1/8" bspt -> 1/8" NPT SS adapter

1/8" npt -> -6AN SS adapter

-6AN SS elbow -> Aeroquip AQP socketless hose -> -6an Alu elbow

You'd just have to get the -6AN fitting for the turbo


recycling pictures:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424377425

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424377425

it's blue

It'd be about $35 in fittings for me to make a replacement for the new block, I already have hose. so....35 bux if you want my feed line?

Folks,
What's the consensus on oil temperature installation in the oil pan? Do you all just drill, tap and thread directly into the pan or is it advised/worth the extra effort to have a bung welded?

Bung.

Placement of bung should be just above the drain bolt?

I'm just putting a bung onto the Mocal oil sandwich plate.

If I recall, putting it at the sandwich adapter often reads higher temps.

If it's not a big deal, then I suppose I'll just keep using my sandwich plate, I just hate to have my gauge blinking at me after some runs; makes me think theres something wrong all the time.

I'd be a little more concerned if I hadn't just put a huge ass setrab cooler on the car, that is interesting to hear though. It can't be THAT much hotter though, have to look into it.

Wherever you put it in the oil pan make sure that with the sensor in it won't hit anything else in the engine bay. I have put them in where they end up to close to the subframe to be used.

Shit, I wish I took pictures before removing the motor.

Any recommendations?

I welded a bung just above the drain plug in the flat spot. This puts it about 1" below the baffle plate.
Used a 3/8 npt which you probably won't want to do.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424707007

The 3/8" NPT isn't a big deal as I have an adapter for it already to 1/8" NPT

You have no interference with subframe or motor mounts or anything?

That location is exactly what I had in mind, but what about oil level? Have you ever noticed temps fluctuating greatly under high revs? Or is oil temp the least of your worries if the oil level is too low to read?

To elaborate on why I said bung. Taping it works decently well for something you install once, like an oil drain. I also JB welded it in after I tapped it. But for something that will get replaced like a temp sensor its too risky. Also if you have the pan off then both bungs should be welded in.

I should have clarified that while the oil pan is finally on the engine, the engine is still on a stand. I looked over my existing engine and determined this was the best spot. I'll take another look tonight and get back to you.
I'm 99% sure that this is the best spot.

I have the pan off, the oil return was already welded but I cannot find reference for a welder that tigs locally. A lot of 'friends of a friend' who don't seem sure they can make it oil tight. I don't want to have to remove the engine for a shit weld job after dumping oil all over the place.

I'll see what bungs I have laying around and keep looking. Better do it twice, do it right, right?

Get on CL, you can find a cheap welder there.

nvm had the dumb.

Were talking about a temp sensor, not a drain.

Snapped a pic tonight of my location with the motor mount on:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424758606

Also stole a pic from google to show that you will indeed be able to fit a wrench in there:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424758606

thanks a lot!

Ordered:
New gaskets for everything VVT related
Pesky 1/8" BSPP banjo bolt to block
New OEM exhaust Studs/nuts
O-rings galore for Oil/VVT stuff
DIYautotune MS3 Knock Module


Looking for:
Aluminum welder for bung
pigtail for knock sensor
help tuning



Should I bother painting the assembled short block, or just leave it flakey and as is. I didn't have time to paint before machine took it in and balanced everything. I may reuse the same water feed from the back of the head as I previously had instead of building another line to the side of the block. Not sure.

Still need to assemble a new oil line, so that requires fittings.

Reading Jeffs thread it seems that a sandwich plate is just as good as a pan temp sensor, and easier.

Then I need a new sandwich adapter. Mine is sealed by a thin o-ring which was prone to leaking.

I was thinking of an oil cooler in the future and wasn't sure if I were comfortable with stacking endless adapters. heat exchanger (remove this?) - > sandwich plate - > oil cooler plate

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425056172

Supercore came in with aluminum bearing housing. Assembled it to the old exhaust housing from the blown 6258. Turbo is back in business. Waiting on some hose ends, gaskets, and some other studs/nuts from mazda. As soon as I get an engine stand, I'm going to start assembling.

Awww yissss!

