No no, you are correct. The thermostat is coupled a couole inches after the coolant outlet on the back of the block.

I see. Both pieces required. Thanks again. I thought the outlet looked a little small to fit a thermostat into, but thought it was an illusion. Again, nice build.

I want to build a spare block just in case. I picked up a bare block for 40 bux. I need a crank and will try to get all the parts to a machine shop for assembly. Ordering parts soon and thinking about a 949Racing CNC head.


edit: oh man, I think my EFR just blew. Looks like I may need a new block sooner than I thought

So I was driving home from Baltimore and noticed the car wouldn't go into boost. It did make a pretty soft howl and thought it was a boost leak. I inspected the piping and couldn't find anything until I looked down the turbo inlet. Picture soon....

Everything has been working fine until randomly I couldn't make boost. What causes this? Roasted bearings? Everything spins freely, but the shaft seems bent. I wonder if the turbine blades broke, causing the whole rotating assembly to go out of balance, allowing the compressor wheel to grind into the housing.

Thinking about quitting miatas.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...921_210141-jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...921_214523-jpg

Ahhhh man.... I can't believe your luck.

I bet the shaft is busted. Does the turbine wheel turn when you spin the compressor? The earliest EFRs were known for munching shafts/turbine wheels/everything.

compressor wheel turns, but it looks out of balance/wobbly. I couldn't dig my fingers to reach the turbine; it looks intact on the shaft though.

Seriously having to re-do everything is such a turn off. I almost don't want to undergo this anymore. All those aluminum shavings in the charge pipes and intercooler or whatever the motor has now ingested... It was utterly fantastic while it lasted. I just don't know if I have the will anymore

Check throttle body for missing screws?

I hope we're both wrong, but that's all I can think of as well.

The motor is completely roasted. Cylinder head damage, looks like detonation eroded the piston. This build is fucked.

I already ordered internals for a spare block, but didn't factor in the cost of a head. I think I may have to let this one go.

Maybe.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...82328318_n-jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...34538623_n-jpg


cylinder 4
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...44547974_n-jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...90396046_n-jpg

Damn...sorry Psyber. Maybe take a break and clear the head for a while so you aren't so close to it. That has helped me big time when I get fed up with stuff.

Props for carnage pics.

Sorry to hear man.

So....


I ordered some parts but I'm not sure if I should be concerned. Supertech 84mm pistons 8.6:1 compression.

They look a lot shinier than I've ever seen in any photos. Is is possible that they missed the coating process? It doesn't even have any of their traditional logos or diameter markings. Maybe they aren't as flat or grey as I made them out to be?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...929_191331-jpg

Purchased a vvt head off 18psi. Going to ditch the Toyota cops unless I get ultra creative with mounting. Any recommendations for what to run instead?


LS2? Fab9? Find a stock system and wire in somehow?

Nb2 coils simili cops system is doing great in my car but I don't know with boost....

I may end up going with the Fab9 kit for now. I don't have the resources or patience to adapt LSx coils at the moment. I'm going to pull the Supertech valvetrain off my old head and order replacement valves for the new VVT head and an inner spring kit to upgrade the seat pressure.

I have to figure out a way to pull the clutch out of the block so it can be balanced with the rest of the new motor.

Very nice.
I was gonna say: have the head re-surfaced or at least inspected before you drop it in, but looks like you're going above and beyond with it, should be great.

it'll give me time to source connectors and get all the ms3 stuff sorted. I don't want to revisit it again later on. Thinking about a larger throttle body and having the squaretop matched but haven't decided yet.

With the right bit, it's <10 minutes with a dremel to match a squaretop to a skunk2 throttle body. But then, I guess it depends on how big you plan to go.

Skunk2 was pretty much the only consideration. I'm holding of for the moment till I get the small odds and ends in. Motor and head take priority, the car is still fun on stock throttle body.

Have to sell a couple parts first and really figure out what I need to do for knock module/ms3

Ok, so I've been cruzing through your thread to steal ideas, and I just noticed the Racing Beat oil sandwich adapter. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that feeding unfiltered oil to the turbo?

