18psi

iTrader: (76)

99 does have both crank and cam

borka

iTrader: (1)

ok, so i got the MS2E yesterday, and CAR NO START. lol

Here is what i did:

Removed stock ecu
Plugged in MS2E
removed and unplugged front o2 sensor and replaced it with Innovate wideband
un pluged MAF
ran vacum line from TB front to MS2
connected wideband serial to ms2 serial plug for digital wideband input (per instructions).
calibrated TPS per instructions in Tuner Studio.

go to start car and it just cranks, no start.

I do hear the fuel pump prime once ignition is on.

what did i do wrong? map is base map from Rev, so it should just fire up.

do i still need the stock front o2 and maf plugged in? i thought i dont need those once i go MS2 ?

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Check the timing?

borka

iTrader: (1)

I have a timing gun, but how can i check timing if car no start?

This was going to be the next step in the instructions, to set the timing, but i need the engine running for that.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Add to reqfuel till it cranks. Base maps are just that, base configuration settings for inputs and outputs.

You still need to tune fuel.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

You get a buddy to start the crank and use the gun attached to cyl1 ign wire to check, it'll still read if you have spark.

I think it should be 10? Going off of poor memory and guess.

borka

iTrader: (1)

ok. rev replied to my pm. immobilizer was left on. switched off and car fired up.

will be setting timing now.

borka

iTrader: (1)

Mounted MS2E under the steering column, what a PITA to mount this box.
I just zipped tied it to other big plugs/wires, sits very secure.




Did the timing, and calibrated TPS.

Enriched the base VE map, as the base map was WAY lean, idle was 20 AFR on base map, so i just added 20 points across the board, which is too rich, but Autotune will bring it back to target.

I got the closed loop idle dialed in pretty well, except AC, it dips way too low, so next i will figure out how to make the rpm go up more when AC is on.

one major problem:

My CEL keeps blinking when i put load on the engine, even at low rpms, and more often in higher revs. this has me worried as i think it detects knock and CEL flashes.
AFR's are rich, 12-13 when under load, so its not knocking due to lean condition

Car is still stock, no turbo, only header and muffler, thats it.

false reading? should i raise the threshold of knock?

here is my timing table, its just Rev's base table:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B38...ew?usp=sharing

here is the rough tune from Autotune, its still very rough as i am afraid to do redline runs as CEL keeps flashing like crazy at high rpm's.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B38...ew?usp=sharing

Second problem, I cant seem to figure out how to log properly, when i run logging in tuner studio, it does log, but when i open the file in megatune viewer, very few fields are actually being logged, so i cant even run VE Analyzer.
here is the log file that it takes:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B38...ew?usp=sharing


Cant wait to tune this properly, so i can start bolting on turbo bits.

viriiguy

iTrader: (1)

I put my Megasquirt where the factory ECU went. It is a pain to get it in there initially, but it works great.

borka

iTrader: (1)

I could not figure out how to mount it there, the ecu box doesnt have a single mounting point, just a smooth box, plus it has big plugs on both sides, front OEM plugs and rear serial and DB big plug. so after breaking my back under there, i said F it and zip tied it under the steering column. I simply put zip ties on the OEM plugs and the serial and DB plugs, and tied them to other big plugs that were near by.

Its very secure, doesnt move around, and i should be able to put the plastic cover under the steering wheel back on, and the ecu will be out of sight.

borka

iTrader: (1)

more updates.

Emailed Rev my logs and tune, and he suggested that its not actually knocking but its noise being picked up, so to raise threshold of knock. this seems to help.

Install FlowForce EV14 today and, got it idling pretty well, and went for a 30 minute autotune run. car runs pretty good now, a little rich, but more autotune will take care of this.








Ran into a snag, the 5 bolt flange on my little turbo doesn't line up with my downpipe turbo going back to seller and i am ordering a China GT2860

GT25 GT28 T25 T28 GT2860 sr20 CA18DET Turbo turbocharger Water Cooled AR 64 | eBay








Another issue, the inconel studs from FM have a non threaded section in the middle that is too long. do i just use a few washers under the nut? or return them?

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

Double nut them, and drive em in real deep like.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

you installed them backwards

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

Oh ****...

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I run the ebay 2871 (bit bigger than the 2860 ebay turbo) and it works well. Will make 30 PSI on its own, but can't hold that to redline. And yeah, studs are probably backwards.

borka

iTrader: (1)

They are equal length on both sides

18psi

iTrader: (76)

not the ones I've used form them
https://www.flyinmiata.com/stage-8-h...nel-studs.html

borka

iTrader: (1)

The main product pic shows the correct looking studs, then the next picture shows the ones I received. I guess it's the new and "improved" version.

I'll try to drive them in deeper with two nuts, I don't know if the no thread area will go into the threaded hole. I just don't want to have a stuck nut on them in case I have to return

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

No it won't... You'll have a nut stuck onto the broken end after it snaps.

I'd return them and get proper studs. Plenty of places including Stage 8 http://www.stage8.com/importsturbo.html or non-locking with inconel studs here http://gcg.com.au/turbo-parts/studs-nuts or, in fairness, from one of the site vendors http://www.trackspeedengineering.com...x1-25-EFR.html

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

Probably not. My 2560 had enlarged area for the first 1/8 inch, just for this type of situation. It should take like 5 or ten ft lbs.

If you snap an inconel stud, you has a dumb.