Core Width: 20" Width with End Tanks is 26
Core Height: 6.5
Core Thickness: 3.25
Inlet Diameter: 2.5"
Outlet Diameter: 2.5"
Inlet/Outlet Location: Center

Approx. Flow Rate for this intercooler: 520 CFM at 1.5PSi pressure drop
Approx. HP Rating for this intercooler: 350 HP

 

Dude, not sure what happened with the above post haha but that was totally me posting

 

WTF staff?? ^^

I removed my tow hooks just like yours.

There is a bracket on the canister that has like a 10mm bolt. I just loosened it and pushed that canister up, and over to the passenger side a little. That gave me more than enough room. The rubber is a good idea though, i just slapped mine on using two of the existing two hook bolts.

I think i'm going to buy the HF heat knife to cut the top tabs on the bumper off.

 

Hmm... I might check that out. But I kinda like how it is, there's a bit of a channel above the core that lets air flow over it

 

and that's fitting with the dryer in place?

 

Yup

 

buy me one.

 

Good to see my intercooler working out. I see you used some type of spacer? You can loosten the canister and lift it about 10mm. When I built these I actually had an NA with AC in the garage to test fit these. Looks great though! Thanks for the support.

 

I'll contribute to your FMIC fund if I can get some help with tuning this thing. Fo realz yo.

 

I'll probably try that before its all said and done. It's asymmetrical mounting is aesthetically pleasing to me now.

 

Not that the way you did it won't work just fine but you'd get the IC to sit a little higher if you did this. I should have included these photos with the intercooler.

Take a marker and draw a line on the canister mount:


Then loosen the 10mm bolt on the mount, make sure it's free and the canister is broken loose from the clamp:



Then lift it up about 10-12mm and re-tighten:



Should clear perfectly and you can get a nice flush mount with the mating surface on the tow hook mounting area. Should make the intercooler a little more ridged.

 

The other reason for the spacers was because of the oil cooler which is now directly behind the intercooler. It might have to stay where it is for fitment purposes.

 

Ok great - I just wanted to make sure it was not related to the fitment of the IC. I intended them to bolt right up. Good luck with the build boss. Looking great so far.

 

Thanks man. Sorry about all the shipping changes/messages etc... getting packages at work can be tricky.

 

Good news: Innovate warrantied my mtx-l so it should be here soon. Yay.

Now I will hook up my dimming capabilities:
Also, you can take it from the back of the dimmer ****, same red/black wire goes there.

Pretty much anything in the interior that is backlit when the lights are on will have a red/black wire and a red wire going to it. The red/black is the switched +12, the red is the variable closure to ground through the dimmer ****. FYI- they're not using a rheostat, it's PWMed.

 

Perfect for doing away with the tan lower dash. I used it on my lower dash in V8 Miata to great success. Mine was black but scratched up.

Have also used it on typical faded silver-looking black seats - right on the fabric. Nice black color that didn't come off.

Nice build thread so far.

 

Would that work on carpet? Any lingering smell?

 

I too used that stuff on interior panels with great succes

 

Panels are fine, I just want to change the carpet color.

 

I'm not sure if it would work on carpet. One thing to try -and you can test it under the seat to see if it takes - at the grocery store or drug store they will sell little bottles of dye - commonly they will have RIT brand. It's really cheap and because it's a dye there is no build-up so it can't rub off. Try it under the seat first if you want to test it.

EDIT:

I just did a quick search and boom, there it is. Writeup on another forum.

Dying your carpet with Rit dye - DSM Forums