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I wanted the Haltech. But the custom harness from Bluegrass at the time was $2k at minimum spec. A GLTC guy I know with a yellow Miata said he spent $5500 on all his Haltech stuff and he already had the 1500. Not really sure what else he has but it’s a nice electronics package.
Yea, this is the research phase im in currently.
As irritating as another $500 is towards Hondata, the actual total for Haltech is going to eclipse my hondata investment 2-3x.
Buy MS3 for ~$1200
Build your own engine harness for ~$300
Boom, better standalone control then Kpro for(probably?) less money then Haltech.
This also assumes your comfortable wrangling electrons but... It's not that hard to do/learn.
Meh.
MS3 is $1300
Haltech is $1600
KProv4 is $795 + a core OEM ECU.
The recent Kpro v4 upgrade gives Kpro onboard datalogging, ethanol input, protection modes for a/f and oil pressure, 3D 16x20 tables, real-time updates to main tables, etc
I am quickly talking myself out of this "upgrade" as I don't see a ton of benefit to a Haltech(or MS3). The biggest ones being external sensor input for oil temp datalog and drive by wire, but i'm purposefully doing a cable throttle for rules penalties.
It would seem that my long delay in receiving parts has had a couple silver linings in the several hardware upgrades from KPower and the Hondata update.
MS3 is $1300
Haltech is $1600
KProv4 is $795 + a core OEM ECU.
The recent Kpro v4 upgrade gives Kpro onboard datalogging, ethanol input, protection modes for a/f and oil pressure, 3D 16x20 tables, real-time updates to main tables, etc
I am quickly talking myself out of this "upgrade" as I don't see a ton of benefit to a Haltech(or MS3). The biggest ones being external sensor input for oil temp datalog and drive by wire, but i'm purposefully doing a cable throttle for rules penalties.
It would seem that my long delay in receiving parts has had a couple silver linings in the several hardware upgrades from KPower and the Hondata update.
The datalog works great, and the Kpro has built in bluetooth so I can use my phone ($7 app) to monitor IAT and coolant temps without spending any money on additional sensors and gauges. My in car camera sees the values = data logged!
I’ll send you my Hondata calibration file but the one from Kpro did start and drive! Of course tuner said it was off though.
Boxes of parts from Supermiata, CAE, AcuraExpressParts, among others have enabled the next roung of work to begin.
Ceramic coater sent me this, which also adds motivation to be ready FOR it when it arrives.
Related carnage.
#4 rod, bearing and piston from my "Last BP Ever" circa November 2021.
I donated it to Midwest Miata Parts as a hopefully-rebuildable core. He tore it down tonight to find this. Apparently the oil pump is also welded shut.
Hello! First I love your car and this thread. I've had it on bookmark since I decided to get a Miata and build it for HPDE and eventual tt/st. I have a question. It's so easy to get any answer you want online so I figure I'd ask someone directly. I bought a 4.3 Torsen for my car that I was going to install as I originally set out for a SM build. But honestly I'm not much of a SM fan lol. Should I still stick with the 4.3 torsen or is there another LSD that's better? Thanks!
Hello! First I love your car and this thread. I've had it on bookmark since I decided to get a Miata and build it for HPDE and eventual tt/st. I have a question. It's so easy to get any answer you want online so I figure I'd ask someone directly. I bought a 4.3 Torsen for my car that I was going to install as I originally set out for a SM build. But honestly I'm not much of a SM fan lol. Should I still stick with the 4.3 torsen or is there another LSD that's better? Thanks!
Yup, good place to ask.
Even better though (and helps others) is to start a new thread with your question as title. Reason why is people that know the answer and are interested in helping might not be in this thread. By having a title with your question, others years later can search and find the resource.
You're new here so probably don't know that we try to curate the resource
Good luck with your project!
Internet Brands nuked "doward" so here I am starting over on new username. Oh well.
Series of events:
1. Ordered KPower swap kit in early Dec. 2021.
2. Didnt receive the full kit until June 2022.
3. 5 weddings and work travel last summer/fall meant I simply couldnt get the car put together in time for any track use, let alone w2w racing.
