Nice. How are you connecting the AN lines to the hardlines.

If they are poly bushing arms then yes, add zerks.

Hey Cyber that is definitely an awsome car, so fast. You have set a new build standard for me I think. Great to meet the mind behind it too, it was a blast!

On the tank side, it'll probably just be -6AN to barb fitting with some synthetic rubber hose coupling to the pump/return.

The -6AN lines are 120" so they'll run to the front of the car, to the regulator and the rail. I think I'll be using the FM dual feed rail since everything is packaged to accept AN fittings, but for the stock rail, I imagine one could use the 5/16" SAE to AN adapter, but the return from the NB pulse damper/fpr might be tight. I'll post parts and final configuration when I turn the car down for a couple weeks. There will be multiple projects at the same time including sending my exhaust back to Abe/Artech for some mods and a new QUIETER MT.net approved muffler.


Let's do it again!

Ahh, didn't know you were running AN6 the whole way, thought you were doing hardline stuff.

I'm using an adapter that goes from the stock FPR port to NPT, and then putting a NPT to AN adapter.

Its a turbosmart TS-0402-1002

Here is my crazy spreadsheet of all my fuel system stuffs.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

It includes bulkhead fittings to run AN lines all the way to the pump.

Hey, question. Friend of mine has a 1.6L Miata right now with the MSM trans and diff. It wears an FM turbo kit and is tuned on an MS2e I believe. He recently wrecked it on the track so being rebuilt at Planet Miata ATM but he wants to build a 1.6 in the meantime, and I'm trying to convince him to build a 1.8 instead. Aside from having to change the manifold, what else would he have to do? I know the head won't fit, so he'd need a long block 1.8. He already has the 949racing mounts, which probably wouldn't fit either.

For the most part just exhaust and engine mounts. There will be little things like wiring, intake piping, but nothing huge.

Tell him I'll buy his 949 1.6 mounts asap.

Is there a downside to not bending/running hardlines? I just figured the braided AN hose will over more flexible routing and potentially fewer failure points. The only gripe I have at the moment is the placement of the FPR on the NA8 rail on the NB motor with a Square Top. That manifold eats up space.

No braided is fine. I just mean stock hardlines, which is what I'm planning on running at the moment.

I typed up a long response, but I decided to just cut to the chase as Aidan already addressed it beautifully.

3 wires - 1.6L TPS to 1.8L TPS
2 wires - VVT (optional)
4 wires (optional) - 1.6L CAS to NB style Crank/Cam sensor
2-4 wires - Ignition depending on whether keeping batch or going sequential


So a 1.8L would take modifying 5-15 wires. And engine mounts. If ignition wiring is too scary, which it shouldn't be, then he can always just use his stock cas on the exhaust side of any 1.8L.

Technically he could still use the 1.6L alternator, waterpump pulley but I don't know why that'd be a benefit. I'll do the wiring in an evening if he builds the 1.8L

Oh yea, the primary reason for this fuel upgrade really is to get rid of the old lines that have suffered 23 years of New England winters. I'm not savvy with hardline bending and am still not certain if I'm mounting this by the firewall or elsewhere.

Either way, tell him to sell me his 949 mounts.

And sell the 949 mounts because he won't be able to reuse them on the 1.8

(Aidan you have 1.aids L? :likecat:)

Yes. For the time being. I have 2 non-functional vvt engines in my garage. And not enough funds.

How much does it cost to set up a diff? I got a quote of $500 (I'm supplying parts sans shims).

Clutch is also engaging quite high and at times I wonder if I even need to press the pedal to shift. Maybe I'll bleed the brakes, but I fear maybe it's time for a new clutch.

Not sure if I'll return to the Competition Stage 4. Any ideas?

I have a feeling my car is going to have some serious down time with a clutch job, diff, subframe, control arm and fuel mods to be done.

I need to tidy up the cold side intercooler piping and then start looking for a place to fix some rust.

Ed got his setup for $300 I believe. Call around.

Twin disc, do eeet.

That's a lot of dosh. How long they last? I think the only other option I have is the ACT XTG6 6 puck sprung.

How often do folks JUST replace the clutch disk and resurface flywheel? It seems components are floating around as though you can replace bits separately.

The ceramic is supposed to last forever. Organic not super long. I just got new friction material on my discs for $100.

I don't see why you couldn't just replace the disc.

FWIW I'm going to buy and install that puck disk on my ACT extreme pressure plate sometime. Mine slips with the organic disk now. I'm keeping the stock flywheel weight so no twin disk for me.

That might be the cheapest option, but not sure if I feel comfortable mixing and matching clutch disks with the Competition Clutch Pressure Plate. Once I finish the flex-fuel conversion, I'm sure that the discs competition clutch offer won't hold.

Might be better for me to invest in the ACT. My flywheel has already been resurfaced once, is there a limit or thickness measurement one should abide by? Or FM Happy Meal 2 for daily drivability



I have a spare valve cover to powdercoat. Opinions on colors? candy purple, bright orange, puke green, white, classic/black/red, others?

Yeah, don't send it to BEGI. :bang:

I've always been a fan of wrinkle red and wrinkle black when done correctly.

I think Begi stopped coating because they couldn't get it right.


Before the diff is built, is it a big deal using a new Mazda Distance Piece over the Weir solid pinion spacer? My gut says no, but I feel like if I'm dropping dosh on this OSGiken and 3.63 rear, if there's benefit then it'll justify a $50 investment

By that logic, they should stop everything

:giggle:

Hey at least the hoses were cut the right length.

