This would work for you too. It's what I used to mate up to my - 10AN drain line.
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...lange%2C+-10AN

Thanks Ryan_G for posting that up. I'm not having issues yet, but it was something I thought about while assembling my 6258.

I've got an aluminum Vibrant one and a steel Russel one, both 2 bolt, both sitting on my workbench. Now I just need to rip everything apart and install one of them.

probably would have resulted in a huge amount of bitching. Of course the stupid straight metric threads with next to no clearance and no good banjo solution offered off the shelf didnt get any backlash so they probably could have gotten away with it.

For the unaware, Southeast Power Systems is a Borg Warner Master Distributor and Mike Franke, the head BW guru was involved in some aspects of the EFR development. We are fortunate to have them here to offer the guidance. They sent some videos of them actually testing the unit and comparing certain aspects to benchmarks. I was hoping Ryan would upload them but he is pretty busy these days. SPS was very thorough, made videos, graphics, and didn't charge a dime. Talk about a class act. BTW, you can buy your BW turbos directly through them or other sources and they will still be this good to you.

Small update with pics.

Sixshooter gave me some nice heat shield material from the junkyard that was double layered with an air gap and then he proceeded to make me an engine bay heatshield with it. It's not pretty but it will be very functional. I just need to finish the L-brackets to secure it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1445400247

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1445400247

Here is a really shitty picture of the ebay exhaust shield. It was super easy to put on and should do a great job and protecting the transmission from excess heat.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1445400247

I also finished wiring up the GM coils and modifying stock 99-00 wires to fit both the coils and the VVT valve cover. They are not mounted yet and look like a mess but they spark strong and the car fired right up on the first try. Dwell is set to 4.5ms.

http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...sht1ecnpi.jpeg

Before anyone else says anything, they are D585 coils and that is a singular motorsports bracket (I thought I had the right coils when I ordered the bracket). Although they are not designed to go together I have tested hood clearance and I can still make them fit on the bracket with the hood closed. I just need to make a trip to the hardware store to mount them up.

I am also having an issue with my tuning laptop. It runs windows vista 32bit and for no fucking reason non of the USB ports work anymore and it gives me this really annoying error telling me there is an unknown usb device that it can't recognize when nothing is plugged in. I need to fix this or register tunerstudio on a new laptop so I can autotune.

Vista. 32. Ow. I have to drink now to dull the pain.

hahaha, vista is like the band-aidz of the computer world

Keep in mind, most -10an elbows and fittings are quite a bit smaller I.D than the 0.5" recommended.

Apparently the USB issue is a common problem on computers running vista. I am contemplating my best option forward. I am currently using my brother's laptop to access tunerstudio while I figure it out. I have already tried almost all of the solutions I have found online and nothing has really worked so far. I am going to put in a little more time to try and fix it before I install a new operating system. This laptop is essentially only used for tuning now so if I can't get it to work it will be time to retire it and get something else. Hopefully something less bulky.

I will also be getting the GoPro up and running this time so I can take video. I looked at a few different mounting solutions including DIY. I am not a fan of the GoPro plastic mount as it has been known to break and I don't want to lose the camera. I could go the DIY route but I don't really want to fuck with it and I have more money than time at the moment so I am going with this setup:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1445439031

UPR Racing SupplyHeavy Duty GoPro Roll Bar Camera Mount!

It appears to be super well made with almost no chance of losing the camera. I also like the wide range of adjustability.

That mount you posted seems to have no vibration dampening at all and a rather long lever arm, and could result in weird buzzing noises or wavy/distorted video depending on the NVH of your car when it hits a resonant frequency.

I have this mount:



Highly reccomend it and it has multiple inserts for different bar sizes. It's still mounted solidly in place but it's still dampened.

Here is a video using this mount and a Hero 3+ Black with the open back GoPro case. You can see at times how much my rear view mirror shakes or gets distorted at certain engine RPM's because it is solid mounted.

I really like that mount and probably would have purchased that if I had known about it. Great find. If I have problems with this mount vibrating too much I might be able to add some damping material between the bar and the mount to alleviate the issue. Might need slightly longer bolts to secure it but that shouldn't be a big deal. Thanks for the heads up.

That's a good choice, Ryan. I just lost my HERO4 on Sunday at the track do to a DIY mounting solution after my plastic GoPro Roll Bar Mount broke :facepalm:

If I get another GoPro I'll be getting that one with the inserts.

When I was looking for mounts I read a ton of stories about people losing camera's to the mounts breaking. I decided I needed something rather substantial and preferably metal.

The big suction cup mount that came with mine has been stable. I mount it inside the car so people can see my arms when I do this:

I am finally back in action bitches! Car hasn’t run properly in basically 2 years due to the engine blowing up at Daytona in November 2014. After getting the new motor built and running only to be crippled by a misfire in cylinder 3 I was rather demoralized. I was also working a ton and didn’t have a garage at first. Once I got a garage and got the car running again in preparation for Daytona I thought all was good. As previously shown in the thread, the misfire came back and we narrowed the cause to likely be related to a bad valve seal.

What I did not previously share in the thread is that at the same time my EFR 7163 decided to have 3 of the 4 bolts back out of the exhaust housing allowing for the turbo to partially separate and contact with the side of the housing. I did not take pictures of this as I was just upset and completely over it. The car was trailered back to my garage and there it sat for a while as my work took back over.

I was traveling almost 100% for work during the first 7 months of this year and had absolutely no time for the car. Well I ended up getting a fantastic job offer that included a promotion, large pay raise, and minimal travel. During this time I ended up reviving my motivation to get back to working on the car. I finally disassembled the turbo to see the true extent of the damage and figure out how to move forward. This was not before talking with South East Power systems about why the bolts backed out in the first place since their torque was just checked.

