DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

DIY preliminary results

Old 10-05-2012, 01:19 PM
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Nice launch and drive! Was that ign break-up at the top? You rank high in Miata turbo user satisfaction.
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Old 10-05-2012, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
Nice launch and drive! Was that ign break-up at the top? You rank high in Miata turbo user satisfaction.
Break up and possibly boost cut is my guess. You aren't supposed to run E85 that rich but in my defense, I didn't tune it for that boost level! It was outrageously rich, I think I could see the fuel gauge going down as I went through the traps. The 22 year old stock 1.6 ignition system probably didn't help too much either.

I admit, I have a LOT of fun with it especially on the street!
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:48 AM
  #103  
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Went back through and it you are still running the EWG on the original number 4 runner location, but with a brace on the VTA pipe - correct?
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
Went back through and it you are still running the EWG on the original number 4 runner location, but with a brace on the VTA pipe - correct?
Yup, same manifold. The same one that EVERYONE says is non functional! Yes, brace to the VTA pipe and one to the turbo center section.

Are you still running it too?
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:24 PM
  #105  
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I plan too. I'm still reconstructing from the tree crushing my car way back. Making many changes to the new FE3 installation and am considering the EWG as it will make the new engine position (1-2" lower and back) much easier with the down pipe since there would not be the space lost to the internal wastegate. Downpipe would come straight off/down from the turbine housing. Did you do the VTA pipe for a specific reason vs. back into the exhaust?
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
I plan too. I'm still reconstructing from the tree crushing my car way back. Making many changes to the new FE3 installation and am considering the EWG as it will make the new engine position (1-2" lower and back) much easier with the down pipe since there would not be the space lost to the internal wastegate. Downpipe would come straight off/down from the turbine housing. Did you do the VTA pipe for a specific reason vs. back into the exhaust?
Because racecar?

VTA was easier to fab, especially due to space constraints. I envy having more room for the downpipe. Engine setback is awesome.

Coming from a lifetime of rotaries I have a really high threshold for noise. That is also the reason I'm nuts about getting every last bit of flow, on the cheap of course. I made a small VTA muffler for events that have sound limits. It makes it silent. I'll find a picture to post, someone might be interested.

Thanks to your pictures, I cut down a 25+ year old, 40' stupid ash tree that was up against the house. So, you've given some really good tips so far, thanks!
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:49 PM
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Last car I cut that firewall shelf under the brake master/booster to make room for the downpipe- but that was because I was trying to make a less restrictive down turn. So this time around I'm actually compensating for the new engine position and the larger FE3.

I'd like to see a pic of the EWG VTA muff- what's it from?

yeah learn from my mistakes. Except my neighbor's, neighbor's trees can still crush me.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:19 PM
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I cobbled scrap tubing together to make the muffler. The body is 3" squished into an oval until the small (excess from the VTA) tubing will fit. The ends of the tubing are spaced back from the end caps to make the "Z" ("S"? "N"?) flow path. The end caps are made from scrap 16ga sheet. The mount is from a muffler hanger off of a '78 Dodge truck.

It bolts somewhere on the sub frame and the flex tubing slips right over the VTA pipe so install/removal takes just a few minutes. I tried to angle things so that it doesn't put too much stress on the VTA pipe. The reason I leave it off is to reduce stress on that #4 flange.

When installed, it is silent and doesn't seem to have any effect on boost levels.

FYI, I was the proud owner of a turbo FE3 in our '90 MX-6 GT. I bumped the boost to 13psi when it had ~180k miles. The chip was supposed to be "tuned" at 15-16psi but the wideband said otherwise.

Sold it to a friend and rumor is that it has over 230k miles - stock and original turbo, clutch, alternator and who knows what else.
Attached Thumbnails DIY preliminary results-1206081608b.jpg   DIY preliminary results-1206081608.jpg   DIY preliminary results-1206081627.jpg   DIY preliminary results-1208081308.jpg  
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:33 PM
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/\ The EWG muffler thing is VERY COOL. I'm going to try and see if I can make one too. VTA + silent = winsauce
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:46 PM
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agreed- ewg muff is new to me, very cool. The slip fit doesn't create any load on the on the #4 runner (via the ewg) correct? Trying to understand this- the ewg is mounted to the subframe and the ewg is rocking with the engine so the slip fit has the ewg pipe sliding inside the fixed muff pipe...
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:22 PM
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neat idea! +1
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by dvcn
I cobbled scrap tubing together to make the muffler. The body is 3" squished into an oval until the small (excess from the VTA) tubing will fit. The ends of the tubing are spaced back from the end caps to make the "Z" ("S"? "N"?) flow path. The end caps are made from scrap 16ga sheet. The mount is from a muffler hanger off of a '78 Dodge truck.

