turbo track car bulid, because my N/A race car was too reliable...
#1
turbo track car bulid, because my N/A race car was too reliable...
Well here it goes,
Some background: Since owning a miata, ive always wanted to turbo one and track it... Once upon a time i did do this but the car ran for 5 mins at a time. Long story short i gave up on it, went back to n/a cams, mspnp, compression, intake, headers etc Here is my current race car:
Ive tracked this car for the last 3 years, the biggest thing mechanically ive needed to do to it was change the oil.
Recently, i built a festiva turbo... Miata engine with a gtx turbo kit bolted onto it, my learning curve:
Ok.... so here is my current project. Bought this car pretty much as you see it. FM2 turbo kit, link ecu, gt2560 turbo, big rad+oil cooler, torsen, 1.8 brakes, eibach ground control coilovers (ohlins shocks). FM clutch/flywheel.
My goal is to make it track reliable.
After i tore it down a bit:
valve cover ...... ultra sexy time.
My rad + oil cooler... Hopefully it will handle +30C .. adding some slim fans in the future
One of my challenges faced right now... wiring job night-mare.
Another challenge: rust... soon to be covered by fender flares. Also notice the ultra rare wheels
Some rice for you hardparkers out there... love this wheel alot actually.
Im very unsure about the link ecu and what version i have.. it has a knock sensor and an IAT, this car also has a wideband o2 sensor, however its wired kinda funny and is wired to a narrow band display.... Anyone have an idea how that works?
So the future of this car:
-clean it up
-fender flares/front lip
-ducting for brakes/rad/intercooler also slim fans
-hawk blue pads (already has ss lines)
-custom i/c piping
-coolant reroute
-new water pump/timing belt
-full cage (only going to be driven on the street for a month to tune)
-13x10" hoosier slicks
-new hardware for turbo/downpipe etc new bolts and nuts
-baller orumaniamai (omori) gauges
future challenges:
-best way to do the coolant reroute
-hardware/gaskets to use for turbo/downpipe (it had none :\ do i run some?)
-tuning the link ecu figuring out the whole wideband situation. I have an AEM sitting on my desk to rest my coffee mug
-making it reliable.
Some background: Since owning a miata, ive always wanted to turbo one and track it... Once upon a time i did do this but the car ran for 5 mins at a time. Long story short i gave up on it, went back to n/a cams, mspnp, compression, intake, headers etc Here is my current race car:
Ive tracked this car for the last 3 years, the biggest thing mechanically ive needed to do to it was change the oil.
Recently, i built a festiva turbo... Miata engine with a gtx turbo kit bolted onto it, my learning curve:
Ok.... so here is my current project. Bought this car pretty much as you see it. FM2 turbo kit, link ecu, gt2560 turbo, big rad+oil cooler, torsen, 1.8 brakes, eibach ground control coilovers (ohlins shocks). FM clutch/flywheel.
My goal is to make it track reliable.
After i tore it down a bit:
valve cover ...... ultra sexy time.
My rad + oil cooler... Hopefully it will handle +30C .. adding some slim fans in the future
One of my challenges faced right now... wiring job night-mare.
Another challenge: rust... soon to be covered by fender flares. Also notice the ultra rare wheels
Some rice for you hardparkers out there... love this wheel alot actually.
Im very unsure about the link ecu and what version i have.. it has a knock sensor and an IAT, this car also has a wideband o2 sensor, however its wired kinda funny and is wired to a narrow band display.... Anyone have an idea how that works?
So the future of this car:
-clean it up
-fender flares/front lip
-ducting for brakes/rad/intercooler also slim fans
-hawk blue pads (already has ss lines)
-custom i/c piping
-coolant reroute
-new water pump/timing belt
-full cage (only going to be driven on the street for a month to tune)
-13x10" hoosier slicks
-new hardware for turbo/downpipe etc new bolts and nuts
-baller orumaniamai (omori) gauges
future challenges:
-best way to do the coolant reroute
-hardware/gaskets to use for turbo/downpipe (it had none :\ do i run some?)
-tuning the link ecu figuring out the whole wideband situation. I have an AEM sitting on my desk to rest my coffee mug
-making it reliable.
#7
Just a quick question, whats the easiest way to tell if i have 1.8 brakes?
The previous owner said there were 1.8 brakes in the front, and stock 1.6 in the back but i don't want to order pads all the way from the states to find out they are wrong..
My other miatas stock 1.6 brakes, but they are all tucked away and i cant compare :(
The previous owner said there were 1.8 brakes in the front, and stock 1.6 in the back but i don't want to order pads all the way from the states to find out they are wrong..
My other miatas stock 1.6 brakes, but they are all tucked away and i cant compare :(
#9
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,197
Total Cats: 1,136
First, put a pressure gauge in-line to the calipers. Disable your rear brakes with a plug in the proportioning valve. Then add a GPS system that can accurately tell you your speed. Get up to some speed, anything will do really. Apply brakes to some pressure, any will do. Repeat this test, keeping the speed and brake pressure equal. You'll then want to calculate the coefficient of friction of both your brake pads and tires, how you do this is up to you. Then, using mathematics, and the lever arm for both a 1.8 and 1.6 rotor, you should be able to back calculate which size rotor is on your car by using the GPS verified distance it took you to stop. I recommend replacing all four wheel bearings and calipers first, to eliminate any possible error.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#10
Should have thought of that, ill just search for the 1.8 rotor diameter.
