300HP Miata budget build?
#22
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lake Forest, CA
Posts: 7,947
Total Cats: 1,002
Wow guys.
Being nice to lazy-**** noobs must have been on a lot of your New Year's Resolutions lists.
I'm impressed.
It wasn't on my list.
Dear Sir:
Have you read ANYTHING on this site yet? People have posted links, there are are stickies for a reason, but it doesn't seem you've read any of them.
Go read some build threads and get a clue, then come back and ask questions. If you have a clue, then congratulations. Prove it.
Being nice to lazy-**** noobs must have been on a lot of your New Year's Resolutions lists.
I'm impressed.
It wasn't on my list.
Dear Sir:
Have you read ANYTHING on this site yet? People have posted links, there are are stickies for a reason, but it doesn't seem you've read any of them.
Go read some build threads and get a clue, then come back and ask questions. If you have a clue, then congratulations. Prove it.
#29
And, to be fair, I could play with the tuning for five seconds and shoot rods into the ground and pistons to the moon.
I joke a lot but I have never run lean or be greedy with timing. The fabrication isn't going to win beauty contests or get a stamp of approval from many here but the proof is in the pudding. The basic configuration hasn't changed since 2007. Everything I've done has been for long term functionality.
On 93 it made between 285-290whp at ~14psi. On E85 at 16-18psi it makes 325-330whp.
If I would have posted during the one week build, I would have negative props and been ridiculed. Remember the wisdom back in 2007? Banned words: eBay, Chinese, ssautochrome, tacotaco, etc.
Why not let people try new things and make mistakes? Or even worse, succeed.
This section of the forum is DIY. I don't like discouraging new members and I take offense when my car is viewed as pure luck and that others couldn't do even better with equal or less resources.
#31
Yeah basically that.
Most of the regulars here like to be realistic. This isn't clubricer or m.net where we tell you to shoot for the stars and pursue your dreams in some fairytale broney fashion. (UNLESS OF COURSE we know you can possibly pull off something like that )
Personally I'd like to be told the cold harsh reality so that I know what I'm getting into. I like to drastically overbuild for my plans so I can know for certain every single time i beat on the car that its not going to splooge all over the road. The difference with someone like you and a typical n00b in question here is, they see your build thread and think its the norm, then fail miserably and blame everyone for it.
Lastly - I bet your car could be destroyed within hours in the hands of a n00b, and the reason its held together this long is not because of some magical engine or mythical freak motor, but a combination of things like uber conservative tuning (spark/fuel), not making big torque down low, and not being as abused as other cars (despite the occasional drag strip trips)
Obviously just my opinion/guess though. Who knows for sure....
Most of the regulars here like to be realistic. This isn't clubricer or m.net where we tell you to shoot for the stars and pursue your dreams in some fairytale broney fashion. (UNLESS OF COURSE we know you can possibly pull off something like that )
Personally I'd like to be told the cold harsh reality so that I know what I'm getting into. I like to drastically overbuild for my plans so I can know for certain every single time i beat on the car that its not going to splooge all over the road. The difference with someone like you and a typical n00b in question here is, they see your build thread and think its the norm, then fail miserably and blame everyone for it.
Lastly - I bet your car could be destroyed within hours in the hands of a n00b, and the reason its held together this long is not because of some magical engine or mythical freak motor, but a combination of things like uber conservative tuning (spark/fuel), not making big torque down low, and not being as abused as other cars (despite the occasional drag strip trips)
Obviously just my opinion/guess though. Who knows for sure....
#32
Ok a noob question for a noob thread. Is it possible that conservative timing is easier on the rods than getting MBT is? Is there less force operating on the rod when ignition occurs later than MBT? I can't think of why this would be without drawing out a force diagram, and I really don't want to do that.
#34
The car has been used and used and abused.
At least that's my interpretation from following his build thread.
(dvcn's car that is)
Last edited by Efini~FC3S; 01-13-2014 at 01:59 PM. Reason: mispelled DCVN....dang it
#36
ali123-
Decide what you really want to do with the car. There is a point of diminishing returns. (FOR ME) At 250whp full throttle/full boost was useless in 1st/2nd gear unless running drag radials. At 280-290whp there was wheelspin in 3rd gear 50% of the time. Wheelspin in fourth gear happened a few times at the worst possible time(passing gravel trucks on a two lane highway with 65mph oncoming traffic).
