300K miles this past weekend.


Two other projects:
1) Install an auxiliary battery; cold starts these days are a bitch, and cold cranking and warmup is enough to pull the existing battery down to 11V. So I'm going to install a second, "helper" battery (a small motorcycle battery) that will assist with the cold start but will be isolated during normal operation. I'm going to use a "Battery Doctor" to provide the battery isolation - it incorporates a switch that will connect it in parallel to the main battery then automatically disconnect it when it senses greater than 13V. A small weight penalty to achieve better cold starts.

2) Some new 15x9 Advanti wheels in preparation for new track-dedicated tires. I'm leaning heavily towards the 245 RC1's for the new shoes.

Attached Thumbnails
RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-wheel_5c83ab217141dbe46e8257cc85d430ab24f021c2.jpg  

Last edited by rwyatt365; 01-14-2016 at 02:15 PM.
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 01:47 PM   #469
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default Second battery installation

Starting point...remove regular battery - I noticed that there was about 1/4 inch of water in the bottom of the box so I cleared that out and found this;



Rusty as hell, so I drilled a couple of drain holes, cleaned it out, painted it with "rust killer" and then topped that with some undercoating. The result ain't pretty but hopefully it won't rust any further;



Next, I cut up a plastic battery box from Summit (it was about 1/2 inch too small). I cut off the front, then cut it in half, epoxied in the front to the back with about a 1/2 inch gap.

Back side;



Front side;



Test fit in the car w/ the motorcycle battery;



The red straps will secure the battery in the new box. They're made from nylon straps and "Parachute buckles" from the fabric shop.
Attached Thumbnails
RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-battboxrusty_7dfe2efda393d27f11d2c0a1b4d5411299acedb9.png   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-battboxpainted_74b6d345304dcf38aaa97075e7eae1660f715e60.png   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-caseback_bb264d31d4306ef49914a6a79cb3bb2c6c5574c3.png   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-casefront_9776608ef2f107f0defb2296e6642b09ddf69f38.png   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-battdetail_eb2ca150a2996c4c8e1192106d6941efcf30b1a9.png  

rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 02:00 PM   #470
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

Part 2...

I used a WirthCo "
Battery Doctor Battery Doctor
" to isolate the second battery from the stock one. I chose this one because it incorporates a switch that will put both batteries in parallel and then isolate them when it senses greater than 13V on the circuit. This way I can push the switch on cold mornings and have both batteries run the starter and then when the alternator kicks in, both batteries get charged. When everything shuts off, the two batteries are isolated form each other.

I mounted the isolator on the the rear package shelf;



I replaced the "hot" connector for the stock battery with one that has places for two wires;



Next, came wiring up the second battery. FYI - I used 2-gauge wire for all battery connections;



Then wired up the isolator;



(yes, there is no carpet on the rear shelf and the cover to the fuel pump is not there)

All that was left was to put covers on the terminals so that stuff in the trunk won't inadvertently short anything out (yes, there are no pressboard covers in the trunk either). Finally, connect everything up and test it out.

Works like a champ! I'm happy.
Attached Thumbnails
RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-parcelshelf_c00d4dc9a213f5a47a1f6f136cc7e5c1253ad3b4.png   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-batterm_10217a16328cb64d3901c3d6fbf02737c2e085e3.png   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-2ndbatmounted_52f11dad011741c117e8db6799cf25f1a89d0fce.png   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-intbatdoc_62589608f037cea375e51f5c39bcc94a41c45dda.png  
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2016, 09:35 AM   #471
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

Latest acquisition;



I'll be figuring out mounting this weekend, then plumbing.
Attached Thumbnails
RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-accusump_7d108d84fe0e30f2ec76af60d59965d5073b7a33.jpg  
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2016, 08:10 PM   #472
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
 
patsmx5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 8,797
Total Cats: 248
Default

I have a 2qt accusump on my car, in the engine bay down low. Pics in my build thread. It was a tight fit, but it fit.

EDIT:

Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post






patsmx5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2016, 10:02 AM   #473
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

Nice thought Pat, but that's where my oil cooler lives;



MAYBE I can squeeze it in front of the cooler (just behind the IC) on the plate where the oil cooler is mounted. Second choice is vertically next to the radiator. Other than that, I think I'm gonna be stuck with it snuggled next to the PPF in the trans tunnel (somehow). Worst case is all the way in the trunk - but that's a LOT of hose to have to manage (and buy).
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2016, 02:02 PM   #474
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

So, I was doing some checking for possible mounting locations for the Accusump and came up with this idea;



...in the engine bay on a custom mount.




