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Old 05-15-2013, 09:31 AM   #221
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There was still turbine glow after cool down 1/2 lap, returning to garage, and removing safety gear. Turbo blanket definitely works. So does Resbond and Inconel. Crappy cell phone pics were all I could take at the time.









I let the car idle for a loooonnnng time after each session to cool down.
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-turbineglow1_zps96e1b44f.jpg   -turbineglow2_zps8119af85.jpg   -turbineglow3_zps466db60d.jpg  
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:48 AM   #222
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Thick steel takes a long time to cool. Measure what the temp of it is while its hot right after the lap and move on.
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:25 PM   #223
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That is hot. I assume the dipstick has not melted?
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:46 PM   #224
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I'm not saying it has anything to do with the blanket but... I'm pretty the track gurus are against them.
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:26 AM   #225
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You see them on pro-level cars, so not sure why they're frowned upon? I've got one, but before TSE stud kit, had to keep removing it to get to bolts - which got old over time. I'll be using it *when* my track build is done.

Seeing it glow like that Steve, define Looooong idle cool down... like 10 minutes? Makes he think of adding K-thermocouple to monitor turbine housing temps... my impatient *** would probably turn it off too soon and cook the oil.
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:37 AM   #226
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I really think it is because your timing is too retarded. Always trying to play it safe but too safe is not good either.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:00 AM   #227
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I'd be willing to bet that the long run coming out of the infield, around the high bank and back in has a lot to do with that heat. That is a loooong run in boost. What's your front camber/toe?
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:16 AM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneSplicer View Post
You see them on pro-level cars,
That's why I'm not convinced there is any problem having one. I can't imagine having that much unrestrained radiant heat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneSplicer View Post
Seeing it glow like that Steve, define Looooong idle cool down... like 10 minutes? Makes he think of adding K-thermocouple to monitor turbine housing temps... my impatient *** would probably turn it off too soon and cook the oil.
It was definitely 10 minutes plus. I was in no hurry to shut it off.

At 10psi I was getting AFRs of 10.7-10.9, which I thought was reasonable considering the heat It may need some more advance to get it all burned before exiting the cylinder.
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I really think it is because your timing is too retarded. Always trying to play it safe but too safe is not good either.
I just don't know who has a well developed spark map with a stock '94-'96 bottom end. You never know if the guy you are copying is as lost as Hustler. Anyone you can think of in particular?
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:28 AM   #229
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https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...z-18648/page4/

Ben from DIY autotune has a dynotuned spark table for a stock NA bottom end. Post #80. If it seems a little aggressive for you take 2 degrees out and you should be fine. I run the boost part of this table as my spark advance table with no problem and a more aggressive table in vacuum that I took from Loren and modified just a little.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:37 AM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
You never know if the guy you are copying is as lost as Hustler. Anyone you can think of in particular?
Hustler is one of the few here that always tunes on a load bearing dyno and uses det cans.

Just sayin.

I used to run my fuel in the 10's and super conservative timing a long time ago. Kept warping flanges and glowing like you. That got old real fast.
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:35 PM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
Hustler is one of the few here that always tunes on a load bearing dyno and uses det cans.

Just sayin.

I used to run my fuel in the 10's and super conservative timing a long time ago. Kept warping flanges and glowing like you. That got old real fast.
I just like giving him a hard time.

Yeah, you also had the benefit of being able to use e85, iirc. That change must solve a lot of problems. Except for fuel consumption. We don't have access to that here so it's not an option.

Ryan, I remember that spark table from a long time ago, but hadn't revisited any spark info since I started turning the pressure up. I'll see if I can optimize things here in the next two days. I need to pull out the det cans.
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:46 PM   #232
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True but I'm talking about before I switched to e85. Like you I was all about keeping it as absolutely safe as possible. Then realized that you can break things by being too safe. That was a real eye opener lol
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:48 PM   #233
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I reread the thread and didn't see anyone running much more timing than me in the 156-183kpa range. Anyone else got a well developed map for a stock '94-97 engine.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:39 PM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
I reread the thread and didn't see anyone running much more timing than me in the 156-183kpa range. Anyone else got a well developed map for a stock '94-97 engine.
I think this is my old spark map of when Jerry at DIYAutoTune tuned my car in 2008. It was a bone stock 94 bottom end with a begi kit and a sr20 t25. I was getting spark blow out on my stock coils around 10psi. The dyne below were my final numbers at 9.5psi


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Old 05-18-2013, 03:09 PM   #235
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I'm running a lot more than that in 183kpa and at 156kpa, and this is for a track car.



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Old 05-18-2013, 05:48 PM   #236
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this is what i run:

(the top table)

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Old 05-18-2013, 10:23 PM   #237
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Yours is more conservative than mine in the ~183kpa range.
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:55 PM   #238
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I dunno what to say then. Too much fuel?
I've never seen people's hotsides still glowing after idling for 10+ minutes after a cooldown lap like that.
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:12 AM   #239
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The picture wasn't 10 minutes later, but i was letting the car idle in the garage for 10+ minutes after coming in. The actual pic was after slowing for the last half lap, and then removing my helmet and fire gear and unbuckling from the harnesses. I had run about 15 minutes hard on the track at ~90 degrees ambient. This track involves repeatedly running from 4k rpm in 2nd gear up to 6500 rpm in 5th (130mph), so I know it is building some heat.

I'm cautious about running higher than 11.0 AFRs at 10psi on the 2870 on the track. Detonation is a scary prospect and the heat soak is real after several laps.
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:23 AM   #240
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I say your turbo needs air. Ok ok pro guys use blankets, but I don't and my turbo never glows after a proper cool down lap. I also leave the fans on for 5-15 minutes after pulling into the pits.

My downpipe also wasn't fabricated by a 12 year old.
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