Do you still have the blown center from the old one? I'm curious what the weight difference is.

I do have both both. But there are bits and pieces missing off the old. FAB says there's about a 5lb difference.

That's significant. The B1 frame EFR with the steel core is not a lightweight. I'm glad my manifold is pretty beefy.

So it's begun...again


Transferred the Boundary Engineering pump and Cast water pump
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425615436

Eagle Rods, Supertech pistons, ACL race bearings, Cranks scraper, fully balanced rotating assembly, new seals everywhere, AN fittings on block for oil/water to turbo, oil port tapped from 1/8" BSPT to BSPP for banjo bolt to supply VVT solenoid
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425615436

Head was cleaned and cut for +1mm for both intake and inconel exhaust valves. Supertech dual spring valvetrain with titanium retainers. Installed new cam seals, replaced the manifold studs.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425615436

Once again, this thread delivers. Good luck mang!

engine's looking glorious

I love the non-potato photos. Looks awesome, can't wait to see it going.

I don't have the time nor the temperatures to paint the block. I'm leaving it natural and just want to get it running. I'm waiting for a shop to get back to me on the bung welding for oil pan before flipping the motor around for the head to be installed.


What is the consensus on cylinder walls. Clean off all grease/oil and make it bone dry for break in or leave it slightly lubricated?

Right now some assembly lube is literally applied to help suspend dust

I think you should try and paint the block. It only took me a day to do it, including cleaning. And my motor had been rallycrossed. It stops rust and looks way cleaner.

Never leave the walls bone dry.
Clean all the old gunk off, then lightly lube the walls before throwing in the pistons

Pistons are installed already, there's just some assembly lube slathered on the walls. Give it a good wipe down to take the excess off and hope for the best (but not fully degrease)?

I think the rings are already lubricated, but I just didn't feel confident about the amount of residual oil left in the cylinders. "Bob" said he did this to trap whatever dust might collect before assembly even though it was bagged. This is the same shop that assembled Soviets miracle motor.

Does your IJ crank scraper contact the windage tray on the backside? Like, have you set the tray on the block yet?

I harvested it off the previous motor, it looked like it cleared. This time around, I did make note to grind the corner a small bit by the rear main seal.

I'll be shipping your oil line today.

Humm... mine seems to contact the OEM windage tray on the backside, to the point where the bolt holes in the pan rail are ever so slightly off. Its going to make installing the pan and tray a bastard unless I subtly bend the tray to change the radius, but that sounds like all kinds of fail. Not sure what to do here :sad2:

:bigtu:

Is there some wiggle room if you loosen the main studs and try to push the frame of the scraper in closer to the center of the block? IIRC you have the Teflon version right? you may need to trim more. How bad of a radius? doesn't seem too bad except they are dissimilar metals and you don't want the tray to start wearing/vibrating into your pan, and introducing some new aluminum goodies into your oil

I leave two bolts threaded on the oil pan flange in the reverse direction to align and hold the windage tray in place. Once the oil pan is on and bolted down everywhere else, I back them out and replace them right side down.

So I think I might have overtorqued the oil pan. The rear oil pan seal, while in, is bulging a bit from the keyed area. I don't know if it'll cause a huge problem, it's still seated but I just don't know. I'd like to avoid taking the whole oil pan off and spending a day cleaning again.

Maybe I take a picture later. I'm tired of this (which is making me impatient)

Head is already on and torqued. Motor is going to be difficult to flip around

I'm waiting for a coolant bypass tube before I can make more headway on this.

Braineak has clarified a bunch of wiring stuff for me regarding spark and fuel.

I think VVT solenoid should be easy to connect too. Find power from injector harness, and ground to the MS3X vvt wire?

Knock stuff I still need to figure out. Does it also grab power from injector or spark and then ground at the MS3x?

Buh.

I'm second guessing whether or not I should tap the oil source on the driver side of the block since I'm using an early bottom end. Does anyone think this will cause oil pressure issues for lubricating the rear main bearing?

You have a Boundary pump, right? So not only more oil because VVT pump, but more oil volume and pressure again because Boundary. Mazda chose to do it from the factory and they have way more R&D capabilities than the rest of us do so that helps me sleep at night. If I had an early 1.8 block I'd use it no question.

