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Old 03-19-2012, 10:56 PM   #1
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Default 1.6 T28 13psi

i picked up an already boosted NA and i need some advise. the person who i bought it knew nothing about it but, from the work it has, the person who built it knew what he was doing...

car runs well but i now know what turbo lag is... it picks up slowly then at around 4200rpm it goes into supersonic mode. hits all at once. below is a list of the parts. id like to have better response, what can i do? or is the turbo just too big?

running 13psi

-beghi log manifold
-garret t2860 (same as an S14 SR20 turbo i believe)
-e manage / rising rate fuel pressure regulator
-intercooler (looks to be 3inch)
-injectors (unknown)
-recirculator BOV
-custom 3inch exhaust

id like to have the power lower into the 3500rpm if possible. i will be going to a dyno soon to see where im at, and go from there.

any suggestions, also with my current mods where should i expect to be as far as power? i understand every car is different but, ball park?
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:09 PM   #2
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does it have an a/f meter. I would want to know the a/f was ok at that boost level. I run 15psi on a much much smaller turbo but i have standalone fuel managment I am a newb and dont know if emanage alows injector pulse width control since you say you have fuel pressure reg that goes up with boost and that is usually but not always a way around pulse width control. I am sure someone with more knowledge will chime in but always good to know your air fuel ratio so you know nothing is going to break. With that large of a turbo 13psi will be alot with out forged rods but again I am no expert just going based on what I was told the limit was on a 1.6. safe to 200 but you hear people with 260+ on stock internals so I guess its just how brave you are.
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:13 PM   #3
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oh and you have a 3 inch exhaust which should be good for spool. You might make sure the cat is good and has not gotten clogged. If you are rich a lot it will clog and hurt spool.
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90 Turbo View Post
does it have an a/f meter. I would want to know the a/f was ok at that boost level. I run 15psi on a much much smaller turbo but i have standalone fuel managment I am a newb and dont know if emanage alows injector pulse width control since you say you have fuel pressure reg that goes up with boost and that is usually but not always a way around pulse width control. I am sure someone with more knowledge will chime in but always good to know your air fuel ratio so you know nothing is going to break. With that large of a turbo 13psi will be alot with out forged rods but again I am no expert just going based on what I was told the limit was on a 1.6. safe to 200 but you hear people with 260+ on stock internals so I guess its just how brave you are.
yes i do have an afr, boost gauge, exit temperature and fuel pressure gauge. the numbers displayed on the afr jump around from 14-15 and everything in between? is this where it should be? the motor looks to have been worked on according to my tech? my second reason for asking, it hits so hard im afraid to brake something.... i was thinking of lowering to 10psi just in case
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:34 PM   #5
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the numbers displayed on the afr jump around from 14-15 and everything in between?
umm, in boost??
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:41 PM   #6
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Before you do anything else, please upload lots and lots of pictures for us. Pictures of the turbo setup, exhaust, intercooler setup, electronics, gauges, etc... and possibly video of the car idling or running.

Edit: Nevermind, you're running Emanage so no MSQ's or Logs
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:43 PM   #7
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Your AFRs should be 11 to 12 in boost. You are doomed.

RRFPR's are horse and buggy. Get a real computer, ditch the RRFPR, get a TPS and actually tune your accel enrichments among other things.

What is the A/R of your turbine housing?

Come with me if you want to live.
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viperormiata View Post
If possible, please give us some logs, msq's of the car.
He doesn't have any of that "technology" with what he is running. He's running super lean in boost, probably detonating like a **** and has little he can do about it. He doesn't know if he is out of injector, or out of FP, or what.
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:52 PM   #9
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Yeah 14-15 is only cool at light throttle/not in boost.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:18 AM   #10
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I see 14 to 15 in light acceleration. I have not payed attention in boost as eyes are fixed on the road. Should I go do a run and look too see what its reading under boost?

Here is a pic of the setup[IMG][/IMG]
Attached Thumbnails
1.6 T28 13psi-20120315_120200.jpg  
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:24 AM   #11
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Yeah take a run and if you are not between 10-12 at boost stop getting into boost. Engine looks nice by the way. What color are the tops of the injectors?
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:24 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Your AFRs should be 11 to 12 in boost. You are doomed.

