Cpt. Slow '95 T3 Build - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 11-13-2008, 01:01 PM   #1
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Default Cpt. Slow '95 T3 Build

I finally got the Miata into the garage to tear apart for the build up. I'm starting this thread as a log of the build. I have learned heaps from this site, so hopefully my experiences will help out someone else someday.

Here's what I have so far:
-Homemade MS1 - Thanks Braineack!
-Old Saab T3 that looks rebuilt. Haven't cleaned it yet
-3" catback

-Previous Owner claims there are after market pistons and aluminum flywheel + nicer clutch. I'll find out soon if that's correct.

Next on the list is WBO2 and then Turbo mani. I'm about 90% certain I'll get a JGS weld-it-yourself kit and have my welder buddy put it together.

I also still need:
-IAT sensor
-e-boost controller?
-MAP sensor
-ebay intercooler + piping
-couplers
-ebay BOV
-water/oil lines and fittings
-boost gauge
-iac mod completed on MS board
-Plugs/Wires or COPs
-custom DP
-probably more that I can't think of now.

I pulled it into the garage last night because she's leaking oil pretty badly from the front seal and oil pump area as well as the oil pan.
I started getting it ready for an engine pull last night. I figured that as long as I have it out I'm going to pull the head and do a mild port job and verify everything is ready for more power.

I checked my compression the other day and was only getting 140 +/-5 psi on all 4. Seems kind of low. I'm not sure if it's do to rings, or lower C/R pistons. I'll have to find out what kind of pistons are in there before I can tell.

Anyways... I'm looking to be boosted by spring time. I'll keep the log going as I progress. Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

-SC
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Old 11-13-2008, 01:08 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Cpt_Slow View Post
I checked my compression the other day and was only getting 140 +/-5 psi on all 4. Seems kind of low. I'm not sure if it's do to rings, or lower C/R pistons. I'll have to find out what kind of pistons are in there before I can tell.

Did you check with the throttle wide open?
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Old 11-13-2008, 01:12 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Did you check with the throttle wide open?
I'm trying to remember now. I remember thinking that I needed to hold the throttle wide open while I was setting it up, but then I had my bro-in-law crank it while I was holding the gauge. I can't recall if I told him to hold it wide open or not. I'll double check it... thanks for the recommendation.
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Old 11-13-2008, 04:18 PM   #4
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Alright - I'm making some progress. I found a guy locally who had an LC-1 with the XD-16 gauge on his EVO, but changed to an AEM WB because he's running AEM ECU. Anyhow. I got the Sensor/LC-1 and XD-16 for $150. He said it was only in his car for 2 months, and it looks almost new.
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Old 11-13-2008, 04:52 PM   #5
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that's a good deal.
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Old 11-20-2008, 12:42 AM   #6
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what kind of T3 turbo? size and all
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Old 11-21-2008, 12:30 AM   #7
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The T3 is just a little guy for now. It's a T0357 from an old Saab Turbo. I can't remember the specs, but it's small.

I am gteting closer than I thought. My manifold kit was dilivered from JGS today. That was spectacular shipping time! My buddy who works at a fab shop said he would piece it together for me for free. I ordered a IAT sensor from DIYautotune just a minute ago.

List of still needs is:
-Boost gauge (or see if my existing autometer gauge can be salvaged)
-BOV
-Intercooler/pipes/couplers
-Downpipe
-hoses/fittings

Other updates:

Last Saturday I got all ready to pull the engine and tranny. The tranny is actually being supported by a jack right now, and all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine. Should be able to sort out the leaks easy enough, and replace the head gasket. I don't think I'll get around to porting the head as I am so close to getting all the parts I am going to want to get it all together quickly.

Good news is that I think I have enough money set aside in my car fund that I should be able to finish up if my fab friend can make a DP for cheap. Can't wait to boost!
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Old 12-04-2008, 02:43 PM   #8
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It was a great day yesterday! I got all my oil leaks sorted I think. When I pulled the tranny off I found a whole bunch of oil and junk inside the bell housing. I think this is due to a bad rear main seal. Replaced that. Then I got the oil pan off and pulled the oil pump. The pump didn't have a gasket, just some remnants of liquid gasket crap, and not much at all. The out port for the pump to the block had it's O-ring, but with no other gasket there I could tell it had been leaking a bit. Also, the driver's side bolt on the pump wasn't there at all. Not hard to see why it was dripping. Anyhow, put a real gasket on there and put back together then put the oil pan back on with new end seals. Next was the front main seal. I couldn't figure out why it was leaking so badly after I replaced it last time, but when I got it off I compared it to my new one, and the original and the one I replaced was noticeably smaller than the other 2... Replaced it with new. All of the oil bits are back together with new seals, so I'm optimistic that I won't be leaving any more oil trails.