That's only being used for oil pressure sensors and temp. Turbo feed is 1/8 npt to -6an 90 degree

I'm getting rid of the sandwich plate since I have a 94 block being machined. I'll be tapping the oil pan for temp and souring the oil and coolant from the driver side.


When running an oil cooler, do folks get rid of the stock oil-coolant heat exchanger?

Ahh, ok. My apologies for assuming, thank you for clearing that up :bigtu: You should sell me your old oil feed after you get that 94 block together.

You want it? seriously. I'm making another line for this and was debating cutting this up for the ends. I could just sell to you for the parts cost including the 90° and the bspt-npt adapter. What fitting are you using on the turbo?

So. Full-Race lists the efr6258 and the efr6758 with respective coatings and exhaust housings for the same price. Is there any reason to shift to the 6758 if i plan to only run pump gas?

More headroom is a nice free option, but maybe the 6258 is more than enough.

Machine shop hasn't touched anything yet. I need to find a way to get my clutch and flywheel out of the car but don't have an engine hoist. Anyone in Northern VA can lend a hand?

I think the only reason to go 6758 is if you track your car a lot/want the extra headroom to go bigger with your build.

I see the 6258 spinning really high often if on the track, causing more heat than you'd want. Of course that is all conjecture on my part.

For Autocross/daily, the 6258 would be perfect.

if it was my money, I'd get the 67

because power addiction is a real thing, and many of us suffer from it.

This is why I did NOT get the 67.

Props for pushing through the setbacks. I may have missed it, but what was the cause of the mystery oil leak?

The oil leak was the galley plug behind the oil and water pumps. It was loose presumably because the machine shop didn't remove and replace during hot tanking. Pulled the motor several times to find this out. From now on if not threading and plugging, at least replace.

I pulled the motor out today, and recovered the clutch to send to the machine shop. Before I do, I had a revelation.


I'm using a Competition Clutch Stage 4 which is a 6 puck on a sprung hub. Now on the website it lists its torque capacity as being 225lb/ft. This seems rather low compared to comparable counterparts in industry. I mean FM stage 2 is 318lb/ft using an organic disk. When the car was on the dyno, it didn't seem to be slipping, but I don't know what will happen if I run ALL OF IT with built VVT motor and a 6758.

Being that money and time is tight, should I just run what I have? if it starts slipping, detune and be happy where the car is (replace clutch as needed in future). Or should I just delay everything by a month, and and just get a proper clutch for whatever mystery power goal I'll reach?

225lb? are you sure? I've never seen a pucked clutch rated so low that wasn't some ebay special pile of garbage. If it indeed is only good for that torque rating, you need to replace it asap and save yourself the trouble of doing it twice.

Some sites like gomiata and jscspeed lists the torque capacity as a percentage (250%)

yet this thing just says "225"

Competition Clutch - Stage 4 - 6 Pad Ceramic - Mazda Miata 1.8L 1994-2005 - Competition Clutch SuperStore By Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC



I'm fighting a battle of just getting the car together running, or spending more money on it with the potential it's just going to break in some other way. It'll drive with what I have, but like you said, I'd probably be revisiting this if it is indeed underrated.

Alright, just a quick update:

Everything is at the machine shop. I just need to get the old crank scraper off the old block and weld a bung (or just straight up tap) to the oil pan for the oil temp sensor. I'm getting rid of a sandwich adapter and will try to utilize as much of the block orifiaces as possible. I may even tidy up the hoses and draw coolant straight from the heater core. I harvested the old supertech valvetrain and just need to extract the spring seats. That'll offer a few more shims to spec valve/cam clearances. I ordered new oversized supertech valves and inner springs and will shuffle that off to the machine shop when it arrives with the VVT head (thanks Vlad).

I think I've decided to purchase a super-core from either full-race or treadstone. It's about $400 cheaper and my exhaust housing could be reused for either the 6258 or 6758 format. It's already ceramic coated and didn't undergo much damage since the brittle Gamma TiAl turbine was on the loosing end against cast stainless. Still up for debate is if i stay with 6258 or 6758. Spool for dual purpose or plan for future track rat if I get a dedicated daily.

