rwyatt365

Thanks.

I'm pretty sure that if I swap the brackets to orient the prop-valve so that it meets the hardlines on the body then I can make new hardlines that'll go from the MC to the prop-valve. I'm hoping that won't be too difficult.

I've used pre-made brake lines on some OTM's in the past, but those were relatively long runs with gentle bends that could be done by hand. This'll be the first time making short, intricate bends AND making flared ends.

It's gonna be interesting...

rwyatt365

The dash is (almost) in;


I re-did the wiring on the terminal blocks (thanks Ryan) and test-fitted the connections to the MS; They're a bit tighter than I hoped, but not too bad - infinitely better access than the stock location. Also, I got a new Y-cable for the tablet install. The first one I got would power the tablet, but not the USB accessories. This new one seems to work on a bench-test.

I've got a couple of connectors to install to make dash and center console removal easier to do. Once I get that done, I can power everything up and make sure nothing melts! PS - in case you're interested, the spot where the airbag disable key was is now occupied by;
- A potentiometer for adjusting the intermittent wiper delay
- A button for the pushbutton start
- A switch for manually activating the fans (wired in parallel - no AC, so might as well use that other fan)
Also, the hazard button has been relocated from between the eyeball vents into the spot where the cigarette lighter used to live. In it's place between the vents is a low oil pressure warning light.

The next hurdle is to finish the "master cylinder shuffle". I've got the old bracket on the new MC and swapped over the prop-valve. Now I have to make the new lines between the two, then it should slide right in and - voila! - brakes.

Sounds too good to be true...

rwyatt365

OK, new lines from the master cylinder to the prop valve made. They're not pretty, but they should get the job done.





I've got one more line to make, from the bottom of the MC to the left-front wheel.

rwyatt365

Question: Would it be feasible to use a (appropriately sized) solenoid to activate the VICS butterflys via a MSPNP2?

Background: I think I noted elsewhere in this thread that I've broken off the nipples on both the VICS solenoid and the vacuum actuator. Because of that I have to replace the whole kit'n kaboodle. Unfortunately, I just can't seem to source these two things all by themselves (unless I mortgage my house to get one from the dealership). "Everyone" is more than happy to sell me a VICS IM, but I'm not interested in that - I just want the solenoid and the actuator.

Then I got the "bright idea"; why not chuck all of the vacuum-operated mechanism and replace it with a simple solenoid-operated mechanism that's tied to the EBC output?

This seems like unnecessary complexity to replace a completely satisfactory OEM solution, so why bother? Because engineer (why do something simple when you can over-think a new, untried solution)!

Talk me back into rationality...

leboeuf

iTrader: (1)

A solenoid would be fine, but you'll need to make the "close" state sprung somehow to keep pressure on the butterflies. I chatted with some auto oriented engineers about why they like pneumatic stuff so much and their answer was that they were cheap, reliable and provided tunable closing pressure.

rwyatt365

Since it's so damned cold outside these days I've been hibernating at home, waiting for the "Arctic Vortex - 2015 Edition" to end. So I've gathered up the IM, EM and turbo to do a little spit-shine 'n polish until I can go outside without freezing my a$$ off.

I've also made a list of stuff I have to do B4 I can get back on the road again (in no particular order);
1. Finish the AN lines for the heater core and turbo water and oil lines.
2. Finish the brake lines between the MC and prop valve, and to the left-front caliper (need a flaring tool to get that done 100%).
3. Do the full-return fuel system mod (I've got the NA FPR, just have to re-do the lines at the back.
4. Replace the neutral safety switch on the trans (waiting for the right replacement from The Parts Group).
5. Oh yeah...install the engine!
6. Mount the front fenders, the doors, trunk lid, hood and bumper cover.
7. Swap the rollbar over.
8. Mount the front sway bar (not running a rear bar).
9. New street tires (my BFG Comp2's are toast).
10. Replace the vacuum VICS actuator with an electric solenoid.
11. Install the seats.
12. Bleed the brakes.
13. Fill up the fluids.
14. Turn key!

There are probably a million minor steps in there, but "Here's to optimism!"

rwyatt365

So...I was taking my turbo apart so that I could begin porting the IWG and I found this when I opened the turbine housing;


Damn, damn, damnitall, damn!!

Now I have to replace the turbine wheel, and all I can find is this. Either that, or send the whole thing out to be rebuilt.

Damn, damn, damnitall, damn!

Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

Yuk, that sucks man. Any ideas what caused the damage?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I feel like I've seen that failure mode before but can't find pics right now. Is it a Garrett? Might call around and see if its worth doing the CHRA Exchange. Sorry man :(

that7guy

iTrader: (1)

Yikes, bummer to see that!

rwyatt365

Yeah, it's a GT2560R and I'm pretty bummed out about it.

As to why it's in the shape that it's in...I'm not sure. This is the turbine wheel, and stuff I've seen online suggests that it's impact damage but I can't recall any time when something got through the combustion chamber and into the turbo. I haven't seen any damage to piston crowns, or valves to indicate something like that. SO it's a mystery to me.

I ran this turbo with a DooDoo box for over a year, and tried to stay under 8psi during that time. I only had '01 purple-top injectors and not any way to log AFR (just a WBO2 and a AFR gauge, so it would have been possible for short duration too-lean conditions to escape detection). Would it have been possible to "burn" the turbine blades some kind of way and show up like this?

It's a damned shame because the car was pulling strong before the bearings spun and I was looking forward to getting back in the saddle.

Plans now are to replace the Garrett with a Chinacharger (I'm cash-limited right now, so I can't realistically go for a "genuine" Garrett, and a CHRA repair/swap/purchase is more than a journal-bearing Chinacharger). I'm looking around for a 2871-clone (that way I can keep the FM log manifold with the T25 base), use that as an interim solution and then think about running with the "Big Dogs" when my cash-flow situation is in better shape.

Right now, I'm researching options. I want to make sure that the turbo I get has water cooling (want to keep those journal bearings happy), and that I get a size (AR) that has "reasonable" spool characteristics and give me a nice little power bump from the 2560.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I can see that, plenty of people running chinachargers out there.

As for the CHRA exchange, the prices are not the same from the various Garrett vendors so don't believe what you see online. When I did the core exchange on my damaged 2560 I saved $75 by calling around.

rwyatt365

Now that I think about it, I remember when I did the first engine rebuild, there was a spark plug with a broken insulator. I had no idea how long the engine had run like that and I thought at the time I had escaped without serious harm.

I'm thinking that the bit or insulator was "soft" enough to bounce in the cylinder without serious damage but turned into "grit" in the turbine housing and damage the wheel.

That's my story am I'm sticking with it!

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I'm not sure I would call a ceramic spark plug insulator "soft" unless I was comparing it to something like, oh I don't know, diamonds

Is the turbo actually giving you any problems? You could just say "fuckit!" and run it. Of course if it comes apart and you ingest the turbine wheel, there will be much sad panda action in this thread.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Would be a waste to try to run it. However, only the Cat Conv would be in danger of injesting the turbine wheel… compressor pieces on the other hand.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I meant compressor, typed turbine. Derp

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

I guess my misspelling of the word "injesting" was a Fruedian slip, as I was only poking. We are in total agreement.

Roger, I hope you find an economic replacement.

rwyatt365

My first thought was do do what EO2K suggested and just run the damned thing until it blows up. But since I'm still working with a disassembled car, why not just "do the right thing" and lay the 2560 to rest. I know that, if I just put it back together as-is, I'd be paranoid about every little noise I heard.

rwyatt365

Ok, turbo-guru's. After "extensive" research (as in, I spent half the day yesterday at work looking at Ebay, and other places) I've settled on this turbo as my replacement for my sick 2560.

For those that don't want to follow the link, it's from CX Racing. It's a T28 clone with journal bearings, IWG and is oil/water cooled. It uses the T25 flange, so it should be compatible with my FM log manifold. It has a .86 A/R turbine so I would expect more "ultimate" power than the 2560, but somewhat more laggy.

CX has a T28 clone with a (much) smaller turbine A/R that would probably spool quicker, but I'm thinking it wouldn't be that much different than the 2560. And various Ebay vendors have "mid-range" 2871 clones that have A/R's in the .56 to .62 range, but when I Google those vendors I get some real horror stories.

Anyone have opinions on my potential choice, or other options (as if I have to ask)?

curly

iTrader: (25)

That's the one Blaen99 and I both tried. I managed to get mine shipped directly to Abe, and then managed to get it returned for only a loss of shipping.

The DP flange was cast custom to that turbo, with no provisions for a divorced wastegate tube. Abe and I both searched extensively for an off the shelf piece, nothing came up. Ended up with my CL SR20 that I rebuilt.

Dunno if they're different now, but yeah, that wastegate bracket and it's size is pretty good.