It bolts somewhere on the sub frame and the flex tubing slips right over the VTA pipe so install/removal takes just a few minutes. I tried to angle things so that it doesn't put too much stress on the VTA pipe. The reason I leave it off is to reduce stress on that #4 flange.

When installed, it is silent and doesn't seem to have any effect on boost levels.

FYI, I was the proud owner of a turbo FE3 in our '90 MX-6 GT. I bumped the boost to 13psi when it had ~180k miles. The chip was supposed to be "tuned" at 15-16psi but the wideband said otherwise.

Sold it to a friend and rumor is that it has over 230k miles - stock and original turbo, clutch, alternator and who knows what else.
F2T, you mean?
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:27 PM
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I'm betting "proud owner of a turbo FE3 in our '90 MX-6 GT" means an FE3 swapped and turbo'd MX-6 GT.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
I'm betting "proud owner of a turbo FE3 in our '90 MX-6 GT" means an FE3 swapped and turbo'd MX-6 GT.
Maybe... but no chips existed for that motor in turbo form to the best of my knowledge, but plenty of F2T chips. Also the mention of stock and original turbo.

Sorry... i realize now that my little semantic post may have derailed the thread. :(
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
agreed- ewg muff is new to me, very cool. The slip fit doesn't create any load on the on the #4 runner (via the ewg) correct? Trying to understand this- the ewg is mounted to the subframe and the ewg is rocking with the engine so the slip fit has the ewg pipe sliding inside the fixed muff pipe...
Some of the other communities use lawnmower mufflers and such but I didn't think they would flow nearly enough, last long term and they cost a lot more than scrap that I had laying around.

Sorry for my poor descriptions!

38mm Tial EGW is bolted to the #4 runner of our favorite SS Autochrome/ebay manifold.

Pipe off EWG dives down and angles slightly rearward:


There is a small brace welded to this pipe that is bolted to an exhaust stud. I guess I could take a picture but I don't want to show my non-SEMA level of fabrication.

The VTA muffler is bolted solidly to the cross-k-sub-frame-member and the flex makes the connection. There is wiggle but not enough to make me feel good about leaving it on all the time. The VTA muffler was a thrash the night before an autox so it wasn't fully thought out. It was meant to be temporary.

I'm sure you will come up with a more elegant setup.


Originally Posted by concealer404
F2T, you mean?
Originally Posted by m2cupcar
I'm betting "proud owner of a turbo FE3 in our '90 MX-6 GT" means an FE3 swapped and turbo'd MX-6 GT.
I was just testing you guys.


(damn you!)
Attached Thumbnails DIY preliminary results-0723071430.jpg  
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Maybe... but no chips existed for that motor in turbo form to the best of my knowledge, but plenty of F2T chips. Also the mention of stock and original turbo.

Sorry... i realize now that my little semantic post may have derailed the thread. :(
I hate you guys.

Ok, now I remember. A friend was trying to sell me an FE3 (Dare I say it was out of a Kia? If I'm wrong, I'm positive that I'll be called on it!) to put in my anemic B2000 truck. Didn't happen.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dvcn
I hate you guys.

Ok, now I remember. A friend was trying to sell me an FE3 (Dare I say it was out of a Kia? If I'm wrong, I'm positive that I'll be called on it!) to put in my anemic B2000 truck. Didn't happen.

Correct! FE3 = Kia. FE-DOHC = Mazda.

<3

This forum needs moar builds like your car instead of badly leaking pocketbooks.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:48 PM
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FE3 is actually the head- the 2 liter long block is FE-dohc. The 1.8 liter longblock is the F8. I've got both a kia, and mazda heads from F8 and FE-dohc sitting on the shelf and they all have FE3 stamped on the head. Are we fully derailed yet? Wait-

back to the EWG dump tube - is that dumping between the oil pan and the subframe?
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
back to the EWG dump tube - is that dumping between the oil pan and the subframe?
Yes. Ideally I would have extended the pipe below the level of the subframe but then I wouldn't be able to easily take it out.

This shows the configuration.


FYI, that is wrapped thin wall aluminized pipe from Summit. That is why my entire exhaust - turbo to tip - cost less than $180. The Dynomax muffler was $80-$90 by itself.
Attached Thumbnails DIY preliminary results-0303001539bturbooutoutofbodyexperie.jpg  
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:02 PM
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Mah shitz gonna be just like that. Only cheaper.
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