What I was told may help someone else on this board so listen up. Apparently the bolts in the aluminum housings on the new EFRs will anneal the aluminum in certain motorsports applications and backout. This was first discovered by the indy teams and ARP was contracted to make a custom Inconel bolt that is predrilled for safety wire. He said that if I told him I was using the turbo in a tracked Miata with stiff motor mounts that he would have recommended it from the beginning. He also decided to let me know that the EFR turbine wheel is very susceptible to side load and he has seen them snap off. This scared the shit out of me because I had not looked at the wheel on my turbo yet.

The bolts look like this:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d75c0a7ad4.jpg

Luckily when I pulled the turbo and disassembled it there was only the most superficial damage to both the wheel and the housing as it has BARELY made any contact. I was overjoyed. I proceeded to clean it up a bit and reassemble it complete with the new safety wired bolts. I got the car back together and gave it a once over before starting it back up. It ran but still on only 3 cylinders.

I contacted a small independent local shop, Maztech, to have them fix the issue as I didn’t know if I was going to have to remove the head. It ended up just being a valve seal that was installed crooked which was now fouling the plug with oil. The car is now happily running on all 4 cylinders and I am in the process of properly tuning the fuel so I can really see the performance of which this EFR 7163 is capable. This also begins the journey of installing all of the parts that have laid dormant in my garage for so long including - but not limited to - an oil cooler, replica exige seats, harnesses, VVT control, Shadow Dash nexus tablet head unit, and a 3.63 ring and pinion.

Huzzah!

Sounds like a very long journey this year so far, glad to see you have your motivation back on the project. I myself am without a garage but I am making plans on changing that very soon once I pickup a daily driver.

Interesting info on the ARP bolts :naughty:

YESSSSSSS! Welcome back!

So today has been an interesting day. I have been autotuning fuel for the last week while driving to work but the weather has been pretty shit so I hadn't had the chance to do some balls out pulls......until today. It was lightly raining but I figured it wouldn't be too bad so I went to my favorite bridge for this kind of thing and started doing pulls in 4th and 5th gear to tune the fuel up top. I was not logging the first couple passes each way on the bridge but it was pulling really hard. After a few pulls I noticed when the car hit between 5-6k rpms that it seemed to shoot to 7k in a way that indicated the clutch (FM2 rated at 353 ft/lbs) was slipping. I decided I wanted to log a pull anyway and set it all up. I put the car in 5th (I'm like 99% positive it was in 5th gear) and did a full pull. The car was pulling really hard and then sure enough somewhere after 5k the rpm shot up to about 7k and I released the gas. when I got home I put the log in Virtual Dyno and became very confused. For context, the car is on wastegate (14psi spring I believe) and has no EBC. On the first few runs my few cells were changing in the 220kpa (17psi) range but I did not log this unfortunately.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1499651ba6.jpg

This is basically what I expected to see until I narrowed the range to before the obvious slippage.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d681d69ccb.jpg

In my mind there is no fucking way that I hit 364hp and 395 ft/lbs. However, I never questioned that I was in 5th gear until I looked at this graph. I didn't even think my 650cc injectors could support this much power so I went to the RC injector size calculator and checked.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3d617e8ec4.jpg

Well I guess they will. I put in 60psi at the rail because I believe that is what stock is for a miata. Even if I keep the 43.5psi default it has 661cc injectors handling it at 80% duty cycle so mine would be able to make it. This graph would also support my clutch slipping. However, MS is only showing the actual boost pressure only reaching 180kpa (11.6psi) which would make no sense for achieving this power level.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3c579fadea.jpg

I began doubting myself that I was actually in 5th gear because I just can't accept the graph. So I switched the gear in VD to 4th just to see what would happen.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d4f28c0366.jpg

This is more of what I would be expecting from the boost pressure and rpms. However, it really felt like it was pulling way harder than that. It was a little scary how fast the car was moving. I also don't see how my clutch would start slipping at such a low torque value. My only other explanation is that I was losing my back tires once the turbo kicked in hard. I have 225 rivals which I have heard can be terrible on a wet road. I didn't feel the back end move at all though and it would be kind of insane to spin the back tires in 5th gear with only 246 ft-lbs of torque. They would have had to spin in such a way that the car remained entirely stable and straight which I guess is possible but just not likely when it happened multiple times back to back. Am I missing anything? Do I have any settings in virtual dyno setup incorrectly?

I am going to try again when the road is dry so I can rule out the tires breaking loose.

The sun came out and dried up the street so I went for 2 more runs just to see what would happen. The clutch is definitely slipping. Here are two snaps from the logs I took of each run. The car is exhibiting very predictable behavior.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6f7db8df08.jpg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6d7449e959.jpg

The RPMs are rising very linearly until about 5.5k and then there is a noticeable knee in the graph where the rpms shoot up exponentially. This is my best guess for where the clutch slips. I thought it was at the spike in boost pressure at around 180kpa but I think this is just when the wastegate opens on its own. The clutch actually appears to slip right at 14psi which is coincidentally spring pressure on the wastegate. I took another look at my previous run and it was definitely a 5th gear pull. The clutch just happened to slip at a mere 4.15k rpms. I cross referenced the most recent two runs in Virtual dyno to just before the jump in rpms and I got this:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...14f908c396.jpg

In the last two runs the clutch appears to have slipped around 280ft-lbs. This is about 70ft-lbs shy of it's rating. My theory is that I have an oil leak from the rear main seal that is causing oil to get to the clutch and allow it to slip early. Sad times. I appear to have a few other oil leaks on the bottom of the engine as well so I am going to need to pull the engine out and redo a few seals to fix the issue.

World's first 2000whp Miata! Woohoo!

Let's brew some beer!

See if oil is leaking and getting to the clutch.