I am 100% uninterested in sphericals for a street car

 

What bigger problems? You can get the V8R arms with poly or spherical bearings.

 

I also saw the v8 arms in Passey's thread. If they really do eliminate wheel hop then that would be nice. Someone with a 300whp+ miata should buy them with poly bushings and test them out because Ryans car isn't gonna be done for along time. If only I knew someone who had one...

 

I have a full delrin/spherical setup in my rear upper control arms. I can still get wheel hop if i dump it the wrong way. But I can also launch with wheelspin and do some pretty epic burnouts. Its better than rubber but not perfect.

 

Your upper control arms are stock though, right? You are illustrating the point of bushings not being the complete problem, which was E02K's thesis. So if your bushings fixed 75% of it, then perhaps the last 25% is having a tubular or billet arm like V8R makes.

 

Yup stock. Someone loan me a set of v8r arms and i'll go do some burnouts and report back

 

Apparently I'm 'tarded today and can't find it, what thread?

Mine is stock atm, don't look at meeee...

Right! But I don't think flex in the arm accounts for 25% or even 10% or maybe even 5% of the deflection that results in wheel hop. In all the Miatas where I've seen wheel hop it is incredibly violent, In my own car trying to break loose even marginally warm NT-01s it feels like someone is hammering on the back end of the car with rather large sledgehammer. I'm no injuneer or metallurgist but I cannot imagine a piece of steel would last very long at all if it were deflecting enough to cause a significant percentage of that deflection. There is a lot of rubber slop in that rear suspension system that can compress under load. Stiffen that up with poly or delrin or sphericals to reduce that flex and it'll go a log way to reduce the hop. This is one of the reasons the Beatrush triangle diff brace thing works, it constrains the diff in one axis to prevent said loading/unloading.

I'm NOT saying you are wrong or that Ryan is wrong, because I'm sure some percentage of the flex is in the steel, but I do think we are giving that variable too much weight in the equation.

 

Diff bushings and lower control arm bushings probably make some contribution.

 

I agree with that ^

So if Aidan says his wheel hop is almost gone and all he has done is bushings for the rear, then what conclusion is there to make? Well, actually, we can't make a conclusion yet, because we don't have enough info or even data from V8R on how their arms eliminate the wheel hop.

So Aidan, do you also have replacement diff bushings?

Does this wheel hop occur at any power level? I have a basically stock 01 that I am finally starting to build, so I might could be a guinea pig for adding parts one at a time to see how they affect wheel hop. My engine is making stock power, though, and I don't think the TSE kit will be in full kit form anytime soon...

 

Delrin diff bushings (with the stock rubber sandwich thingies)

3 out of 4 lower control arm bushings are delrin, one is poly.

90 subframe with no extra bracing.

Wheelhop is better than before, but I can still get it if I just dump the clutch at 4500rpm on certain pavements. I can also get a perfect launch occasionally.

 

So you are almost all the way there. Maybe the final piece of the puzzle is the upgraded upper arms, but that takes money to find out. Hopefully Ryan finishes his build this year lol

Perhaps the Beatrush brace E02K mentioned could help too.

 

I bought materials to make a beatrush type brace a few months ago. Haven't gotten around to it.

Arms might happen. Who knows

 

Shhhhhh! Im 8 pages into your build thread. Done give anything away.

Ive been following Ryan's build on CR. Don't ban me. My NA becomes a track car (Build thread) - ClubRoadster.net

 

Good enough to convince me to try the V8R arms. At $275 it's an inexpensive experiment. I'll order a set and install them when I do the bushings.

 

setting up LC, and feeding in boost/timing gradually post launch will also help a lot imo

 

Oh course, and so will just slipping the clutch to launch it. But I want to be able to just dump the clutch and burnout and go

 

RL does that for me. Cuts injector cycles to maintain launch RPM, and then slowly adds them back in to maintain a pre-determined wheel slip percentage. Even with a 2-3 shift I've logged ~4.2s 0-60s.

 

Hello again.

A little motor mishap in the Spring meant that Acamas was mothballed all summer as I focused on R&D projects and Rover's S1 and ST4 programs. With Rover nearing competion and things slowing down for the fall, I was able to get Acamas back up and running a couple of weeks ago.

Since Rover now carries the brunt of the track R&D workload for our upcoming turbo bits, Acamas will be refocused on street performance. I've already swapped the 15x10 for 15x9s (less visual agression and a little more ride comfort), the G-LOC R12s will get swapped for GS-1s, and the hood vents will depart in favor of an OEM hood. I'm also planning on upgrading shocks again to XIDA XL Ace 300/200s, for dat old man ride quality.

I'm working towards the final tuning maps since all the motor hardware is pretty much complete at this point (forged longblock, fuel system is dialed, D585 coils, etc). Pump-gas mapping was completed this morning, details below. Next step is to finish the E85 mapping and see what the setup will do at higher boost.

https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...6/#post1441293

 

Wanna sell those hood vents?

or is it still a track hood?

 

I feel an important update incoming.