Seems like it.


That being said, are there no seals on the front hub on the spindle nut side? I feel like grease could evacuate

 

As an owner of a legit NB manual rack, I can tell you are in for a treat. Super jealous if that thing is brand new. I wanted one for my MSM but couldn't justify a $600 rack from Mazda.

 

I am just using this for the front subframe which has nb mounts. Is it any different than the manual NA rack?

 

Other than being a zero mile unicorn, nope! Same ratio as an NA manual rack.

 

Finally starting this bit. Bearings are pressed into sleeves, need to clean up the knuckle and decide if I should have kept the dust shield back there. I need to pull it slightly to clear the 10.9" rotors or just remove completely. What would you do?

Pillow ***** press in by hand with some effort. Hopefully this sleeve juice from locate will set up nicely. Almost looks like there's enough meat on the knuckle to drill a blind tapped hole for a machine screw so the cap can retain the sleeve

 

I clearanced my rotor covers with a 3/8 extension. put it between the rotor and cover, rolled it back and fort a few times.

 

Like rolling fenders with a bat. -_-
I'll try your technique.



Brake question for you all. I have my trackspeed kit 11.75" kit sitting pretty but not sure what pads to run. I have a set of Polymatrix E pads in hand, and need to replace the rear HPS pads.

Any ideas on which pad combo to run for a very spirited 350whp street car and maybe some autocross if this car will ever pass tech? I want to do HPDE later once I iron out the rest of my suspension, but that's in the distance.

 

I just have the cheapy wilwood pads (BP10 I think?) that came with my kit in front, and whatever was on the car before in rear... I think it was Hawk HPS. Works fine for autox at the one event I went to, and fine in aggressive street driving so far. Won't be sufficient for track -- I switch to DTC 60 front and DTC 30 rear for track.

Overall happy with this stuff. on the street I can't seem to stress these big brakes significantly... 11.75" rotors and air ducts will do that.

 

I'm thinking of using hps in the back or the Porterfield r4s.

Was thinking about the DTC-30 for fronts but already had these polyE 's

 

Yes the BP 10 is just a street pad. I went through one all the way down to the metal in 1/2 of one track day.

 

Indeed. As I mentioned, I use it on the street and in aggressive street driving I've had no issues, and the one Autox I went to also didn't stress it significantly.

Did you have brake ducts on your car when you used the BP10's on track?

 

No, I had only just installed the 11.75 brakes I was assured that the BP tens would get me through the weekend before I could upgrade.

 

Reading through your thread, very nice work man. You've had setbacks but stayed with it, right on.

For brakes, I plan to pickup 11.75 fronts (have sport rears on hand) as well and I've heard the XP8 suggested a lot.

 

Honestly I owe a lot to the support of folks on this site as well as Braineack and all the guru's who've been able to offer constructive guidance. This car functions only because of the knowledge found here.



Happy Friday everyone


The other half is still in the trunk, outside, in the rain, at work.

 

 

I about had a seizure looking at the paper it's sitting on.

nooooooo thank you.

 

Ach mensch. Schadenfreude ist die schönste Freude.

 

Just a one-dimensional homogeneous boundary-value problem in a finite medium. I just put my coffee mug on it, and I don't drink coffee.

 

Better than my friend's car at least. His key is broken off in the ignition. It has become a pass time for my friends and I to move it in parking lots when he isn't looking.

 

This happened to me four years ago. Disassembling an ignition cylinder was not my idea of fun.