Braineack

iTrader: (62)

That fact that you've somehow convinced yourself that's having less torque is quicker/better performance and that having more boost at redline is safer makes it even better.

seriously, why aren't you toying with Rotrex superchargers?

nitrodann

Do you genuinely not understand or am.I being trolled?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

No troll. I 100% completely understand how ridiculous you are. Otherwise I'd accuse you of trolling.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

It's almost like you two are intentionally not actually reading what the two of you are posting.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

That is not creep. That is a controlled ramp-up of boost to compensate for tapering airflow. Creep is something you can't control.

I know what you're saying though, I sometimes do the same

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

probably.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Reduced performance... what?

He'll get more out of it by having that boost on sooner vs taper up and having more power under the curve.

Power under the curve is the best thing about being able to tune a car. If you only want some peaky top end... BLEH.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Says the Honda boy.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Goddamnit.

He's saying hit your boost necessary to make your torque target, then taper up from there to keep the torque target from onset all the way to redline.

This gives you no less power anywhere, AND gives you more power up top.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

with the assumption that torque output alone, not cylinder pressure, bends rods.

I would agree that, in an ideal situation, I'd rather make 15psi at 3K, then increase boost to redline to keep the TQ from dropping--which really isn't that dramatic on our motors in the first place if you can size the turbo correctly.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Then you guys are in agreement. Don't make me knock your heads together.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

DO IT!

nitrodann

Ideal situation, like everyone with megasquirt and a mac valve?

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Oh ho ho... ima get you.

Corky Bell

SAV has the right idea in my view. Your set up is little different than the integral gate.

The right angle mounting of the gate places the valve/flow relationship square on the same geometry as the integral.

The gate should never be "like this." Again, no different than the integral, save a bigger valve. A bigger valve ain't the problem.

Turn the vent from the exhaust housing 90 degrees, leaning it directly outboard. Literally, bore a hole straight out from the inlet flange through the scroll as it begins to turn downward. Patch the present hole.

This puts the wastegate on a path with the centerline straight out from the manifold exit.

While doing that, check the valve seat on the gate, also.

corky