DIY Downpipe to tailpipe *56k Warning*
05-05-2009, 04:00 PM
#23
Must have lathe in garage before I get fired for my "saturday projects" at work (I don't even work in the machine shop anymore, but somehow find reasons to go back there when I should be in my "closet").
Super nice build. I'm trying to buy some bends right now, and will probably fab my own (on Saturdays of course). $150 at local muffler shop was cheap, but can't bring myself to live with crush bends. And all the mandrel systems are way out of my budget.
What bends precisely did you need to get around diff and to muffler? (EDIT: The pics are nice, but it's hard to piece it all together in my head)
I know I'll need a 90 on the other side to bumper exit, and I'm guessing I need atleast one "U" and two 45s to get over rear brace and into muffler.
Super nice build. I'm trying to buy some bends right now, and will probably fab my own (on Saturdays of course). $150 at local muffler shop was cheap, but can't bring myself to live with crush bends. And all the mandrel systems are way out of my budget.
What bends precisely did you need to get around diff and to muffler? (EDIT: The pics are nice, but it's hard to piece it all together in my head)
I know I'll need a 90 on the other side to bumper exit, and I'm guessing I need atleast one "U" and two 45s to get over rear brace and into muffler.
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05-05-2009, 07:08 PM
#25
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See pic 13 on my second set of pics. There was a gap that wouldn't work for connecting the lower and upper downpipe together. So i just turned down some pipe that was a bit too large until it was just right
gospeed81
If you see my build you will notice that im not that far yet. What i plan to do is use 2 45* to limit backpressure. Ive seen some that go 90 up and over and then another 90 out.
1 90* is = to 20ft of straight pipe ( backpressure ) the less bends you use the more your turbo can breathe!
gospeed81
If you see my build you will notice that im not that far yet. What i plan to do is use 2 45* to limit backpressure. Ive seen some that go 90 up and over and then another 90 out.
1 90* is = to 20ft of straight pipe ( backpressure ) the less bends you use the more your turbo can breathe!
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05-05-2009, 08:02 PM
#26
gospeed81
If you see my build you will notice that im not that far yet. What i plan to do is use 2 45* to limit backpressure. Ive seen some that go 90 up and over and then another 90 out.
1 90* is = to 20ft of straight pipe ( backpressure ) the less bends you use the more your turbo can breathe!
Fluid Mechanics FTMFW!
Took it last semester, got an A, was laughing the whole way through the "coolant reroute" thread.
I'm trying to find the simplest route out too. I noticed y8s has a big 180 on his going into muffler, and I'm trying to avoid this, especially since I'm building in 2.5" (already have 2.5" 200cell/in metal cat and 2.5" muffler). I'm even thinking about putting the muffler in an unconvential spot.
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05-05-2009, 10:18 PM
#28
Fluid Mechanics FTMFW!
Took it last semester, got an A, was laughing the whole way through the "coolant reroute" thread.
I'm trying to find the simplest route out too. I noticed y8s has a big 180 on his going into muffler, and I'm trying to avoid this, especially since I'm building in 2.5" (already have 2.5" 200cell/in metal cat and 2.5" muffler). I'm even thinking about putting the muffler in an unconvential spot.
Took it last semester, got an A, was laughing the whole way through the "coolant reroute" thread.
I'm trying to find the simplest route out too. I noticed y8s has a big 180 on his going into muffler, and I'm trying to avoid this, especially since I'm building in 2.5" (already have 2.5" 200cell/in metal cat and 2.5" muffler). I'm even thinking about putting the muffler in an unconvential spot.
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05-05-2009, 10:27 PM
#29
I feel like I saw that back when I was a newb, and it impressed me. That is badass. I plan to replicate this.
While on the topic, will I be okay without a flex joint? My downpipe has a sleeve joint with a band clamp on it, and there will be one 2 bolt flange before the cat. I plan to weld everything after that.
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05-05-2009, 11:46 PM
#30
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Tonight got some welding done before and after English 101. Since my old welding instructors are so cool they let me use their machine, rod, and GAS!!
1. Flange top side
2. Flange side view
3. Full shot
4. Sleeve end ( notice the penetration )
5. Inside flange view. I only got crystals 3 little times from the angle of the tube being to sharp to get my tungsten in there right. I also welded the inside for added strength ( yes im going to sand this down nice and beautiful)
Also notice the penetration on the second joint
6. view of one of the Seperated gases pipe that i welded at the right angle for reintroduction
7. another view
8. close up! damn flash!