But that's just me, and i r not smrt. Perhaps more folks can chime in.

+1 to all that

Well, I suppose you're right. It's got 1 shim as well and is an extreme pump. Fluids are incompressible so whatever pressure drop would probably be more from the relief valve than local proportioning...maybe

I am building a new oil and water line, you will probably have a pretty close to complete oil and water kit coming your way.

The water lines are braided, and the feed is the blue one as you've seen. I'm just converting to all Aeroquip/socketless except for coolant return

Saturday turned out to be hellish. I removed the water pump because I wasn't confident that the gasket had sealed properly and it was cocked a couple millimeters too high on the right side. I replace the gasket and started tightening the bolts. The head sheared with almost no resistance. I really don't think I hamfisted it because I was just going to snug them before I brought the torque wrench out. This was this first bolt, didn't even bother with the rest.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426512232

I used a center punch and drilled a pilot hole, then proceeded to carefully destroy an easy out as they always break and I don't even know why I bothered. I took a dremel to cut a slot to dry to use a screw driver, but I had taken a lot of material out, it started to flare. I refaced it, cut it flat and drilled another pilot hole. I thought about using another easy out, but since this was right at the block surface, I wasn't comfortable breaking another one in.

I decided to continue drilling, stepping up the size every so often. After a while, I could tell the hole was no longer concentric. After destroying four grinding bits and a carbide bit for a dremel, I started to step up to larger drill sizes. A broken drill bit later, I was able to fish out most of the parts driving a punch into the hole fracturing the bit further and picking it out. Finally, I used a tap drill bit for m8x1.25 and was able to loosen some material whilst drilling. I ran a tap through to chase the threads and recovered most of the hole.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426512283

The threads are really tender; I was not comfortable driving another bolt in. I wasn't confident on how much material there was to try to helicoil it without breaking into the waterjacket so I decided with much reluctance to stud the hole. That way tension is applied by nut, but no torsion is wearing on the thread. Oh man, I hope I don't regret this decision later. Everything after all said and done torqued to spec.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8590/...36c7e49f_c.jpg









Machine shop was closed, so I had to press hose ends into AQP socketless hose by hand. I hated life.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426512232



Assembled some bits.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426512232

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426512232


Exploring the idea of passing wires or vacuum source behind the black plate where the coolant neck would have been. Still deciding on A/C. I also need to figure out the air filter. I am still waiting on the coolant bypass hose before I can wrap the engine up and slap it to the transmission. Also waiting on a brandy new timing belt and pulley from Fab. I just realized all parts for this replacement build has been purchased through Fab9.


With Braineack's guidance, I flipped the fuel injector wires and separated cylinder 4 and 2 to wire into injector C and D respectively. Maybe this car will finally have sequential bits.

I reverted to the stock NB trigger system so if anyone wants a 36-1 trigger wheel for a superdamper, just pay shipping.

Intake manifold is installed. VVT solenoid is wired.

Is there polarity for the knock sensor? I wire to 12V, then the other wire is grounded at the megasquirt?

I'm tired. I feel like something is wrong but I cannot place it. I think I'm just getting used to the failure.

I thought the NB1 and NB2 had sequential injection from the factory? Edit: sorry, comprehension fail. I forgot you were in an NA chassis :bang: Carry on

Good progress though, that sheared bolts like that are the kinds of things I have nightmares about.

G: NB1 is definitely sequential from factory. Can't imagine NB2 would not be. Maybe he means at the MS?

P: By "flipped the fuel injector wires", do you mean bringing them straight in from the back of the engine instead of running them to the front, and then to the back? Pics would be great, unless obvious, as that is on my list.

According to Scott, for an NA6, the fuel and spark wiring are as follows:

INJ A - 2 & 4
INJ B - 1 & 3

Spark A - 2 & 3
Spark B - 1 & 4

For fuel, I needed to split the wire pairs, leaving cylinder 2 and 4 as orphan wires, then swap the wires such that Injector A corresponded to cylinder 1.

