Drop a SR20VET and profit!

P.S Making any trackday events this year in the Miaterrr??

 

I'll just leave this here for when you part out of the Miata for this new project:


OS Giken TC24-B1Z (420ps) Nissan Fairlady Z (Datsun 240Z)① - Offset Kings 2016 Okayama Japan by Yoshitaka Kato, on Flickr

 

That's up for debate. I want to get it back together just to enjoy one last time with some new shiney bits. But am selling off some stuff that are pointed to be track specific to clear up some funds for the Z. If I keep the shell, I'd probably go for something underpowered and less tempermental that won't kill me. Winging it as I go along.

If anyone wants ninelives wing, powdercoated black, and a splitter hmu.





Yea, that's a very pretty system. I think I'll stick with the stock stuff for now lol. My entire miata would cost less than that head.

 

here I am.

 

That's a nice 949 valve cover!

 

May have someone interested in the wing, but I'll let you know if it falls through?

Baltic Birch plywood splitter is still kicking around in my basement. It's wide.

It's the only way to gain street cred. I'm hoping it'll drop seconds off my commute times.

 

These came back. I'm debating having an inconel heat shield made for the manifold. Try to recover whatever loss in spool I get from moving up 2 flange sizes.

 

A bit of a snag





One of the studs is just slightly tapped off angle. Not sure if this can be corrected easily by drilling and helicoil or just wallow out one of the holes on the turbine housing

😓

 

Pictures don't work for me? How far is it off angle? Can you enlarge that one hole on the turbo slightly to make it fit? 30 seconds with a die grinder seems much easier then trying to fix a tapped hole.

 

With the three other studs lining up, the last is leaning off center by about 1/8".

It kinda sucks to have to hog a hole out and tighten a nut down on angle, unless I'm just being pedantic.
no risk of stud breakage or leaks if nor normal to flange surface?

#sendit?

 

I have no idea how well it will work. But realistically at this point the options are:

1. enlarge turbo hole a bit and tighten the bitch down.
2. Attempt to fill in the off hole, and hope to god you can retap it correctly, IE the broke and boosted fix.
3. Cut of flange, weld on new one, resend it out for the coating to be redone.

Option 1 seems the easiest and quickest way to go. 30 seconds with a die grinder and problem is sort of solved. All the others seem like they will cost money and time.

 

I'm tired of spending a dollar on this car. But I'd hate for it to all go in, leak, all go out and send it out again anyway. I never thought it's be something I had to check first. I have no issue grinding the hole, I'm just concerned about the crooked nut and bending the stud when clamping it down, then exhibiting it to thermal cycles. There's a small shoulder that is wider than the threads that'll have to clear before the flange surfaces mate, I guess that could be taken care of with a countersink/debur tool.

-_-

This project is fighting me. I would have been half way 66% toward a KMiata trans kit with this financial effort. The universe is sending me a sign...

 

Is it possible for you to take the stud out then once the turbo is on re install the stud loose with resbond? That way some of the mis-alignment can be taken up in the threads.

 

At that point, I'd just want it to be a bolt. But the bolt head or nut will still thread on angle. Resbond kicked in about 10 minutes, I can't remove it unless that stud will be sacrificed or by someone elses capable hands.

 

I'm 90% to the point where I just don't give a ****. I may as well slot the flange and just send it. I'm tired of shipping things, I'm tired of paying for things, just resbond the whole damn turbo to the manifold and **** in the wind.

Now Lars has me thinking about the risk/reward if it gets further fucked, resurfacing, Rewelding, Recoating, Redrill Re-tap. I'm just screwing myself sideways toying around trying to get it right the first time.

If I'm going to have a leaky turbo with possibly sloth spool, my leg might as well be cold this time. One step closer to partout. In my frustration over everything I wrapped a downpipe.

 

If you obround (enlarge) the hole, use a washer under the nut so the angular fit wil be round rather than the edges of the hex flats trying to gouge into the turbine flange.

Altenatively, spot an angular countersink in the turbine flange that matches the stud angle. Hard to do without tools, Cutting into ceramic. More time. Meh, add a washer. They make tapered washers but I don’t know where you could find. One other possibility would be to get a thick washer and taper it on a belt sander.

DNM

 

Threading the nut down on the flange, it's the short stud under the housing that is the fault. The one you have to thread down surfing install, I'll see if I can squeeze a washer there but am otherwise in over my head for that tiny space.

 

I very much dislike wrapping down pipes. Mostly because next time you touch it all that stuff will flake off and your hand will itch for a week.

The of stud being on the corner where it needs to be shorter is annoying. That one may be hard to get a washer under and then the nut on.

Alternative solution.

I bring up the nice BW S66 turbo setup with quick spool valve and 4" exhaust I have in the garage. Guaranteed to not leak at the flange. As a bonus it is already 495 roll race tested.

 

I forgot that these are alll nuts with built-in washers. So no extra washer unless tapered.

I always love the engine pic in your meme.

 

I'm tired of being a diva; I'm embarrassed for myself. Just barely opened it. I can't even tighten it too hard because my wrenches are too fat and just barely grabs anymore. But I don't know if there's much space for it to back out since it'll just kinda get pinned against the housing. Too bad a Nord lock wouldn't fit.

#onestepclosertopartout