The extra cash would allow me to get a Skunk2 throttle body and send the intake manifold off at the same time as the head for cleaning.

I got rid of the Mishimoto in anticipation of the SuperMiata radiator, but that looks like its on the back burner for 949Racing. May have to run a stocker in the interim. I have a couple more parts to sell but as for now, it looks like it'll be about a month before the motor is ready to drop in.

In the mean time I'll have to wire things for sequential and transfer the 4 tooth trigger wheel on my SuperMiata damper (thanks joyrider).

I noticed a lot of transmission fluid in the bell housing. Does anyone have any experience in replacing the main seal on the input shaft? I'll try to clean it up and see if it's something I can tackle on my own, or if I should just avoid the headache and start looking for a spare (it's getting a bit crunchy in 5th).

I'm starting to get that tingling excitement of anticipation again. Thanks to those who put up with my questions and who've helped me with parts thus far. Hopefully I'll be able to pay it forward to the community in the near future.

You mean this radiator?
SuperMiata Crossflow aluminum radiator Miata 90-05
That is available for pre-order and should be shipping this month. Unless I am missing something.

Yea I was just referencing it off their other pre-order stuff like Tecnas due for 'late October' delivery since they haven't really updated since August. It's already near the end of the month for this piece but I'll give them benefit of the doubt. Doesn't matter really, the rad will probably come in by the time I'm ready to swap the new stuff in.

Our Crossflow are on a boat headed towards port of Los Angeles. Tecnas and 15x8 shipment are a bit behind schedule.

Flip the neck around and weld a barb on the front.

If I recall, I tried this and there was some additional grinding that needed to happen with some weird fitment issues since it would be sharing space with my hotside charge pipe.

I ended up just having an MSM inlet (they are offset) cut and rotated down some 40° iirc

can be seen here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...f2ed8eee_c-jpg


Thanks Emilio, greatly appreciated for the update.

I have not touched the car in over a month. I'm really struggling to find motivation.

As it sits, I might just sell everything in one go.

I have a fresh built short block, balanced and blue printed. Details:

94 Block
84mm Supertech 8.6:1 pistons
Eagle Rods
ACL Race bearings
Crank scraper
Oil Pan tapped

I also have a VVT Head and all the +1mm valvetrain and Supertech dual springs to go with it (Waiting to be installed)

Car is prepped as seen in the thread. I do not have the EFR supercore, but can provide the exhaust housing so you can get a brand new turbo assembled cheaper than brandy new.

Honestly I'm a slave to the finances, and do not have time to keep tinkering. My dad wants this out of the garage and I'm just tired. What would a decent offer be?

aww man, that's a bummer :(

good luck man

that super sucks. If you were closer I'd buy your car in a second.

Roadtrip? :giggle:

lol if the car were together, running and sorted, and at the price he and I discussed back in January, I'd do it.

So, P, what's up? Would love to see this monster back on the road.

I dropped the head off, and it's getting done. I'll get the block and reassemble soon. I need to find a banjo bolt for the VVT feed. This is highly illusive. I also want to get a bung welded on the oil pan for oil temp. I don't want to start tee'ing everywhere on feed lines for the turbo or VVT. I'll leave the stock pressure gauge where it is, run the feed on the driver side of na8 block then measure temp at the oil pan. This will clean up a lot of clutter as well from the remote oil sender I had previously built from a grease gun hose.

I'm completely confident with the mechanical aspects of the project. I don't know if I trust myself to touch megasquirt again. I need to get the knock module still. I haven't done any wiring but VVT and the Fab9 COPS are waiting to go on (had to switch as the Toyota cops wouldn't work with the VVT cover and I'm being lazy.

I got the SuperMiata radiator in, which is exciting, but I need to find the side rails for to mount them. Unfortunately I gave away my mishimoto for use of a lift. Trying to decide if I want to keep the Flyin'Miata stg2 fan upgrade or just opt for a single fan.

