dustinb

Still looks amazing. I want. Trade for a turbo's 97 1.8 setup?

Stein

iTrader: (46)

LOL, I could have saved myself $10K and a couple hundred hours if I would have just left my turbo 99 alone.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Moving along nicely man.

A lot of the stuff you did I didn't know was needed for this type of swap. Makes me realize yet again that these swaps are not as easy/straightforward as some think

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

I have been watching this and your m.n closely. I have been thinking seriously about selling off all of my 99 turbo stuff, like the entire drivetrain, nice built BP motor (fresh, unused), GT2871, S4, Adaptronic, etc. and converting my 99 DD over to a V8. I think your $10K number is a good benchmark. When I add up everything I would sell off and what I could get for it, it would still take several kilobucks above that to do the V8 conversion. So I think one V8 Miata will have to be enough for me

Thanks for documenting all of this. It is looking great.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Yes there is a lot more to it than people think. They get "remove engine/trans and install engine/trans" on the brain and think they can knock it out in a couple of weekends. Martin's kit claims 60-100 hours. I'd like to see that done in twice the time for a first timer. Absolutely no way. Heck, most people will have that much time in wiring.

I could have been done by now if I had used a kit, but that's another $4K for the kit and $2K for axles if I would have just blindly followed the websites.

ZX did the right thing by buying a running car. That said, I'm sure he would agree that a "done" car is never finished, time-wise or money-wise.

There is a local that stopped by as he is borrowing my subframe welding jig. He's convinced that he is going to get it done for $2K. Even after I pointed out more than that on my car he still thinks he is going to do it. Now, with absolutely no adders, cheap stock 5.0, DIY everything, you might get it done for $4K but why? You end up with a 200WHP car that is heavier than stock.

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

I am unsubscribing from this thread until I graduate.

This looks like a very fun project. I feel like most people that do these swaps, at least without a PnP kit, end up hating themselves. But it looks like you're doing everything right, with the intent of never having to go back like ZX will probably have to keep doing on his. I would love to build one like this.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

WORD. I probably could have driven it as-is with some minor repairs/upgrades but I HAVE to make it better/stronger/faster. If I ever sell it the next guy will get a deal too.

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

I graduate at the end of next year.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Woot. Just ordered a pair of Sparco Sprint 5's and a M2 Hardcore Hardtop bar. So, the big bills are now done for the car, except for the paint shop bill.

Well, I may be buying a new set of 6UL's. The guy that's coming to look at my 99 this weekend may want them. Looking at trading my 99 with 6UL's straight across for an 09 Triumph Daytona 675 that's been track prepped. Stickys, aftermarket slipper clutch, CF Jardine header, rearsets, steering dampener. Bike has 2,500 miles and 200 on a factory new motor (failure in heat exchanger got water in the oil - replaced under warranty).

So, with Titamium paint, would you do silver, nickel or black 6UL's?

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

Those are nice bikes...I know a few guys that track them. Never rode them, but my 955i was very well made, had character, and would absolutely rip on any road, and day, and condition.

With titanium paint I'd want a darker color wheel, but not sure if I'd go all the way to black. Nickel may be nice, silver would look confused.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Well, it was late Saturday but I just finished tack welding the entire exhaust. I accomplished my goal. I have a full 3" through the diff/subframe - no pinched down areas, no rubbing. It was a challenge. It didn't occur to me when I ordered, but the 3" 180* u-bends are 6" radius. They are HUGE. 15" outside to outside. So, I ended up having to cut a lot of pie cuts to shrink the radius in places but it worked out great. I included the huge Magnaflow that I had on my turbo car. Everything is V-banded. There are three 3" V-bands in the 3" section, before, inside and after the subframe so the entire exhaust can be taken apart without any issues. Two 2 1/2" V-bands on the headers so the entire exhaust can be dropped in less than 10 minutes. Man I can't wait to hear this thing. I must say the exhaust looks badass. Took me about 12 hours to finish weld today, plus add O2 bungs, hangers, etc. Exhaust just tacked in the pics.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Also, the guy with the Daytona came out and commited to buy the 99 today. The only thing is he had promised the bike to another guy that was supposed to look at it two weeks ago. He showed up Thursday. He's trying to get a loan on it. The owner is going to give him until Monday. If he doesn't come up with the money, he's trading the bike for the Miata and my bronze 6UL's with RS3's. If he does come up with the money it will be a cash deal and then I get to start looking for a bike. I want the Daytona, plus we both save sales tax as it is a straight trade so he hopes the guy doesn't come up with the money either. We each will save about $560 in taxes.