I was confused at first, but if anything is messed up, I can always fiddle with the wires down at the ecu harness end.

For spark, I'll just run fresh wire in the arrangement as posted above.

Be careful if you are wiring up the knock sensor. Some things in the ECU use 5v and some use 12v. I'm not sure what the knock sensor uses but it would be prudent to check first.

Propped for not giving up and for taking pics of the debacle.

Good call, thanks for that insight. Do you know if the Mazda OEM knock sensors changed voltage requirements between years? I'm using a stock one in stock location, but not sure what the p/n is

Unless I should just switch to a Bosch unit that DIY recommends


Also, I have a set of FAB9 COPS, but am unsure if I should try them out, or just find a set of stock 01-05 coils. ideas?

The two friends who offered to help out today flaked out.

I ended up doing it myself. Every single time, aligning those engine mounts and trying to get the PPF in place with urethane diff bushings is extremely difficult. It's even worse when you don't have a second set of hands. It took two hours to put the motor in.

I'll finish the wiring another time

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426972054

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426972054

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426972054

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426972054


I got a new filter, but it looks a bit small. But it fits really nicely. Shit. I hope it's ok

Yesterday I modified the FM fan shroud to fit the Supermiata radiator. Such a beautiful radiator, so light.

Plugged in all the electrics, but still need to get off my ass about the injectors/spark wiring. I was getting tired and jaded. I threw in two bottles of trans fluid and forgot that I didn't install the drive shaft yet.

2 bags of kitty litter and some grunting, drive shaft is in. I feel like I've bruised my tail bone from crawling out and under my car so many times.

I seriously hope this things works. I'll have to tow it to a shop if anything weird happens. I can't do it another time (won't have the facility/space/motivation)

The MSM coolant bypass hose I purchased never came in so I just reused the old cut up stock bit.


I just have to add trans fluid again, solder some wires for the ignition/spark, put the interior back and maybe tidy up some sensor wires.

Hopefully it starts this week, weathers been a real motivator, and a lot of stuff has been completed with the house renovation.

I've been remodeling a house so that's taken quite a bit of time. Tiled the kitchen and bathroom, got new cabinets, painted the walls, fixed the trim, replaced the windows, removed 1.5tons of cracked cast iron radiators, contractors came in and replaced all the wiring and plumbing in the house, and finally cleared the floors so the 95 year old hardwood can get resurfaced and stained.

That means, I have time to touch Smurfette in all the right ways. I already wired the injectors, knock, and vvt stuff thanks for Scott's guidance and help with megasquirt. I just have to join a couple wires for the tach, and essentially wire in the FAB9cops and clean up. I'd like to see this running this weekend.

So I got everything wired in and am having difficulty building pressure. I don't remember if I packed the oil pump before install. It's been so long and it's been apart so many times. Any easy way to get the oil pressure up before starting?

I was really hoping to start it up this weekend.

Do you have a mity-vac or similar tool? Put it on the turbo oil feed or hook it up to the block via the oil sensor hole and pump away.

Also, check dis: TwinTurbo.NET: Nissan 300ZX forum - Simple rig to prime your oil pump

Oh man after a lot of finagling, I was able to break that allan plug free on the oil pump to pour some oil in. Now to reassemble all the bits and see if it holds pressure.

I hope I hadn't turned the motor over too many times without it drawing oil. I really don't want to ruin the bearings this early in the game

Oh crap, that's awesome. If this doesn't work, I'l have to try that

So I think I have oil pressure, when cranking, the oem gauge pops up to the 15 psi mark.

The motor isn't turning over though. I have the fuel lines hooked up properly. When running the test mode for spark, the Fab9 coils work, but if I'm touching the top of the coil, it grounds out to my finger through the heat shrink wrap. Injectors are working.
Test outputs confirmed

Spark A B C D = 1342

Inj A B C D = 1342

edit: I got the car running, but it's really lumpy and it's super pig rich. I can't set base timing very easily as it jumps around as it's sputtering.

Edit edit: cam timing is off on both cams. No clue why, I thought I was careful. Will correct and fix idle. Then try to get it not running piggy rich to break in