FWIW most likely they're either resting on the bumpstops, or have no droop travel, due to wrong combo of body length and preload settings. As a quick check for the rear, just measure the wheel-center to fender-lip distance. Repeat with rear jacked up at the differential. The difference should be 1.25~1.5 inches. If it's far from that, there's your problem. Easy to fix to make it better before you swap em out.

And the ***** should be run somewhere near full soft. Any stiffer, and they're really bad.

 

The opposite. I will leave the door cars and steering wheel alone and dye the seats to match the rest of the interior, car is too nice to mess up.

 

I'm curious to know what your experience is with NB returnless fuel systems, in particular MSMs (only slightly related to this thread). I've tuned one MSM, and the fueling was all over the place, fairly difficult to nail down consistently run to run. The dyno operator was the one that tuned Ed's MSM (absurdflow setup), and said it acted very similarly. On the flip side, Lazarus has a MSM engine with a '99 fuel rail and NA FPR, and we can get very consistent AFR graphs.

Are you finding more consistent fueling with the fuelab FPR? Or is it simply because you want a higher fuel pressure?

Dopple was telling me a while ago that you can source just the black panels from Mazda apparently. Melt a few tabs on the back to take the saddle brown stuff out, melt a few more to put the black ones in. He did the same for his SE. Not sure where he sourced them though.

Also, I have the black Nardi out of my '01 LS, but it's no where near perfect.


The one you said won't run low enough to stay within the constraints of a stock block?

 

I'm worried about the tan not matching. I'll do all black with the tan seats, which will look fine (to my eye at least). If I hate it, I'll pick up a set of black Probax seats and sell these. No way am I risking ruining a $1200 set of seats with dye.

 

Fuelab FPR is because I know the DW300 will overpower the stock FPR and cause fuel pressure fluctuations. If the fuel pressure wanders all over the place, then I'll know it can't be done and I'll convert the car to a returnless setup, but I want to try it first because it's really simple to just drop the FPR into the stock system.

No rush, I'll just keep my eye out or ask someone like Tom @ Parts Group to pull the first perfect set he finds and send them my way.

Pretty sure I've said the exact opposite of that, repeatedly

 

FTFY, I think.

Oh, maybe I'm thinking of another EFR, the numbers all confuse me.

 

<p>I have on of the Nardi wheels, but the airbag has relieved itself from the middle. </p><p></p>

 

That's not a black wheel though.

Looking forward to watching this build.

 

Started on the Dynamat. Did the low areas on the fuel tank panel. Doing the low areas on the bulkhead cover seemed like not enough material, so I did the high areas. It's less tinny, but these panels are so thin and poorly supported that I might have to do the backsides as well.

 

Just use black vinyl dye to re-colour the inserts black; 5 years ago I did that on my MSM's silver coloured HVAC fascia and you'd never know it wasn't originally black.

 

What about taking your car to a professional shop where they will guarantee the job?? Your car has a very cool interior, that NB is called a Shinsen or some like due to the fact is a rare Special Edition (only year with that particular interior).

In my opinion, the Car deserves an interior and with those seats matching it would look really cool

 

Andrew, smart move on not using dye on those seats. My old Buddy Club seats I tried to dye, and due to the flame retardant cloth came out looking like **** and ruined them.

Sadly having an interior shop make custom seat covers is $$$$. It was cheaper to buy new seats then to pay them to make new inserts.

As far as noise isolation goes, spraying new rubberized undercoating (after wire wheeling off the old crap) made the most difference in panel resonance.

 

Ahhh, so this is the car you were talking about. Kinda funny seeing you build a street car again.

It looks like we are going the same paths here, except yours will be far more concise with less changing directions and over-complicating/overthinking things. In for win!

 

I think cordy recently had some lotus seat inserts made.

 

I have a pretty damn near perfect Nardi in black. Used for about 35K miles. You pay shipping and free advice when I assemble my new engine....

 

Horribly neglecting this thread, too busy actually building the car.

Turbo system is in, for those of you who didn't see it at MRLS. The manifold is production ready, everything else is in various stages of prototyping. Also swapped in one of our radiators to make sure everything stayed cool. Ran at 5psi at MRLS and everything ran smoothly.







Dynoed on Tuesday after MRLS to confirm my power estimate (160whp). Butt-dyno is finely tuned:


After MRLS, I added a 3" Enthuza exhaust and got the PS/AC hooked back up (parts didn't arrive in time for MRLS). We're up to 175-180whp now at 6psi. Next up is an EBC valve and/or medium boost actuator. Also need to get an oil cooler and reroute installed.

 

It sounds good with the Enthuza.

--Ian

 

I've been dialing in the EBC over the last couple of days. Still on the low-boost actuator and using the Pierburg valve that comes standard on every B1-frame EFR. Most settings swiped from Soviet, with a couple of tweaks for 1.3.4 (Normal output polarity instead of inverted and my own PID numbers).





Boost target is 160kpa above 50%TPS, 140kpa below that (wastegate is ~140kpa)

Thoughts? I get a little too much overshoot on big RPM rises (low gears), so I'm inclined to raise P a bit further (I've been as low as 20), but as P goes down, it doesn't want to find the target in 3rd and 4th, which makes me inclined to drop I a bit as well to reduce error on longer pulls.

Once I get this dialed in, I'll go back to the dyno for 8psi and 10psi pulls, then swap the 6758 in and get some spool comparison data, and then it's time for a built shortblock.

 

Couple things.

1. Set the min and max DC for the boost control. It will make it easier for the code to hit its targets. (Multiple pulls increasing DC from 0 until you see a difference. Then start at 100 and do the same. Make sure overboost is working )

2. Use the initial values table. It will help with the oscillation by giving it a better starting point.

3. Lower the delta. You can use less P with a lower delta because the DC will be kept at 0 for longer. For example: when you are spooling currently the PID algorithm is trying to hit 160kpa. But it can't, because the turbo won't do it. So you end up with it winding up until suddenly it can't and you get overshoot. By lowering the delta (start with 30kpa) you let the PID algorithm rest while you spool.

4. Another thing to keep in mind is that the slider IS active in advanced mode. So make sure to dial it in in basic first.

5. Try some D. Might help with the overshoot but shouldn't impede reaching your targets in higher gears like lowering P does.

Car looks fun.

 

Ballsy order of operations