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You need to use one of the analog inputs. And then a 5v reference from the ECU also. Your best bet is going to be contacting reverant directly, to figure out what inputs to use. I'm not sure how he wires things up.
69' chevy c10 stepside. It has a 350 and and a th350 auto tranny. Body is in pretty good shape. Only significant rust damage is on the cab floor and it's all patchable. Interior needs work in general but the dash and factory gauges are still in place without any real damage. Has some really ugly Cadillac buckets in it that have really cracked leather. On the hunt for a bench.
Also hoping to redo the oil drain hole in the oil pan of the miata this weekend.
Last edited by sixshooter; 03-27-2017 at 01:57 PM.
Nices Stuff like this is getting harder and harder to find in serviceable shape.
Time to invest in a lightweight trailer so you can tow that Miata to the track?
I was think about that. I would need to make sure it's reliable and get a new rear end in it. It was originally a 4 speed manual with overdrive instead of a 3 speed auto so it has a 4.1 rear end. At 60mph it's turning over at 3k rpms. The autos came with a 3.07 rear end which is much more highway cruising friendly. I also need to convert the front drums to disc because they are pretty weak as they sit now in stock form.
I hope you've seen the Roadkill muscle truck? Totally okay with seeing a drag truck thread pop up.
I haven't seen this episode yet but I am working my way through the series right now. I love that show. My two favorite cars so far are the jag with the 5.0 that they slapped a supercharger on and the Mazda truck with the motor in the bed.
Sixshooter came over and put his greased up finger in my hole
We found something pretty obvious and pretty embarrassing at the same time. I have no idea how this has gone unnoticed for this long but look what we have here....
Oh hello Mr. Pickup Tube. I see you've been restricting my turbo oil drain you fat piece of ****. This was such a mind blowing revelation. I could have sworn I checked for this exact problem when we first tapped that area of the pan. Clearly I did not. Luckily fixing this really isn't that hard. I used a 3/8 NPT plug to block this drain hole and then we moved over about an inch an a half and then up about a half inch or so. We retapped a new hole and it ended up making the entire drain routing A LOT better. The new drain hole is 1/2 NPT to 10AN. The new drain line clears the steering rack and maintains a straight short path from the turbo to the block.
So I am like 99% sure we found the issue. However, after reassembling the car and trying to start it up I found out that my battery was dead from me leaving the trunk open when I grabbed my wheel lock. Steve's miata was unable to provide enough juice with my jumper cables and we were both tired so we called it a day. I went out and bought a trickle charger and put it on my battery. I'll fire her up tomorrow and give it a test ride.
Dang. Didn't think about the oil pickup when drilling for my return line fitting. Do you think it will work?
You've chosen a very similar location to my new drain hole. You do appear to be a little lower than I am which is the issue. You might be close to level with the drain tube where your fitting is located. Before you seal the pan to the motor you need to mock it up with the pickup tube in place and take a look through the oil drain hole.
Edit: after reviewing the pictures from my new drain and your fitting it's actually very hard to tell if you'll have an issue. You're not as low as I originally thought but you still might be partially blocked. You really do need to mock it up to be sure.
So it wasn't my battery. The starter is just not engaging. We had to jack the engine up off the driver side mount to gain access to the pan with the drill. I think the starter contact either got knocked loose or the contacts need to be cleaned. I had too much other stuff going on today to really look at it so I'll take care of it tomorrow.
The power contact from the battery got knocked loose off the starter somehow. I re-tightened that and the car fired right up. It seems to be running well. I started re-tuning the fuel map and it is super rich. I'm not sure if it was the excessive oil in the intake or if my coolant temp sensor was dying slowly prior to completely shitting the bed but the entire map was getting leaned out a ton. It was so rich in boost after about 5500 rpms that it was bogging. I didn't drive too much but when I got back home I went into the table and manually pulled fuel from the obvious spike in the table up top and smoothed it to more normal levels. I will probably drive it to work tomorrow to get some more tuning in and can hopefully do some virtual dyno pulls this week on wastegate. I'm so excited that it's finally running and not spewing oil everywhere!
PSA for anyone with a vics manifold and a mS2e from Rev:
Drove car last night to tune. Its running hella rich and does not feel fast at all and not building more than a few psi of boost in low gears. In 6th gear going 60 on the highway I could floor it and the car would not accelerate and anytime I hit about 5500 rpms it bogs hard. Tunerstudio is pulling *** loads of fuel. I assumed my 02 sensor was bad or way out of calibration.
Today I remember having this same issue when I first installed the ecu and rev told me that his ecu will not play nice with the VTCS manifold. I can't remember if this was MSM specific or not. Anyway I unplugged the VTCS solenoid and the car instantly comes back to life. Tuning is commencing. Hopefully VD plots will be posted in the coming days.
These are on Ryoku Rob mounts. They sit about 1.5-2" lower than stock. I did a few virtual dyno pulls but I keep hitting boost cut (20psi) before redline without trying. I'm also pretty sure my valve seals are leaking so I need to replace those. I used supertech valve seals on the build but I'm going to go back to oem.
Last edited by sixshooter; 05-08-2017 at 06:42 AM.
03-20-2017, 11:00 AM
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