Checking for hood clearance...



Cardboard template laid out.

I'm planning on making this out of 1/16-in sheet steel with some lightening holes cut out, and some interior reinforcing struts to prevent lozenging. It'll use some existing, unused bolt holes to attach, and I can mount the check valve (haven't decided on manual, or electric) where the washer bottle used to be and plumb the feed line into the oil cooler lines.

Fabrication commences
Attached Thumbnails
RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-20160206_121721_f3f8644f8c1d841932dccddf656bafea73d45b2d.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-20160206_121700_7af31e87ed3ed2ac16530267cc785cbb86df8292.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-20160206_121805_fe7a0cec35931e684f8d399d7bdfe8abf7766b45.jpg  
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2016, 02:08 PM   #475
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
 
patsmx5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 8,797
Total Cats: 248
Default

Nice, we have our oil cooler and accusump positions reversed!

Attached Thumbnails
RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-20150316_011506_zpsysm8vire.jpg  
patsmx5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2016, 07:34 AM   #476
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

Accusump mount fabbed up last weekend;



...with the Accusump body installed;



Next comes plumbing it into the oil system.
Attached Thumbnails
RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-20160213_161137_c1a92ff23fde47e85267261d1a4aa23c3ac4e78e.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-20160217_145106_90900744eb43c2d349fad514df76b3841e658110.jpg  
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2016, 11:23 PM   #477
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

NOW it looks like my CAS is crapping out. Got a few #32 lost sync reasons on the way home from work; steady-state cruise, 70MPH on the freeway. I'm thinking it was a heat problem - got a spare (whew).
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016, 08:48 AM   #478
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

CAS replaced

Parts to complete the Accusump install ordered (the manual valve is on backorder, should be in stock this weekend)

Xidas on the way - should be here Saturday;


Last edited by rwyatt365; 02-24-2016 at 10:04 AM.
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2016, 10:46 AM   #479
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

Thy're heeeeere!



Had a minor (self-induced) installation glitch yesterday, but going home afterwards I was wondering if I was in the same car!! I heard stories about people saying, "Bumps that jarred my teeth before were barely noticeable", but I was skeptical. Now...not so much.

These things are f**king amazing! Doing a "Test 'n Tune" this Saturday so I'll get a chance to get them dialed in (kinda) - at least I can "get to know" them and how they feel under AX conditions.

Next step; 245 VR-1's!!
Attached Thumbnails
RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-16_1_32d3ec664277af6883322c6b72e1b4c86e81d683.jpg   RWyatt's "It's takin forever" Build Thread-80-16_1_a6ea76c7ff58e75133d2c4e4dcab64540b8ddc38.jpg  
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2016, 12:18 PM   #480
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 728
Total Cats: 48
Default

Minor update;
- Went to a Test 'N Tune session on Saturday and the car worked spectacularly! Even with the 205 BFG Comp 2's on, I was able to get around the course in good fashion. I wasn't the fastest, but I was far from the slowest. The point was to see what effect different settings would have on the handling. These Xida's are impressive - can't say enough good things.

- I didn't do the AX on Sunday. Instead, I began the arduous process of preparing for the annual drudge-work of getting the OBD2 check so I can get re-registered. That means swapping out the bigger injectors for the stockers, wiring the wastegate open and putting the stock ECU back in charge. It also means slogging around in NA mode (OH, the humanity!).

- The biggest issue is finding and fixing all the stupid little s**t that causes the ECU to throw codes (and thus, not pass the check). So far, I forgot to reconnect the stock MAP sensor (stupid), and this morning it's reporting that it sees no activity on the stock O2 sensor. That means putting it up on a lift and checking the wiring (that sits dormant for 50 weeks a year). After that gets fixed - we'll see what else crops up. Last year there was a problem with the VSS signal that took several weeks to track down and fix. Three more years and I won't have to deal with this foolishness any more.
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OTS Bilstein to motorsports ASN conversion stoves Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 5 04-21-2016 04:00 PM
WTB MP62 (Hotside) (NB2) Rick02R WTB 3 01-03-2016 08:18 PM
Going back to stock. Need some 1.6 parts. Trent WTB 2 10-01-2015 01:15 PM
Leaky Wilwoods mx592 Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 1 10-01-2015 01:45 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:56 AM.