4. Didnt touch it until after the new year.
5. Now we here.
I've pulled most of the small stickers off. Trying to clean up the livery for 2023, maybe with a not-so-minor revamp.
This is how the shop has looked since ~October after the BRZ did TT5 duty at Mid Ohio and ran its last autocross.
The Miata is back on the lift now though, and progress is happening.
I no longer need to count grams to try and compete in a 12.5:1 class with a 140whp Mazda BP engine, so some stuff that was pulled in the quest for a sub 2100lb comp weight is being added back in, like headlights.
I also removed/sold the Trackspeed 11.75 DynaPro bbk in order to go back to OEM Sport brakes to save the BBK penalty in NASA ST5. For some reason I took zero photos of the front brakes and their fancy 2 piece Sport rotors.
Little riv nut repair for the radiator bracket:
..and finally got my low mile NB2 subframe ready with the MazdaComp gussets.
The engine is about ready to be sealed up, just need to put some holes in the bellhousing and assemble the engine/trans to go in after the subframe gets sqwapped. hopefully progress picks up pace and I have some regular updates in here again.
5 weddings and work travel last summer/fall meant I simply couldnt get the car put together in time for any track use, let alone w2w racing
What on earth do you do for a living to afford 5 wives AND w2w racing???
In seriousness, was wondering what was happening with this car. Can't wait to see it return and tear up ST/GL again.
What on earth do you do for a living to afford 5 wives AND w2w racing???
In seriousness, was wondering what was happening with this car. Can't wait to see it return and tear up ST/GL again.
Just at the point on the millennial timeline where the second batch of better-late-than-never weddings all occurred the same year. JK, it was mostly Covid delays and reschedules of 2 or 3 and natural life cadence of 2.
I do tend to go on these long 4-6 month racecar-abstinence breaks though. They're healthy.
I do tend to go on these long 4-6 month racecar-abstinence breaks though. They're healthy.
How I feel / why I only aim to race 2-3 times a year. Have watched too many people around me burn hot and then leave the sport/scene entirely, which kinda sucks to see, but oh well.
I do tend to go on these long 4-6 month racecar-abstinence breaks though. They're healthy.
currently on one of these breaks myself. the car did great on its last outing at Road America and now its sitting without me touching it until spring. Feels nice to step away every so often honestly...
Working in spurts as life allows, progress has been slow.
At more than one stage I found a small/cheap part missing from my shipment from kpower that stopped all progress until a flurry of emails were sent and a part arrived only to wait for the next calendar opening. That has been frustrating.
Dropped the loaded subframe out of the car and had the freshly painted and gusseted one ready with the driveline. Supe thankful for the lift and shop space for this combo-step.
Had to add some more color
Not sure yet how i'll mount my splitter/undertray now that the oil pan blocks the front edge of the subframe. I have an idea for a "Z" bridge/clip/extension on the back of the splitter/tray that can sneak up and hang on the subframe like before.
New-to-me steering rack from MiataSource. They sell it shaved, depowered, plugged and can include the fresh urethane mount bushes, as well as tie rods. Pretty convenient and worthy of a shoutout.
Clutch hydraulics done. We did have to cut the end off the pin to shorten it as the instructions say is a "possibility"
While I was in there, I relocated the prop valve onto the reshaped OEM bracket. That gave me a spot to mount the clutch slave bleeder as well, which looks nice and tidy.
Radiator in, coolant lines beginning to take shape.
Need to order another batch of new honda/acura parts/sensors that I missed last time before going much further, but the light is beginning to shine at the end of the tunnel.
If you start getting crank sensor faults at high rpm that result in limp mode, it’s because of the connector. I bought the kpower engine harness and a new Honda crank sensor. The aftermarket pins in the connector are just slightly too big. Solution for me was to depin and very very gently squish the female pin so that when it goes into the male pin, it kinda goes on hard. No more limp mode ever since. Got this info from 3/4 midget racers that use K24s. Kpower said the connector was good but I knew something wasn’t right. Confirmed from midget guys.
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