when you say super rich, how rich are we talking?
lol we really should finish up your tune before you race everyone under the sun and pop this motor.

can't see vid at work will watch after

 

like a catapult! sounds mmmmm good

 

LOL dude, fuel is SO easy to tune .. why are you running rich? Take 10 goddamn minutes and tune the thing.

Otherwise, awesome car/build/videos/*****. I usually never worry about compression numbers as long as the cylinders are even, too many variables (especially living at high altitude, where a "good" miata motor will pull 120-150's compression).

 

It was running rich because of the vacuum leak. Thanks for the compliements guys. Vlad it was in the 10's when it was idling. Once I found the leaking hose everything was golden. And my laptop crapped out so I can't do the fuel. I is too stupid anyways.

 

Make sure you change the oil if the car was in the 10's at idle. That oil will be half fuel and no workie!

 

yeah that

 

Yep, changed the oil. Changed the vacuum lines to a better material.

How bad of an idea would it be to go to the drag strip after tuning is finished and a 6 speed with some Mickey Thompsons on it? Will the rear end take a couple of launches on some super sticky M/T's?

Also, what is required to start building boost while staging?

 

Are you worried about breaking the torsen? Traction won't kill you, wheel hop will. M/T's come in all sizes and stickiness, so it's hard to say how you should treat it. If you're worried about breaking something then just soft launch it, don't go ape **** at the start and hop your way into a new axle or diff.

Here's Savington a while back breaking his torsen at the strip.

 

Not a bad idea if you know what you're doing. If you launch it correctly you shouldn't break anything. If you wheel hop like mad you will break a lot of things.

Launch control. We briefly discussed this when we tuned. Set up the hardware portion of it (clutch switch) and I can set up the rest.

 

Excellent, I will get the clutch switch stuff set back up. So that means I have to fix the VTPS, dammit lol.

 

You should fix the vtps no matter what. Bottom line, it has to work right or we'll end up using mapdot which is not nearly as nice.

 

But I don't know what is wrong with it. I has the stupidz. I'll send the MegaSquirt back to Brain and he can deal with it lolz

 

The right tires will eliminate wheel hop. I never had a problem as soon as I switched to slicks.

I am speculating, but it is possible that you will have better luck launching in second, depending on what final gear you are using.

 

+1 definitely a good idea.

And if he's still on the 4.30 rear then yes 1st is completely useless

 

I'm using the 3.92 gear. I haven't selected the tires yet, something soft and sticky...

 

Nothing new to update, just keeping the thread from dying. Awaiting funding to get a 6 speed, then to finalize tuning. In 3,000 miles I have destroyed my Toyo's lol I honestly only did one brake stand, and that's after the cord had started to show. Only a handful of small launches were wheel spin was pretty minimal. Just a lot of 2 gear rolling burnouts, they are just so much fun. I can't wait to crank up teh boostz

 

Yowza, those things are done son.
Only 3k miles out of them too, that's crazy. treadwear is under 100 for those isn't it?

I too can't wait to run ALLOFIT

 

Treadwear is 100 on them.

I want this in my car. I am running a DIYPNP MS2 in my car. What else do I need for this baller ****?

 

We all want this - Nice work on those tires btw... and I can vouch for the right set of tires and wheel hop.

Also - What engine/diff mounts are you using. You'd be surprised how much movement the diff has from the factory, something about ride quality...

But legitimately, tires and or poly diff bushings alongside engine mounts will make a big difference in the wheel hop area. Less load being absorbed into moving drive-train parts.

That energy is transferred to the movement of the diff and when it snaps back you get the perfect ingredients to produce wheel hop.

 

Energy suspensions red polys everywhere including the diff. And I am using 1971 dodge dart motor mounts. Like a bauce! lol