You should roll through some time. I legit live in the most hilarious part of town. It's so scary that all my neighbors are fellow med students or nursing students, or work in some capacity at the hospital. Hell, I can walk to the trader joes nearby.

Trader joes... now that's some scary shit!

I hate you all for making me take this engine apart again. I just want to drive the fucking car but I am going to get some copper scrubbers because you've awoken my inner paranoia.

That's the spirit!

I will never join you in eternal limbo Troy! NEVER!

I replaced the steel wool with copper scrubbers today.

Attachment 178680

I will admit that I was wrong about the steel wool. The main chunk came out all as one in each chamber. However, there was steel "dust" and small particulates left behind. These pieces could have easily been carried by oil back into the head if I had driven the car. Had to make sure I cleaned it out really well. Would have taken the car out for a drive but I needed to finish building my 4 tap keezer for my new keg setup. My chocolate mint stout is ready to be transferred to a keg.

Yum, that sounds so good!

Wait, chocolate mint stout?

You've been holding out on us!

I got my co2 tank filled yesterday so I could finish assembling and testing this beauty.


Attachment 178722

The chocolate mint stout will be her maiden voyage.

I see what you did there. It's like a bait for us to come work on the car, isn't it Ryan?

If we can't drive our cars cause of the lovely snow/salt combo, you can't either. This is payback for your nice weather :giggle:

So I've driven the car a few times since my last post. The intercooler pipes do not pop off under boost now. However, I'm still getting oil out of the compressor housing side of the turbo that is making its way into my intake piping. It didn't immediately present itself but was fairly obvious after the last time I drove the car. I'm starting to get very frustrated with this issue as I've dramatically increased the size of the oil drain and crankcase venting passages to no avail. Southeast Power Systems told me the turbo was fine but I'm starting to think the turbo has to be at fault here. I cannot for the life of me figure out why else it would be pushing oil past the seals if it has adequate drainage and the crankcase pressure isn't over the top. I can also confirm that the drain line is not so low in the oil pan. Does anyone have any insights here?

I'm hoping for a simple solution. And a cheap solution.

Do you have a turbo inlet crankcase vent?

I do not. I am currently running 2x 5/8" hoses to my catch can which vents to atmosphere. I read the catch can thread like 5 times. There still seems to be quite a bit of debate about whether running the vent to the turbo intake, intake manifold, or exhaust is necessary or even a good idea. I understand why someone would want to do this but many people don't do it. I find it very hard to believe that would be the reason for my turbo gushing oil as no one else seems to have this problem. Sixshooter runs an identical setup without issue.

That should be plenty, unless you have some other weird source of crank case pressure. Does your dipstick ever pop out? Any way to get a pressure sensor on your crank case.

My dipstick never moves. Not sure where I would put a sensor to be honest.

If you have a shop vac, try pulling the oil cap, pressurize the engine with the blower end of the shop vac, and confirm your catch can exit hose/filter is dumping a lot of air. If it is, you know that entire system is not restrictive and thus not your problem. If there's hardly anything coming out then it's probably restrictive which it shouldn't be.

If not restrictive on testing, my guess is bad turbo seals too.

Wouldn't you want a filter somewhere in that test?

Or pull vacuum at the filler hole and then check vacuum at the catch can ports.

The car doesn't have any blow-by at all at idle when you remove the 710 cap. A car with blow-by makes blow-by at idle as well as under load, in my experience.



I think he did a compression test earlier in the diagnosis of this issue with even numbers across the cylinders, which should show a cracked ring or similar issues.