250-300WHP Build
03-14-2019, 12:47 PM
#3
Dude seriously stop. You need to do a ton of reading on here still before you do anything.
https://mkturbo.com/9097NA8.html
https://mkturbo.com/9097NA8.html
- Buy the mkturbo complete kit and have him keep the ecu to save you some money.
- Buy the supermiata radiator and reroute
- Engine parts
- FM engine rebuild kit
- ARP head studs
- Manley or Eagle rods
- OEM pistons
- Damper of your choice
- Machine work if needed
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03-14-2019, 12:50 PM
#4
Maybe you should let your engine shop decide whether you need undersize bearings or not. Also, "reman" heads are usually nightmares. I wouldn't trust that anything on it has been rebuilt correctly, or the valves shimmed right.
I wouldn't buy a flywheel off of ebay. This is something you're trusting to turn at 7000+ RPM without exploding and cutting off your feet. Mine is the SFI rated unit from FM.
The janky spec miata AFPR? Which is basically a stock unit with a hole drilled in the body and a set screw threaded in? For !!!$150$!!!? Go buy a fuellabs 545 for $175 and be done with it.
Just build the ****** shortblock for ****'s sake. 9.0:1 is what most NA8's are and you're not going to need to spend another $1000 on machine work to do it all over again later.
I wouldn't buy a flywheel off of ebay. This is something you're trusting to turn at 7000+ RPM without exploding and cutting off your feet. Mine is the SFI rated unit from FM.
The janky spec miata AFPR? Which is basically a stock unit with a hole drilled in the body and a set screw threaded in? For !!!$150$!!!? Go buy a fuellabs 545 for $175 and be done with it.
Just build the ****** shortblock for ****'s sake. 9.0:1 is what most NA8's are and you're not going to need to spend another $1000 on machine work to do it all over again later.
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03-14-2019, 12:53 PM
#5
Maybe you should let your engine shop decide whether you need undersize bearings or not. Also, "reman" heads are usually nightmares. I wouldn't trust that anything on it has been rebuilt correctly, or the valves shimmed right.
I wouldn't buy a flywheel off of ebay. This is something you're trusting to turn at 7000+ RPM without exploding and cutting off your feet. Mine is the SFI rated unit from FM.
The janky spec miata AFPR? Which is basically a stock unit with a hole drilled in the body and a set screw threaded in? For !!!$150$!!!? Go buy a fuellabs 545 for $175 and be done with it.
Just build the ****** shortblock for ****'s sake. 9.0:1 is what most NA8's are and you're not going to need to spend another $1000 on machine work to do it all over again later.
I wouldn't buy a flywheel off of ebay. This is something you're trusting to turn at 7000+ RPM without exploding and cutting off your feet. Mine is the SFI rated unit from FM.
The janky spec miata AFPR? Which is basically a stock unit with a hole drilled in the body and a set screw threaded in? For !!!$150$!!!? Go buy a fuellabs 545 for $175 and be done with it.
Just build the ****** shortblock for ****'s sake. 9.0:1 is what most NA8's are and you're not going to need to spend another $1000 on machine work to do it all over again later.
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03-14-2019, 01:02 PM
#7
Former Vendor
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,099
Two or three threads ago, we all told you that OEM gaskets were the only ones that were worth a damn. Now, you're telling us you're going to buy a bunch of Mahle gaskets.
It appears you do not listen to the advice you're given.
Why should we spend any time giving you advice here?
It appears you do not listen to the advice you're given.
Why should we spend any time giving you advice here?
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03-14-2019, 02:38 PM
#16
... I think the FM rebuild kit is a little overpriced. $720 for the NB2 kit and it doesn't even come with rings? I understand OEM gaskets are best but Mahle is pretty reputable as far as I know, I've used their parts for other engine rebuilds and I have no complaints. That and I already have quite a few components on hand, so buying the FM rebuild kit would leave me spending a lot more money for things I don't need 2 of. I already bought their front timing component kit for instance.
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03-14-2019, 02:42 PM
#17
Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,552
Total Cats: 196
Cxracing turbo kit? As in manifold, turbo, downpipe? Seriously???
Do you see a single person on this site running a cxracing turbo kit?
No? I wonder why that is....?
I know, I know, you know some ricer kids, who told you all their ricer friends run it. So it must be good.
But seriously, you know nothing, and you dont listed to good advise. Stop posting and go to a skidders forum.
They will all praise your turbo build choices.
Do you see a single person on this site running a cxracing turbo kit?
No? I wonder why that is....?
I know, I know, you know some ricer kids, who told you all their ricer friends run it. So it must be good.
But seriously, you know nothing, and you dont listed to good advise. Stop posting and go to a skidders forum.
They will all praise your turbo build choices.
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03-14-2019, 03:31 PM
#20
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,099
Now we're getting somewhere.
Stock pistons are fine up to 300whp with good fuel and careful tuning. ARP mains are a requirement at 250whp+ IMO. OEM oil pump is fine at 300whp, but reusing old oil pumps is like reusing condoms. New Mazda oil pump is less than $150 from Comp.
Why are you replacing the oil pressure sender?
@Robb M. Why does the WYSIWYG editor delete everything I type after a less-than sign?
Stock pistons are fine up to 300whp with good fuel and careful tuning. ARP mains are a requirement at 250whp+ IMO. OEM oil pump is fine at 300whp, but reusing old oil pumps is like reusing condoms. New Mazda oil pump is less than $150 from Comp.
Why are you replacing the oil pressure sender?
@Robb M. Why does the WYSIWYG editor delete everything I type after a less-than sign?
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