The hard part....I'm in the middle of remodeling a house, literally a gutted Sears home built in 1920. I keep spending on things like... windows, a kitchen and bathroom... I'd love to get this car together in running order to drive one last time, or sell. But really, until I muster the courage to tune, or find someone who knows what they're doing, motivation is low.

Well glad to hear you still have the car, sad to hear motivation is so low. It's going to be completely epic once it's finished!! Just take your time.

Something that might possibly help would be to pick up a cheap miata to enjoy in the meantime, then work on this project as time allows. I've been thinking about doing that myself so I feel less pressure on my project and can focus on other aspects of my life.

Just a thought.

Good luck man.

Yea, I think once I have motor in hand, it'll go quick. Valve guides are out of spec so they are getting replaced. Seats are being trimmed for the +1 valvetrain. I'm getting a bit more excited to assemble the motor again and redo the plumbing so it'll look cleaner.

I just get scared about the tuning. I wonder if it's safe enough to run as is and try to fix the wastegate open to break in as though it were NA, and try to figure out VVT. Then take it to a dyno and have them do the boost.

Does anyone make a single shroud for one aftermarket fan? Then again....I may try to keep A/C

I love that you're cheap NA is twice what mine cost. I can't wait to get off the college student budget.

Ha.. Aidan, I guess cheap is relative. Considering the amount of money he has in his build, a nice clean $3-4k ish Miata would be considered cheap and fun.

P, it seems like you should be able to post your logs in the MS forums here and get some feedback. These guys can at least get you on something safe, even if it's not optimal.

I'm in kinda the same place. Its been a slow build up to getting the motor together. Once that is done and in the car, things start to move much more quickly.

I just need to resist the urge to slap it all together and roll. ;)

Looking good man, just keep the momentum. Do little bits at a time and you'll get it.

Alright, let's get this shit together.


Things I need:

1) If anyone has an old NA radiator that's kicked the bucket, can you donate the side rails/brackets toward the cause? Need 'em to mount the sexy crossflow

2) Banjo bolt for VVT feed into the block

3) Amsoil MTG

4) EFR 6258/6758 supercore

That's it I think. Just need to transfer the oil and water pump and assemble. Wire up the VVT and the knock module. Then make an appeal to the Megasquirt gurus for some serious hand holding. Motivation is growing.

Fab hooked me up with a 6758 supercore. Guess it's happening.

Perhaps picking up block and head today from machine shop

Yeesssssssss!

Banjo bolt will be in tomorrow.

Still need radiator mounting brackets from an NA radiator

Need to decide if A/C is staying or going. The FM cooling fans draw a lot when they kick on when parallel. Maybe just keep the big spal fan and ditch the shroud otherwise? Not sure what to do. It gets hot and swampy in the summer here.

From where did you order the banjo? Also, did you replace the copper washers? I need to order a set of those as well and I'm feeling lazy. ;)

I walked into Rosenthal (i'm fixing a house just down the road hence my hiatus) but they were able to locate it. It's $17. They didn't have it listed online but can order it. You can also follow this link to the part number

BOLT, CONNECTOR. OIL PUMP & FILTER for Mazda Miata (2001 - 2005). #9YA351001C


I'll probably just parts store the copper washers.

Machine shop tapped the holes on the 94 block from 1/8" BSPT to BSPP for the banjo bolt. I can send you the tap if you need to do this

Win, thanks for the link!

Wow, I had no idea it was a different thread. I don't think I've seen that documented anywhere before. I was looking at maybe taking the spare VVT oil pipe I've got in the garage, cutting it off and building an adapter to a -6 oil feed for the EFR. Now that my block is assembled, I don't think I have the testicular fortitude to run a tap into an oil galley, so that's not going to happen ;)

But hey, maybe the PN can help someone else :bigtu:

Wait...wasn't I supposed to send you my feed line?

I have the stainless adapter from 1/8" bspt to -6an all the way to the turbo

I have to rebuild a new oil line anyways since I'm using the driver side. Pay the cost of fittings and it's yours. I already have hose, just need to get fittings to make a new line for myself

I do seem to remember this... I think we both just got distracted.

Shoot me a PM with a list of parts or picture of what I'm getting and what you want for it, and lets do this thing! :party: