Custom Exhaust Manifold is cracked / has hole... what could have caused this?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 236
Total Cats: 4
From: Manassas, VA
I welded the crack up, despite how I kept going right through it... it really is thin metal. I ran a few thicks beads across it hoping to give it a little more structure... I only want it to last a few more thousand miles... we will see.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 236
Total Cats: 4
From: Manassas, VA
Unfortunately having issues with my new exhaust manifold and looking for some advice/tips on the support braces i'm about to make. I dont want to mount to the valve cover bolts so mounting locations are limited... but welding is an option.

This is the new manifold Ive been using.

Downpipe to transmission bracket. I will defintiely use this.


or

This is the new manifold Ive been using.

Downpipe to transmission bracket. I will defintiely use this.


or
Other than the fact that it is a cheap POS manifold to begin with, the heat wrap was probably a contributing factor. It allows moisture to get trapped next to the manifold, which can create large temperature gradients between nearby sections of metal, which leads to stress cracking.
you cant brace it off the head, there will be dramatic differences in thermal expansion and it will cause another failure.
If that is thick material you wont need any bracing, that looks like a JGS to me, so that means its basically made of weld-els and should be plenty strong.
If that is thick material you wont need any bracing, that looks like a JGS to me, so that means its basically made of weld-els and should be plenty strong.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 236
Total Cats: 4
From: Manassas, VA
you cant brace it off the head, there will be dramatic differences in thermal expansion and it will cause another failure.
If that is thick material you wont need any bracing, that looks like a JGS to me, so that means its basically made of weld-els and should be plenty strong.
If that is thick material you wont need any bracing, that looks like a JGS to me, so that means its basically made of weld-els and should be plenty strong.
Last edited by wrxnova; Feb 24, 2010 at 09:47 PM.
hey look at that, cracked in the same spot...but my turbo sat directly off #2. Mine cracked from too much exhaust bracing, I had my DP mounted firmly to the tranny.
Brace turbo mani to downpipe trans brace. Weld a tab to both the manifold and downpipe and bolt a fitted DIY steel bracket to it. I have had an ebay manifold and I was able to extend the life by doing this after it cracked a couple of times, along with an extra tab and bracket to the car's body, with swivel joints of course.
Edit: this may only work for my top mount, I forgot yours is a log... my bad. Brace downpipe to the block, where the tranny bolts to.
Edit: this may only work for my top mount, I forgot yours is a log... my bad. Brace downpipe to the block, where the tranny bolts to.
Read through this, Keith explains the issue pretty well: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t43572/
(Post #9)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 236
Total Cats: 4
From: Manassas, VA
Got BEGi parts.
Read through this, Keith explains the issue pretty well: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t43572/
(Post #9)
Read through this, Keith explains the issue pretty well: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t43572/
(Post #9)
A crack like that in a sched 40 pipe mani looks like the need for flange cuts. That said, the weld looks like it lacked penetration based on the rather large ridge. And I'd expect the load oriented crack to be in a weld running the opposite direction, like at the head flange or turbine flange- perpendicular to the load action.







