Custom Exhaust Manifold is cracked / has hole... what could have caused this? - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-05-2010, 11:23 AM   #41
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Should have made text a bit larger, sorry... but the arrows give you an idea of where the cracks are.


Its way worse than expected. On the center portion a crack runs nearly the entire way around and on the 2 outside runners cracks are developing on either side. This is a JGS stage 2 manifold (which was already welded together, which means all i had to do was weld on the turbo flange). All these cracks make me think that my bolts holding the turbo to the manifold allowed it to shift side to side thus cracking it. Im going to weld nuts to the bottom of the turbo flange to hopefully relieve me of this issue. Any advice is appreciated. This next time the manifold is being welded it will be done by a friend that welds for a living so hopefully he can do a better job.

Last edited by wrxnova; 03-05-2010 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 03-05-2010, 06:40 PM   #42
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HOLY. Buy a new manifold now.
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:31 PM   #43
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needs more absurdness.
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:38 PM   #44
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Fixed... I believe. Took the manifold to a friend thats been welding for 20 years and he blamed the manufacturer immediately after looking at. He claimed none of the welds by JGS (holding the elbows to the t pipe pieces) had penetrated deep enough. He drilled holes at the start and finish of each crack, then made V cuts with a dye grinder down each of the cracks (where the pieces were welded by JGS), then ran a solid bead down each of the V grooves. Its not as pretty but functional again. Pics coming soon.
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Old 03-05-2010, 08:31 PM   #45
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now fix your gas tank too.
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Old 03-06-2010, 12:03 AM   #46
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imo that is stress/vibration maybe throw a brace in the mix for insurance.
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Old 03-06-2010, 07:10 PM   #47
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still needs to be cleaned up but very functional
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:10 PM   #48
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The log gets gobs hotter than the flange, thus its gets longer by even more gobs than the flange. Cut the flange between every port, literally slice it into four pieces. Then when the log heats up, the flange will slip on the head rather than force the log to crack.
It will warp when cut, but grind it flat.


Also, tighten the manifold to head stud/nuts a bit less.

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