There were only 8 Nickel 15x8 6UL's left so I snagged 6 of them. Wanted four for another set of RS3's or maybe I'll transfer the sale to Brian Goodwin and have him mount up a set of R1R's. I'm undecided but wanted to get them on order before I miss out. I got two extra for a set of MT ET Street drag radials.

Growing out my mullet as we speak.

turotufas

iTrader: (7)

Damn I want to be like you when I grow up. I should be picking up welding soon, with my dad and friends guiding me.

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

With that money you save on sales taxes you can buy some pretty nice gear. If you don't have a jacket already, check out the closeouts on the 2009 Dainese Laguna Seca. Just picked one up last week, and love it.

Exhaust is fab-ulous. Now that there are no turbos in my garage I'm pretty damn sure my next Miata build will involve twice as many cylinders. Your thread is helping.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

OK, loader fixed, new (used skid steer) running, island is squared away for now, can't ride the bike. No other excuses, so....

Got the radiator rubber mounted, but one of the hoses that I thought would work, won't. Ended up with a 1990 Chevy C1500 PU 5.7L lower. It has a 1.75" in, 1.5" out that I needed and the correct bends. Will need to be cut and spliced.

The 04 Explorer 4.6 that I thought would work for the upper is too short on one leg to clear my Miata PS pump, so it's back to the rockauto website to look at more pics. They seem to have the best pics and more importantly list ID sizes. Will post up what I find that does work.

Picked up all of my fluids-oil, PS fluid, gear oil, trans fluid. THAT made me feel like I'm getting close. I did discover some odds and ends that I need to do as well. Hoping for first start within two weeks.

Pivot points of the front control arms drilled and tapped and grease zerks installed. Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings installed. Right front suspension installed with new ball joints, tie rod end and Tein Flex coilovers. Finishing the left side tonight and suspension will be done. Need to figure out what I'm going to do about the front sway.

I read somewhere where someone used a Datsun 280ZX sway as it has a dip in the center which will better clear the balancer and move the mounting points up closer to the stock points but I can't recall where I saw it. Anyone know about this? Just looking at mine I'd need 6" riser blocks between the stock mount and the bar as it sits today.

Front suspension installed including new lower ball joints and tie rod ends. Ball joints came with all new hardware. Wouldn't you know it, TRW decided to save $.06 by not including new castle nuts with the tie rod ends.

Installed the m-tuned big brake kit on the front tonight with corrado rotors, Carbotech XP10 pads and Goodwin stainless brake line kit tonight. Rears tomorrow. I know that the XP10's are going to be noisy/dusty for the street, but if I don't like it I'll save them for the track and get another set of rotors and pads for the street. I had them and didn't have stockers, so I threw them on. I also installed a wilwood prop valve. Going to try XP10's on the front and rear. I read that most use 10's up front and 8's on the rear but that's on stock front rotors. I figured I can take advantage of the 10's on the rear because of the BBK up front and tweak the balance with the prop valve.

Sorry, no pics. I'll get some.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Well, I ATTEMPTED first start today. Tidied up the last couple of things, primed the oil pump, dropped in the distributor (likely incorrectly) and decided it's worth an attempt. Turned on the key, heard the Walbro go and stop. Good so far. Turn the key to start and...nothing.

Long story short, I kept tracing wires and using the meter. Finally found a place where the PO had hacked in an alarm. When I originally cut it out I didn't realize that they hadn't just tapped into the line coming out of the key but had cut it and tapped in.

Fixed that and it turned over. I got a couple of faint pops out of it, one time it pop, pop, popped after letting off the key. Might be timing, might be the dizzy installed 180* off, might be something else. So, now it's up to the local 5.0 guru to diagnose. He's coming out to the house Wednesday night. I've hit my 5.0 knowledge limit a while ago. Should run by the weekend!

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

Awesome update.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

That exhaust is quite the accomplishment. Looking forward to hearing the 5.0 thru that big magnaflow. Truly inspiring thread.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

Anxiously awaiting news of first run, and of course first run and drive videos!!!

localtech

iTrader: (4)

me 2

Great job buddy.