:vash2:

Looks like I won't be getting the Solid Pinion Spacer after all. Diff is already done and built.

God damn customer service and one day turn around time.

That's like, a terrible problem, yea? lol.

If only most shops were that on top of it.

Yea, their courtesy left no room for impulsiveness and mind changing.

hahahahhaa

those jerks

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Gotta get the old busings air hammered out of the diff. I ordered the rest of the AN fittings and lines for my fuel upgrade.

Also ordered an ACT XTG6 clutch to replace the Competition Stage 4. The light weight flywheel in the car has been resurfaced once already. Should I have it surfaced again or is there a particular threshold measurement to determine how much use it'll have left?

Or should I just invest in another flyweel....

Zerk fittings are coming in next week. I need to get wheel bearings and hubs for the knuckles then the v8roadster suspension bits are ready to go in.

Oh I need to get a steering rack, forgot about that

I didn't get a full understanding of your thoughts on the 6-puck Comp Stg 4 clutch/pp. I've got one still in the box that I'm about to put in for my 350whp build. Bryan at Fab9 seems to have had good luck with it, but I haven't seen too many other reviews.

Clutch works fine, but it's starting to slip in third under load. Or I think it is. I had a friend who had theirs for 5000 miles and it's roasted.

I just ordered a new clutch to have on hand in case it finally fails. I have another 6 speed I want to switch to and will replace the clutch with a higher torque rating if/when I run Flex Fuel.

The ACT XTG6 is advertised to hold 400 ft-lbs torque. I'm sure I'm going to hate my life driving this to work

i did

Contact the flywheel manufacturer. Each one will have a spec. The clutch shop I had my shit done at also told me how much could be taken off

Is there a wiser choice for the application? I suppose looking at the everyday target torque the car makes will open more options like the FM happy meal 2, but I just don't want the clutch to fry if running some blend with e85.




I have to really work hard at remembering which one I got. My memory isn't what it used to be when I was a young whipper snapper

Twin disc :)

Shouldn't it say on it? When you pull it out?

Will the twin disc actually be any better with engagement?

There where no marks last time I removed it. It looks like an ACT streetlite/FM 10.5 lb/competition clutch 10.3 lb flywheel. It's probably the same exact flywheel for all three

Last twin disk I drove was also harsh in traffic and daily driving.

But still better than the xtg6 junk

FML

Maybe I'll just get Happy Meal 2 and forget about e85

if e85 is not inconvenient for you to run, why not just keep midrange the same and just taper boost up toward redline? I've done this plenty of times before to preserve clutch/transmission/rear end - you get warp speed top end without overwhelming the clutch at high load

I guess I missed the part where you're still running pump gas. E85 should provide a generous helping on top of that. What boost level were you at for the 350whp?

Maybe I'm letting my paranoia get the best of me; worrying a about a problem that isn't a problem yet. I'll cancel the clutch order and re ask this question once I know for sure how it'll act. Thanks for insights and recommendations. This forum keeps me on track even though there's always more to think about. I think quiet days at work during the holidays makes me more impulsive than usual.

~23 psi
Just read through your build, looks pretty awesome! I wish I could have had some port work done on the head but I was under a time constraint. What c/r are you using?




The diff is ready to go with new urethane bushings. I just gotta get axles then there rear is ready to roll.

I <3 This build.

The port work was kind of a bonus. I'm hoping it will be a noticeable gain and reduce the boost pressure needed to make 350-400, but we'll see.

I think I got the 9.0:1 Pistons. My heart really wanted to go high compression and not worry #becauseE85, but I felt like this was reasonable compromise.

I'll definitely be keeping an eye on this build, it's certainly impressive!

I got a DW300 fuel pump in the mail today but they sent the one for the NA8. What's the difference? Can I still run this? Assuming it's something with the connector. Can I just run the plug that's wired up to the Walbro 190?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1452372277


Parts hoarding

What are the rod ends for?

I just came so much!


Will that help eliminate wheel hop?

Lots of win! I'm quite jealous.

We can no longer be friends, our friendship is very costly for me when you do things like this, :)

seriously amazing. wow.

dis gon b gud. :likecat:

Rear is ready to go in, I just need to get off my lazy ass and press the bearing into the knuckle and the wheel studs through the hubs. Shit I forgot, I still need to press in the knuckle upper pillowball bushing.

Right now the exhaust is off to Abe for some modification. I'm having a slashcut bung welded to the exhaust to provide vacuum for a catch can. Probably plug the PCV side all together and widen the driver side vent. PCV + check valve isn't quite working well unless I run another dedicated catch can. With cooler temps out, oil vapor is condensing all over the engine bay and dripping onto the exhaust manifold. I can see it and smell it and there are no other leaks.

Rod ends I'm just experimenting with mimicking the canon brace without having to weld the last two attachment points. I'll also need to change an exhaust hanger since this is an NB rear. OSGiken takes some crazy syrup: 80w-250. Damn.

I'm lazy. It's cold outside. My car is in pieces in the dirt.

In for canon brace mimicking.

mmmmmmmm

I legit got hard from this pic.

We'll see how long it takes for me to install it.

I need to find a depowered NB rack

I might have you covered for that.

That is truly awsome Psyber, and I bet expensive. But definitely worth it!

Questionable. I should really stop spending money on this car and focus on other things in life.

I'm just finding more ways to put off rust repair. Actually currently I'm fighting county for the past couple months for permits and zoning because I simply want to replace my rotted columns on the house. I wish I had more time for car.

I feel your pain. I have been attempting to start renovation on my front porch, along with some new stairs and cheek wall. This started back in October. Such is life in a historic district.