Seefo

iTrader: (5)

MTX-L works fine. the LC1 is the older model. They worked out a lot of the complaints I think. At least the grounding problems don't seem to be there. Also, I hardly ever calibrate mine and the readings haven't changed much (obviously not a test, but I am not getting odd readings). My one calibration (about 2 years after my install) did not change the readings.

I had a much easier time with my MTX-L install than a lot of people indicated from their LC-1 experience. To be expected, but there you go.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

My buddy just got an LC-2 and I like it. Its much more compact than the LC-1 and less wires to set up to calibrate ie no more red button to hold and push and it gives you plenty more wire to run

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the LC2 looks like they fixed most of the issues with the LC1. Now you can actually locate the controller inside the car, the wiring looks less shitty. Still only has one ground and questional electronics in the controller. But the electrical problems in the controller were pretty much 100% related to the damn thing getting roasted in the engine compartment.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

one ground isn't necessarily better. it's easier, but it's not better.

and only morons install things in the engine bay next to headers.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Well when the ******* sensor cable plugs directly into the controller and the plug is the size of a small house its kind of hard to route it into the ******* inside of the car.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

It's plenty long enough to get it away from the turbo. I've been running a used LC-1 setup for.... 5 years come next month with no issues. Controller mounted in bay.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

I have my LC1 route through the shifter boot and the controller sits next to it under the center console. It keeps it out of the heat but damn is it a tight fit. the LC2 was easy to hide the controller behind the radio and we ran the wire to the sensor through the firewall. **** was CAKE

cjsafski

iTrader: (2)

I had my LC1 in the same exact place next to the shifter. I had troubles with the unit loosing calibration and eventually killing sensors so I got rid of it. Switched to a Zietronix and that has been good. Also the signal to the MS was less noisy than the LC1 so easier to tune with.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

That wasnt noise from the LC1 it was because you had it setup for instantaneous update rather than 1/12th second averages. Instantaneous is too fast, is the default setting for the LC1 0-5v output, and is completely a marketing thing so they can claim to have the fastest wideband.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Da ****???

cjsafski

iTrader: (2)

Never knew about those settings. Oh well. It wouldn't have fixed the issues with the sensor calibration. For reference here is a pic of the afrs it would report with the car idling. It wasn't just a loose connection since it would slowly over time display leaner and leaner until this. Free air calibrations worked at first but then would stop. Replacing the sensor would fix it temporarily but after time it would happen again.

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

sounds like an auto-calibrate gone wrong. Did they ever release a firmware update for the LC1?

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Stop mounting your sensors at the turbo.. mount it right before the cat, wire the sensor through the tranny shifter hole under the boot and this will give you about 6-7" extra wire to tuck the controller right under the air bag switch.

locomonkeyboricua

I had aem for 3 years never had an issue. The dyno guy was amazed on how accurate it was it was reading the exact same as his dyno a/f gauge. Even after 2 years. I also had lc1 and hated the dam thing I felt I could never trust it.

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

dyno a/f readers that clip on the end of exhaust pipe suck (unless you are not running a "cat"). Not saying the AEM has a problem, just that your guy doesn't sound too great with that.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

THIS^^^ is how I have had mine for 2 years no issues. I recalibrate it every 3-4 oil changes. Not because it needs to be or is reading wrong just because they recommend it.

asmasm

iTrader: (1)

Back on the topic of less expensive wideband setups- has anyone tried the 14point7 lambda controller (this is the version with removable plug)?
Spartan Lambda Controller | 14Point7

$75 for controller + $50 for a sensor off of amazon.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

75+50=125 and no gauge and your venturing into unfamiliar ground. Or you could get the LC-2 with out gauge for 189 and you know it will work or the MTX-L for 199 which will also work well.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

The 14point7 stuff is legit. But for $125 it's kindof "meh."

The MTX-L can easily be found for $154 shipped brand new.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Also the AEM UEGO is going for 170 on a couple sites.Seriously these are your best yet affordable options. Not many times can you get CHEAP and GOOD in the same sentence.