With E85 there is wheelspin in 3rd gear with cold drag radials on the street. Things are worse with street tires.
250whp is a lot of fun, relatively cheap to do and somewhat reasonable. That being said, I'm going to cry if I don't go over 400 after I build a motor. It's about what you want to do with the car.
This car has been down the 1/4 exactly 70 times, hundreds of autox runs(many double driven in 100° heat), a few one off track events, drift, dd, towing(boat, equipment), off road(almost high centered twice) and a few other things I won't admit to. It is not a trailer/dyno queen or hard parker, its reason for existence is to make me grin.
Decide what you really want to do with the car. There is a point of diminishing returns. (FOR ME) At 250whp full throttle/full boost was useless in 1st/2nd gear unless running drag radials. At 280-290whp there was wheelspin in 3rd gear 50% of the time. Wheelspin in fourth gear happened a few times at the worst possible time(passing gravel trucks on a two lane highway with 65mph oncoming traffic).
With E85 there is wheelspin in 3rd gear with cold drag radials on the street. Things are worse with street tires.
250whp is a lot of fun, relatively cheap to do and somewhat reasonable. That being said, I'm going to cry if I don't go over 400 after I build a motor. It's about what you want to do with the car.
This car has been down the 1/4 exactly 70 times, hundreds of autox runs(many double driven in 100° heat), a few one off track events, drift, dd, towing(boat, equipment), off road(almost high centered twice) and a few other things I won't admit to. It is not a trailer/dyno queen or hard parker, its reason for existence is to make me grin.
#37
Before my car was stolen and totaled I drove it 28 hours from Alabama to Utah. Never having driven a 300 hp Miata before I didn't really know what to expect. I've driven 300++ hp STI's, Porsches, and many a Ducati 998/999/1098 etc etc...
All of those cars had the supporting mods to assist the power. Brakes, LSD, clutch, bushings, and suspension.
My Miata had all those supporting mods as well and it was still slightly more scary than all the other fast cars I've driven since the car is so much lighter. 300 hp in a Miata with no supporting mods is insanity, I would never think to drive one with stock suspension/brakes.
Reminds me of the VW scene kids who want to slap a big turbo and stage 3 off-the-shelf tune and then get mad when they can't use the power due to an open FWD diff and a clutch that will vaporize at the thought of applying 60% of the power.
Do it right, make it tight.
All of those cars had the supporting mods to assist the power. Brakes, LSD, clutch, bushings, and suspension.
My Miata had all those supporting mods as well and it was still slightly more scary than all the other fast cars I've driven since the car is so much lighter. 300 hp in a Miata with no supporting mods is insanity, I would never think to drive one with stock suspension/brakes.
Reminds me of the VW scene kids who want to slap a big turbo and stage 3 off-the-shelf tune and then get mad when they can't use the power due to an open FWD diff and a clutch that will vaporize at the thought of applying 60% of the power.
Do it right, make it tight.
#40
ali123-
Decide what you really want to do with the car. There is a point of diminishing returns. (FOR ME) At 250whp full throttle/full boost was useless in 1st/2nd gear unless running drag radials. At 280-290whp there was wheelspin in 3rd gear 50% of the time. Wheelspin in fourth gear happened a few times at the worst possible time(passing gravel trucks on a two lane highway with 65mph oncoming traffic).
With E85 there is wheelspin in 3rd gear with cold drag radials on the street. Things are worse with street tires.
Decide what you really want to do with the car. There is a point of diminishing returns. (FOR ME) At 250whp full throttle/full boost was useless in 1st/2nd gear unless running drag radials. At 280-290whp there was wheelspin in 3rd gear 50% of the time. Wheelspin in fourth gear happened a few times at the worst possible time(passing gravel trucks on a two lane highway with 65mph oncoming traffic).
With E85 there is wheelspin in 3rd gear with cold drag radials on the street. Things are worse with street tires.