RRFPR's are horse and buggy. Get a real computer, ditch the RRFPR, get a TPS and actually tune your accel enrichments among other things.

What is the A/R of your turbine housing?

Come with me if you want to live.

i definitely want to live!!! (shes too pretty to die) i will def get a MS just not sure when..
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:30 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Your AFRs should be 11 to 12 in boost. You are doomed.

RRFPR's are horse and buggy. Get a real computer, ditch the RRFPR, get a TPS and actually tune your accel enrichments among other things.

What is the A/R of your turbine housing?

Come with me if you want to live.
it say .60 AR
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidewaystocurb View Post
garret t2860 (same as an S14 SR20 turbo i believe)
If the turbo is the same as the S14's SR20, then it's a 2560. Most likely a journal bearing.
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdgen View Post
If the turbo is the same as the S14's SR20, then it's a 2560. Most likely a journal bearing.
i ran the numbers on the serial plaque on the turbo and it said t2860 journal. maybe im wrong.


also i have a pillar gauge that says afr and has one light that bounced to one side then the other, i also have another square box that reads numbers but thats all. 2 widebands maybe? ill take pics tomorrow.
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:33 AM   #16
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Stay out of boost until you sort this out.
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:52 AM   #17
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Numbers are all that matter on AFRs. What your car needs in cruise and boost are on opposite ends of the continuum.

A .60 A/R turbine housing on most 2860s should spool a bit sooner than that on a 1.6, imo. Spool would be slower if you were really lean going into boost.

Do you have an o2 clamp? If you don't know what that is, you should read this.

If you sell the emanage and RRFPR for decent money you can almost afford a used MS1 (I saw one for $350 recently). This will let you get rid of the MAF, which is clogging up the air that is trying to get into the turbo and probably also hurting the spool. You will also not need to worry about an o2 clamp if you get a MS, so there is another bonus.

Remove a fuel injector and look for numbers on it's side. You can search for those numbers and color in the link I gave you above to see what you have. It will be important in figuring out your current fueling situation and where to go from here. You might even want to take a good, clear, up close picture of it while you have it out. It is easy. Just don't drop any of the three black plastic fuel rail spacers under the bolts because they can be easy to lose.

And put your location in so it shows up under your screen name. Somebody here is probably local to you and might be helpful.
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:53 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
A .60 A/R turbine housing on most 2860s should spool a bit sooner than that on a 1.6, imo. Spool would be slower if you were really lean going into boost.

News Flash: He didn't read the number off the turbine.

Quote:
Remove a fuel injector and look for numbers on it's side.
News Flash: They are bown tops, so 265cc. Look at picture.




I think a big issue is that your using window washer line for the vaccum line to the FMU. Replace it with 3/16" iirc.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:47 AM   #19
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I'd also be wary of having an actual wideband o2 sensor... OP, are you sure it's wideband or narrowband? Can you take a picture of the actual O2 sensor that's installed in the exhaust, and of the gauge?
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:26 PM   #20
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Thanks for all the input. As soon as a Ms Pops up at good deal im going to buy it. I dont like the maf look anyways. Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Numbers are all that matter on AFRs. What your car needs in cruise and boost are on opposite ends of the continuum.

A .60 A/R turbine housing on most 2860s should spool a bit sooner than that on a 1.6, imo. Spool would be slower if you were really lean going into boost.

Do you have an o2 clamp? If you don't know what that is, you should read this.

If you sell the emanage and RRFPR for decent money you can almost afford a used MS1 (I saw one for $350 recently). This will let you get rid of the MAF, which is clogging up the air that is trying to get into the turbo and probably also hurting the spool. You will also not need to worry about an o2 clamp if you get a MS, so there is another bonus.

Remove a fuel injector and look for numbers on it's side. You can search for those numbers and color in the link I gave you above to see what you have. It will be important in figuring out your current fueling situation and where to go from here. You might even want to take a good, clear, up close picture of it while you have it out. It is easy. Just don't drop any of the three black plastic fuel rail spacers under the bolts because they can be easy to lose.

And put your location in so it shows up under your screen name. Somebody here is probably local to you and might be helpful.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
News Flash: He didn't read the number off the turbine.



News Flash: They are bown tops, so 265cc. Look at picture.




I think a big issue is that your using window washer line for the vaccum line to the FMU. Replace it with 3/16" iirc.
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