https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1ff7402261.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...451b6d4226.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c28ce45bc0.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f9ba35c5d1.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7ad5e0f7d9.jpg Riddle me this. .... The Ring and pinion look pretty good. No chunks missing. So what causes axles to remain stationary when a driveshaft continues to spin? |
If the R&P are still rigidly attached to their respective shafts/carriers, perhaps, by complete coincidence, its two sheared-but-still-in-the-boot CV joints at the diff?
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Broken shit inside the differential itself, stripped splines, ect...
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Updated pics. The axles where fine, stubs weren't spinning with driveshaft. The axles were removed easily and splines look alright.
Is it friction material? Can OSGiken be rebuilt? From OSGiken website
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The problem is inside, which doesn’t surprise me. I can’t say I have seen broken ring and pinion gears in 1.8 Miata diffs as long as I have been on this forum. |
Yep, saw a broken carrier once tho.
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Has anyone ever heard of pinion splines shearing?
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Not yet, is that the problem?
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Not in miatas but it happens in the diesel truck world sometimes
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What's the rebuild schedule supposed to be on one of these? I think the axle splines would shear before the pinion failed. If I were a betting man I'd check your belleville preload washers for any obvious fractures or plastic deformation and if you open it up probably good to inspect spider gears as well. Maybe you got really really really lucky and someone goofed on the heat treatment leading to both sides failing simultaneously.
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Originally Posted by Spaceman Spiff
(Post 1498456)
What's the rebuild schedule supposed to be on one of these? I think the axle splines would shear before the pinion failed. If I were a betting man I'd check your belleville preload washers for any obvious fractures or plastic deformation and if you open it up probably good to inspect spider gears as well. Maybe you got really really really lucky and someone goofed on the heat treatment leading to both sides failing simultaneously.
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Check out this video I think he does a pretty good job of explaining.
I think (but have absolutely never torn one of these apart before) that want to check those conical "spring" washers on the outside to see of they are indeed still spring-y enough to preload & are whole, and the inside spider gears for any visible cracking or pitting. The one thing you do need however is the torque pattern/specs to put it all back together but I imagine OS Giken provides this. |
I saw that video and it is definitely informative. If it is the diff, I'm still surprised since I haven't read a case of this diff failing other than in a 1300hp skyline
Found a video on YouTube, my axles where definitely locked in but this is what it does and what it sounds like. |
So after seeing Aidan's twisted axle boot, James pointed out to me that mine had looked the same. If the CV popped apart (which it did when trying to remove it), would that leave the other wheel stranded since there isn't enough resistance for the LSD to function properly?
I'll admit, at this point I'm stumped and may have overlooked the overlooked this detail. I didn't see the axles moving, but perhaps in the cloak of night, the stub was spinning in place, with the boot dragging behind, slipping at the steel clamp, twisting, but not tearing. Is it worth the effort to reinstall and just try a new set of axles? Or should I have a shop inspect the lash and all that crap while it's out. |
You don't have to reinstall. Just stick the axles in the end and sping the pinion while it's out of the car.
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depends how much effort you want to put in.
imho... something should be visibly wrong if its not moving at all. |
Or check your axles. Mine was very obviously broken.
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@Shibby do you remember if we checked if the axle splines where spinning when we rotated the pinion?
One axle is for sure popped apart, I thought it was because I was yanking on it for removal. But James pointed out the boot was twisted up before we even dropped the diff. I thought that the accordion part was just kinked from lifting the car. I didn't even think the cv was busted. I may have seen the shaft stationary, but didn't confirm the driver side stub. I knew the passenger side stub and axle didn't move. But I feel like when manually checking the ends, I could pop it back in and it felt engaged. Advanced Auto said I can return it for direct replacement, should I cut the boot open first? I don't know what I'm looking for. |
We didn't check that. I just trusted you when you said you didn't see them move when the car was still on the ground.
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Yea, shaft didn't move, I couldn't see the stub on the driver side, but I could see the entire passenger side stationary and driveshaft spinning.
This was all on the side of the road waiting for a tow at night. Ultimately my car battery died anyway so we couldn't replicate anything when we dropped the diff. |
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