The engine is sitting pretty on a stand now, and I've been scraping the last 13 yrs worth of oil and dirt out of all the nooks. It's starting to look nice.

After reading through the "What would you have done differently" thread, I decided that I'm going to just put in the injectors, IAT sensor and WBO2 and run MS to work out the kinks before I boost.

One crappy thing I discovered when I pulled the tranny off was that the clutch looked OEM... the kid I bought it from said it was an upgrade with an aluminum flywheel. Both are stock. That puts the budget back slightly since I had to order a clutch. I ordered one from Gripforce after reading mostly good reviews on the F1 Racing stg 3 clutch. Hopefully it wasn't a bad idea. Couldn't actually find feedback on them here, but a bunch of Honda guys have used them and had good reviews. We'll see.

My buddy welded the JGS log mani together. actually, the log is together and tacked to the engine flange. Welds are freaking beautiful. Will have to get the engine back into the bay to check for placement of the turbo.

Sorry for the long update. Pics to come soon if I can get them off my camera without the card reader.
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Old 12-04-2008, 04:22 PM   #9
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Here is the mani...


Here it is from the top...


From the front...


And here's the bay waiting for the engine...
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:02 PM   #10
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awesome pictures...
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:17 PM   #11
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i have the F1 Racing stg 1 clutch it's been on for a year and half and it still grips well no problems i was actually shocked it even worked like it supposed to but im stock overall im saving cash to go turbo soon
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:35 PM   #12
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awesome pictures...
+1
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Old 01-15-2009, 02:50 PM   #13
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Update for anyone who is bored...

The F1 clutch has been great on stock power. I really am anxious to see how it does with much more HP going through it. I'll make sure I do a review on it once I have been boosted for a while.

Since I put it back together I have had some hesitation in the mid range and I'm getting lean readings on the NBo2 gauge - there's another thread on that issue.

Anyhow, I couldn't sleep last night cause I had this itch to get out to the car, so I went out to the garage and ripped apart the T3. A couple of issues I have been mulling over for a while are:
1) I have a 11 or 12 psi internal waste gate on the T3, and I want to be able to pull it back to around 6 psi at first so I don't explode anything while I'm still in early tuning.
2) I haven't ever been a fan of most Miata downpipes that require the tight 90* turn right off the turbo, so I would really like another solution if possible.

Ever since I put my log mani on the head for a trial fit I have been obsessing about a bottom mount turbo solution. This would give me a much straighter shot on the DP as well as better weight placement, but there are some problems with this. First problem is the WG actuator is freaking huge and doesn't want to fit down between the block and the wheel well. Second issue is the water line running from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump. I don't have PS or A/C so I think I have some flexibility rerouting that line.
As for the waste gate actuator being in the way, I'm really leaning more towards an EWG and divorced gas DP. This particular turbo has the WG flap in a sort of flange that bolts to the hot side. I'm not sure if that is common or not among turbos. If I simply remove that flange and gate, I can block the whole with one of those 5 bolt flanges and run the WG separately. I think there's enough room with that removed that I can fit a turbo on the bottom side of the log JGS manifold.

Can anyone see any more problems I haven't accounted for? Anyone know of bottom mount examples I should check out?
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Old 01-15-2009, 02:54 PM   #14
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yeah I can see another problem, no pictures! but apparently the sarcasm of my previous post was lost on you. Did you write the post and forget to copy and paste in the picture links? I've done that.
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Old 01-15-2009, 03:35 PM   #15
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Sorry about the pics... I think it was a sizing issue. I have scaled them down some. Let's try this again. They're a little old now though.






Enjoy!

Last edited by Cpt_Slow; 01-15-2009 at 03:45 PM. Reason: Pics were too big
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Old 01-15-2009, 04:45 PM   #16
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hm, no pictars for me

I had to relocate the wastegate actuator so that I could clock my turbo.

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be careful where you mount the actuator (in relation to the wastegate arm), because you want to be able to get the most travel that you can, so mounting the actuator at 90* to the arm should give you maximum travel.

(pay no attention to my wastegate testing rig)
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Old 01-15-2009, 05:15 PM   #17
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Looks good.

edit: now they work
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