Anything wrong with crappy oil lines?
10-28-2009, 08:22 PM
#21
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That may be true....but I'm pretty sure EGTs can reach in excess of 1600 degrees. If you've got a line feeding a turbo, it's not too far from basically a HUGE heat source. I don't know how much heat dissipates within a few inches of radiation...but I would imagine that it's possible to see really high temps in the center of the turbo. Is it possible that it could lead to eventually fatigue/part failure? Just curious.
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10-28-2009, 11:09 PM
#23
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first off that noob on the last page needs to introduce himself or there will be problems... and second OP get a hold of artech he's got good quality kits in all sizes and price ranges!!
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10-29-2009, 12:13 AM
#25
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I dont really see an upside with hard lines vs rubber ( for the MT.netters). With the SS braided its bendable and can be reused for different turbo kits. The hard lines would have to be manufactured specifically for the turbo kit. Why fix something that aint broke?
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10-29-2009, 12:54 AM
#27
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Pipe doesnt just bend unless you know what your doing. It has to be massaged to prevent pinching. Pinched lines = bad churby. Most likely will cost more and isnt worth the time. Call me old fashioned but i think the SS braided lines are; cheaper, look better, same performance, reusable, flexible, and just plain cool.
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10-30-2009, 04:46 PM
#34
^ the man is right.
That's a universal kit. More than likely you will need additional parts to make everything fit and that will likely bring the price to something higher than one of the better kits. For starters, that turbo inlet flange does not fit a T25, so if that's what you have, you will need an adapter for it. Also, the oil pan fitting they're including is a weld on bung. Unless you want to drop the subframe, you'll need an adapter fitting for this as well. Those brass tees, are known to break off. I've personally had it happen. To prevent it, you may need a looped copper line between the tee and block. Also, the tee is NPT threaded. You will cross-thread your BSPT oil pressure sender by screwing it directly. It's not clear if a BSPT>NPT adapter is included for the block, if not, you will strip that as well.
I would also question the quality of their SS feed line. You want a teflon inner liner to handle the heat. Judging by the size of that line, I'd bet its rubber lined, which is only good for 200-250F.
If you have a 90-95 block the best setup is what I have in my sig. The motor already has a oil port on the drivers side so you don't need to tee into the oil pressure sender at all.
That's a universal kit. More than likely you will need additional parts to make everything fit and that will likely bring the price to something higher than one of the better kits. For starters, that turbo inlet flange does not fit a T25, so if that's what you have, you will need an adapter for it. Also, the oil pan fitting they're including is a weld on bung. Unless you want to drop the subframe, you'll need an adapter fitting for this as well. Those brass tees, are known to break off. I've personally had it happen. To prevent it, you may need a looped copper line between the tee and block. Also, the tee is NPT threaded. You will cross-thread your BSPT oil pressure sender by screwing it directly. It's not clear if a BSPT>NPT adapter is included for the block, if not, you will strip that as well.
I would also question the quality of their SS feed line. You want a teflon inner liner to handle the heat. Judging by the size of that line, I'd bet its rubber lined, which is only good for 200-250F.
If you have a 90-95 block the best setup is what I have in my sig. The motor already has a oil port on the drivers side so you don't need to tee into the oil pressure sender at all.
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10-31-2009, 06:19 PM
#36
Someone said further back that hard lines are hard to get sealed. This can be true if you're using flared lines, but for water lines an industrial compression fitting is stupid simple and you have to work to make them not seal up. For low pressure water lines (and really even the oil lines are low pressure from an industrial standpoint), the compression fittings are more than adequate.
That said... I'm going to make mine from Earls fittings and hose, much easier to make and route.
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10-31-2009, 09:25 PM
#38
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At this point looking at all of the people on this site that have done it, or redone it, some cases multiple times, think Tim, or Hustler. Why not just go with whats been proven to work. Innovation is one thing, but hard lines aren't innovation.
Last edited by apariah; 11-01-2009 at 12:06 PM.
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10-31-2009, 09:42 PM
#39
It may have happened, but from personal experience working/welding with aluminum every day this is what i think. Aluminum dissipates heat at a high rate compared to steel. The oil supplying the turbo will also cool the lines. I would doubt it unless you were out of oil and really rev happy at which point your turbo would not make boost anymore. More than likely you will catch up on this and stop driving before your fittings blow.
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11-01-2009, 05:20 PM
#40
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^ the man is right.
That's a universal kit. More than likely you will need additional parts to make everything fit and that will likely bring the price to something higher than one of the better kits. For starters, that turbo inlet flange does not fit a T25, so if that's what you have, you will need an adapter for it. Also, the oil pan fitting they're including is a weld on bung. Unless you want to drop the subframe, you'll need an adapter fitting for this as well. Those brass tees, are known to break off. I've personally had it happen. To prevent it, you may need a looped copper line between the tee and block. Also, the tee is NPT threaded. You will cross-thread your BSPT oil pressure sender by screwing it directly. It's not clear if a BSPT>NPT adapter is included for the block, if not, you will strip that as well.
I would also question the quality of their SS feed line. You want a teflon inner liner to handle the heat. Judging by the size of that line, I'd bet its rubber lined, which is only good for 200-250F.
If you have a 90-95 block the best setup is what I have in my sig. The motor already has a oil port on the drivers side so you don't need to tee into the oil pressure sender at all.
That's a universal kit. More than likely you will need additional parts to make everything fit and that will likely bring the price to something higher than one of the better kits. For starters, that turbo inlet flange does not fit a T25, so if that's what you have, you will need an adapter for it. Also, the oil pan fitting they're including is a weld on bung. Unless you want to drop the subframe, you'll need an adapter fitting for this as well. Those brass tees, are known to break off. I've personally had it happen. To prevent it, you may need a looped copper line between the tee and block. Also, the tee is NPT threaded. You will cross-thread your BSPT oil pressure sender by screwing it directly. It's not clear if a BSPT>NPT adapter is included for the block, if not, you will strip that as well.
I would also question the quality of their SS feed line. You want a teflon inner liner to handle the heat. Judging by the size of that line, I'd bet its rubber lined, which is only good for 200-250F.
If you have a 90-95 block the best setup is what I have in my sig. The motor already has a oil port on the drivers side so you don't need to tee into the oil pressure sender at all.
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