DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

94 MSPNP SR20 DIY Build

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Old 09-28-2007, 01:13 AM
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For those who are interested these are the temps I am getting with zero shrouds. Just like the pics above except the bumper is on, except I have one spal 12" fan that is freakin loud. 136kPa....boostin!!

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Old 09-28-2007, 09:22 AM
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I'm not getting the temp- it's jumping up and down by 16F? usually the clt line ramps. Yes- I've got a 16" spal straight blade and it scares people in traffic when it comes on. But it moves air.
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Old 09-28-2007, 09:28 AM
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The side strikers make a big difference, in how well the top clamps down anyone who says different does not drive there car hard enough to warrant the stiffenes of the HT anyway. Damn convertable lovers :gay:
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Old 09-28-2007, 10:54 AM
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The CLT actually jumps in 3 deg increments, and I am still not sure why. I do want the hardtop stiffness (and extra 3 mph on top end)!!
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Old 09-28-2007, 11:23 AM
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So the min/max data points don't represent what's visible in the screen?
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Old 09-28-2007, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
So the min/max data points don't represent what's visible in the screen?
They represent min/max of the entire datalog
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Old 09-28-2007, 11:29 AM
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If you have any sketchy connections to the MS the signals will spike or have some noise. That will explain the weird max values. When the connections or whatever the problem is gets fixed it will ramp like normal.
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Old 09-28-2007, 11:45 AM
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Which values on my log should be ramping and should it be smoothly?
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Old 09-28-2007, 12:05 PM
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Your CLT jumps around in square patterns and it's not supposed to. If you look at this post it shows Scott accelerating, even though it doesn't show CLT, i'm showing you that your datalog lines should "ramp" smoothly like this.
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....1&postcount=26
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Old 09-28-2007, 12:30 PM
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Ok, we will see if placing more grounds on the MS fixes this. How about my O2 reading, should that be more consistent? Could that be due to EGO correction settings?
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Old 09-28-2007, 07:33 PM
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Also, is it ok to plumb the idle air inlet directly to the intake pipe? Or is it better to put a seperate filter on it with a check valve?

I would think direct is fine because the same pressure will be on both sides except right after you close the throttle. Hopefully the BOV takes care of that part.
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Old 09-28-2007, 07:36 PM
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Plumb the idle air directly into the intake pipe.
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Old 09-28-2007, 08:03 PM
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Wont boost leak into the low pressure of the intake pipe through the idle valve that way?
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Old 09-28-2007, 08:16 PM
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Everyone does it. If there was a problem i'm sure that wouldn't be the case. The valve closes as soon as you give it any gas so it can't leak. It's only open when it's idling.
Picture of Scotts IC piping with IAC hooked up.
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Old 09-28-2007, 08:35 PM
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Ok, just checking.....I will do the same.
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Old 09-28-2007, 09:36 PM
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Uh if it is plumbed into the intake tract where is it gonna leak to. A closed system can't leak unto itself. duh
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Old 09-28-2007, 09:36 PM
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If i didnt already have the bung I'd just have the idle valve get it from the atmos.
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Old 09-30-2007, 02:42 PM
  #98  
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thats a sweet build
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:29 PM
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If you did all that in the coffin-sized garage in pic #1598, you are an absolute stud.



huge props on a clean and innovative build.
nick><>
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Old 10-01-2007, 01:45 AM
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Yeah, should be a coffin because I almost rotted to death from working in there for so many hours. But yes it was all done in that space. Thanks for the compliments!
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