Absolutely amazing stuff here.

 

I seem to be always asking this question about certain parts of Vegas but what are you using to connect the angle bracket for the barge boards?
I can see that it is to the pinch welds but as they often become a rust point (especially with UK weather) that seems not necessarily as structural as I would have though it required.

 

It is the pinch welds. We don't have much of a rust issue here in SoCal, and this was a very straight car to start with. I had to do it very quickly and would do it differently given more time.

 

Can you elaborate on that?
Being rust prone country I'd like to do it right once.

 

My guess is what you need for your usage and environment is it a different than what we need for our usage and environment. Just be logical if you need to make it weatherproof. If you expose the bare metal then seal it. A wide variety of products are available to seal metal.

 

Yes Emilio I will be taking step to UK proof but there was some inference on a "better" mounting method.
Whether that is sturdier or cleaner I do not know but if it works for you guys I can hopefully not break it (weather issues aside).

It looks like self tapping bolts which would be functional but not as nice as say rivnuts or some other captive attachment.

 

Ah, you are assuming we already have this mythical "better" system planned. That would be a nope. For new problems, we all put our heads together and try to come up with a solution that fits our budget and time constraints. One key delineator is the almost total lack of fabrication tools at our shop.
We either build something very Home Depot here with a hammer and cordless drill or send it across the street to Scarbo for a tig welded, mandrel bent, 5 axis machined Item Of Glory.

 

M6 bolts through the AL angle to attach it to the frame rails. M6 Rivnuts along the bottom to attach the flat bottom and barge boards. M8 rivnuts in the very straight frame rails for inboard attachments.

I put a total of 42 bolts in the flat bottom. Would have done less with welded in nuts. I don't like using rivnuts in spots that can have a high load on them. I am also constrained in that this car goes back to wheel to wheel racing as it's primary job. I would do some things differently if it were solely a time attack car.

 

The "Vegas" to "Reno" transformation.






(KIDDING!) Congrats on the hard fought battle and big win, it was good seeing you guys out there again.

 

 

Update on the HG failure. Installed a new 84.0mm / .040 Cometic with block decked to compensate for the .0013 gasket bump.
Used our new ARP HB (high boost) head studs. https://supermiata.com/ARP-HB-head-studs-miata.aspx
Larger and different material than the standard ARP head stud. Ran as high as 32psi w/o issue.
Torqued to 90 ft-lbs. Kit includes washers

Briefly made 412tq at 3900rpm (EFR6258) before it once again, blew the spark out. Lost a rod bearing at Super Lap though. Switching from 10W30 Amsoil Dominator to 15W50 Dominator.
Next years engine has billet main caps, billet crank and a dry sump, which will go into OGK.

 

Hi Emilio, Was the car running an Accusump when it ran the bearing?

And do you know the g loadings from that day?

 

No accusump. Have not looked at the G forces but the min speeds were about the same as Bullet. That would put average about 1.8 in the fast turns with Peaks just touching 2.

 

 

Emilio, did you consider and reject an Accusump, if so can you share your thinking?

 

OP logged. I think every sensor in the car is going through the canbus. We didn't think we would need the Accusump. But as I've mentioned many times before, this is uncharted territory. Regular S1 loads & duty cycle, it isn't needed.

It will be a few weeks before we get all the answers. Several other projects backed up.

 

 

Im guessing this head gasket and new studs were installed before the event? Which material the uprated stud is made out of? I am looking at some other options for the 2.3L currently probably going to go with the custom age 625+ studs.

I with the restrictor I am in the low 30s with the boost and taper down to about 25psi to keep the turbo speed within reason. I know its a different engine but still nice to know if everyone is in the same ball park...

 

 

Thanks.