Update, got my omori gauges, 100% mechanical which makes me happy!
You know the point where you know you should of just removed the engine but you didn't so you suck up your pride and continue going? Naked engine.
Here is the intercooler ill be using, just trying to figure out the best way to mount it, and install it with ducting and my front lip.... Im debating between aluminum egay I/C piping or mandrel bent exhaust tubing as intercooler piping.. both 2.5" hot and coldside.. Anyone have an opinion on what i should use? steel vs aluminum pipe.
Update, got my omori gauges, 100% mechanical which makes me happy!
You know the point where you know you should of just removed the engine but you didn't so you suck up your pride and continue going? Naked engine.
Here is the intercooler ill be using, just trying to figure out the best way to mount it, and install it with ducting and my front lip.... Im debating between aluminum egay I/C piping or mandrel bent exhaust tubing as intercooler piping.. both 2.5" hot and coldside.. Anyone have an opinion on what i should use? steel vs aluminum pipe.
#11
Has anyone had experience with ebay slim radiator fans?
Im debating on these/getting a couple at the junk yard, roughly same price.
Couldn't find anything upon a search.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/X2-10-PULL-PU...ht_4035wt_1257
Im debating on these/getting a couple at the junk yard, roughly same price.
Couldn't find anything upon a search.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/X2-10-PULL-PU...ht_4035wt_1257
#12
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,197
Total Cats: 1,136
They're fine. They work. Might not push as much air as a spal fan, but for the price difference you shouldn't be complaining too much. I've bought two and they did next to nothing, since I didn't have a shroud. Fast forward to today, and I have stock shrouds with one stock fan, and one motor/blade from one of the ebay units in the other stock shroud, as I burnt out the stock motor by accident, and had these ebay units in a box.
TL;DR: buy them with the shroud, the package deal should be on ebay.
TL;DR: buy them with the shroud, the package deal should be on ebay.
#13
They're fine. They work. Might not push as much air as a spal fan, but for the price difference you shouldn't be complaining too much. I've bought two and they did next to nothing, since I didn't have a shroud. Fast forward to today, and I have stock shrouds with one stock fan, and one motor/blade from one of the ebay units in the other stock shroud, as I burnt out the stock motor by accident, and had these ebay units in a box.
TL;DR: buy them with the shroud, the package deal should be on ebay.
TL;DR: buy them with the shroud, the package deal should be on ebay.
I've always questioned the shroud, I'm only driving this car on the street for a month or so to get the bugs out of it, and the fans will only be used in the pits.
I know the shroud will help when the car is parked in the pits but will it block air flow through the radiator when racing? (I've never ran one on any of my race cars)
#14
Oh, and btw i had an idea for mirrors on the miata at least for a race car.
I got 60$ a piece for my mirrors so at that price i let them go fast, Im going to be using motorcycle mirrors on mine. Small, sexy, and cheap.
Something like these:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MOTORCYCLE-RA...ht_4877wt_1257
I got 60$ a piece for my mirrors so at that price i let them go fast, Im going to be using motorcycle mirrors on mine. Small, sexy, and cheap.
Something like these:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MOTORCYCLE-RA...ht_4877wt_1257
#19
So it has the 1.8 brakes in the front but not in the back, all i need is caliper brackets.
Does anyone know if there are differences in rear caliper brackets between 1.8 miatas?
There is a wrecked mazdaspeed miata and im wondering if i could use the rear brake brackets off that, or i need an n/a 94-97 NA caliper brackets.
couldnt find anything upon a search.
#20
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,197
Total Cats: 1,136
I think all MSMs have sport brakes, not sure what that does to the rears though. Again, I think they're larger than standard rear rotors. Won't be a huge problem though, they'll still larger than your 1.6s and can be balanced out with tire pressure, pad choices, proportioning valve, etc. Most people have issues with the rears being a little weak. They generally have a more aggressive brake pad back there.
As for the fans, I had the zip tied to the radiator without a shroud and they did next to nothing. It overheated, stayed over heated, and didn't cool. With the stock shrouds, I can wait a few minutes before it over heats, Turn the fans on for a minute or two, and then turn them back off*.
With a reroute, ducting, 2" ebay radiator, the above fan setup, and a mini cooper extractor in the hood, I'm 99% sure my over heating problems are gone** and those fans work wonderfully at a stop, and apparently don't interfere at speed
*they're operated with a switch
**need to have a really hot track day to be sure.
As for the fans, I had the zip tied to the radiator without a shroud and they did next to nothing. It overheated, stayed over heated, and didn't cool. With the stock shrouds, I can wait a few minutes before it over heats, Turn the fans on for a minute or two, and then turn them back off*.
With a reroute, ducting, 2" ebay radiator, the above fan setup, and a mini cooper extractor in the hood, I'm 99% sure my over heating problems are gone** and those fans work wonderfully at a stop, and apparently don't interfere at speed
*they're operated with a switch
**need to have a really hot track day to be sure.