9. tried to get the shot of penetration o wells.
gospeed81- The purpose of the flex joint is to reduce stress on your manifold/downpipe. When the motor is experiencing a load it twists side to side. Now your cat back exhaust is held in by hangers that are attached to rubber. This is to give it more sway.
the downside of using a flex pipe is that its more prone to exhaust leaks because its not a solid tube ( go figure ) I decided to use one because its easy for me to cut one out and weld a new one on if it ever does happen.
Will you be okay without one? probably
Should you get one? Up to you
Do i recommend it? Yes
1. Flange top side
2. Flange side view
3. Full shot
4. Sleeve end ( notice the penetration )
5. Inside flange view. I only got crystals 3 little times from the angle of the tube being to sharp to get my tungsten in there right. I also welded the inside for added strength ( yes im going to sand this down nice and beautiful)
Also notice the penetration on the second joint
6. view of one of the Seperated gases pipe that i welded at the right angle for reintroduction
7. another view
8. close up! damn flash!
9. tried to get the shot of penetration o wells.
gospeed81- The purpose of the flex joint is to reduce stress on your manifold/downpipe. When the motor is experiencing a load it twists side to side. Now your cat back exhaust is held in by hangers that are attached to rubber. This is to give it more sway.
the downside of using a flex pipe is that its more prone to exhaust leaks because its not a solid tube ( go figure ) I decided to use one because its easy for me to cut one out and weld a new one on if it ever does happen.
Will you be okay without one? probably
Should you get one? Up to you
Do i recommend it? Yes
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05-06-2009, 01:26 AM
#33
Cpt. Slow
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OMG! You turned down a piece of pipe to a slightly smallar diameter! You're a mother f'ing lathe goddess!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
j/k, as a machinist I had to give ya ****, anything made on that puny lathe that works as intended is impressive, good job so far. NW MT members FTMFW!
j/k, as a machinist I had to give ya ****, anything made on that puny lathe that works as intended is impressive, good job so far. NW MT members FTMFW!
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05-07-2009, 12:32 AM
#38
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Tonight i got the first section of my 3 part exhaust done. Turned out better than what i expected although due to the limited space i couldn't route the wastegate port exactly where i wanted it. But hey; for my first time ever building an exhaust it will work.
1. Testing the fitup
2. Another view
3. Marking out the whole of where i need to tap it back in
4. i first started drilling holes around the perimiter
5. Then i rememberd i had 25 pack of dremel cutoff wheels
6. Smoothed out the hole so its nice and clean.
7. Tacked in, Off to the welding classroom!
8. Welded where i tapped back into the main pipe
9. Top side.
10. Faraway shot.
11. Closeup of top side
12. Bottom side
13 Turbo mating side
14. Another view of bottom side. The only part that looks not as good as it should is right on the bottom side where the flange, 2 1/2" and 1 1/2" pipe mate. Absolutely ridiculously impossible to get my tungsten/rod in there even with the stubby
now onto my english paper
1. Testing the fitup
2. Another view
3. Marking out the whole of where i need to tap it back in
4. i first started drilling holes around the perimiter
5. Then i rememberd i had 25 pack of dremel cutoff wheels
6. Smoothed out the hole so its nice and clean.
7. Tacked in, Off to the welding classroom!
8. Welded where i tapped back into the main pipe
9. Top side.
10. Faraway shot.
11. Closeup of top side
12. Bottom side
13 Turbo mating side
14. Another view of bottom side. The only part that looks not as good as it should is right on the bottom side where the flange, 2 1/2" and 1 1/2" pipe mate. Absolutely ridiculously impossible to get my tungsten/rod in there even with the stubby
now onto my english paper
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05-07-2009, 12:57 AM
#39
Cpt. Slow
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Whoa. Your lack of lathe skill is made up for ten fold by your welding/fabricating skills, that's f'ing gorgeous dude! Nice job.
Could you copy and paste the image locations between your little picture descriptions? That way if we wanna read about what we're looking at, we don't have to scroll up a bunch.
Could you copy and paste the image locations between your little picture descriptions? That way if we wanna read about what we're looking at, we don't have to scroll up a bunch.
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