Can't you get stainless wire for MIG?

 

Yes but I would have to get gas to go with it. I'll only end up using the stainless wire and gas for this project most likely and then it will go to waste. I mean, if I can get the gas for like 40 bucks (ya right) then i'd prolly just do it.

 

Or just give your $40 to sbkcocker and win.

 

Exactly my point. The problem is that I might have to do it in 2 trips. I dont see how i'm going to be able to cut the holes for the middle 2 runners without the outter runners being welded together.

 

You know im a fabricator right???

 

I don't have time right now to read this whole thread and say how awesome you are doing, but based on the first post you are doign awesome. My first manifold was done just like yours, with a hack saw and those little 1" diameter dremel cutoff discs (a whole sleeve of them). So you're on the right track.

However, my biggest concern is that your turbo will hit the block. Those 1.5" pipe weld elbows are 2.25 radius, so you are about 2.75 away from the block when you include the flange...not gonna work, at least I don't think it will.

Sorry if this was mentioned already or you knew it. Tack it together and see if you got clearance with the turbine/motor mount bolts and the compressor/block.

 

No, your'e right. Turbo will hit the block at this point definitely. I haven't decided if I want to rotate the collector out or if I want to add spacers in between the flange and the runners. Going to play with some things tomorrow.

 

Needs more tacos! LOL ld joke:

Seriously, that sucks. Bolt it on, hold stuff up to it and go from there. That's the joy of DIY. Just make it work.

 

Also, I used stainless weld els and wiertech mild steel flanges together. Use 309L filler rod to join the two with no problems. In a year now, I have seen no rust on my flanges to speak of and the stainless to mild joints have held up fine. It's been done by many people before me. Stainless flanges are 3X times the mild steel price.[/QUOTE]

I used this 309L rod on Friday on a pool heat exchanger and it worked great to join stainless to carbon steel. you might want to try and see if they make wire in that same material for your flanges and just have the rest TIGed by someone else.

 

Got some more exercise today.

As Tim pointed out, the turbo was certainly going to hit the block. I decided to space the manifold out a bit, and also lift it a bit higher to make sure i'd miss the motor mount. To do this I basically just cut 1" straight pieces of pipe and taked them onto the manifold. Then turned my runners a few degrees so they were pointed up. I got the left runner cut and tacked into place. I started making my cut for the right runner and my hacksaw broke :(

I also started cleaning the metal before tacking it since its a lot easier than breaking the tacks later to clean it.

Pics:

 

Those cheater cuts will hurt you. I think you're making this more complicated than it needs to be. Looks like you still have two good elbows. If I were you, I would scrap that idea and go with your first design. You just needed to rotate the collector forward. You're not gonna hit the motor mount.

 

You sure? With the first design the thing hung really low. I'm also concerned with it hitting the steering stuff as well. At this point I need to get a new cutting device and just pull the car into the garage and use it to finish this. To difficult with just an engine on a table. Need to get it done by this weekend.

 

Not 100% sure, but it's worth a try. These are the best pictures I could find for clearance:

Steering shaft:



Motor mount:



Yours sits lower so YMMV, but I don't think it will hit at the right angle. Tape it and test fit until it's just right.

A cutoff wheel in a grinder works well for making cuts. It'll need a little clean up but it cant be worse than a hacksaw

 

i agree with ARTech (as usual). dont do cheater cuts if for no reason than it looks cheated. rotate collector to the angle in ARTechs pics. tape and check or tack. And ABSOLUTELY get the $10 HF angle grinder & some $4 recessed cutoff wheels. goes infinitely quicker and less labor. trust me. been there done that dont rush it you are doing great!

 

Well I can say that you are showing dedication. Are you going to come down ?

 

A'ite you got me motivated enough to get off the couch. All I have is 1.8 geometry which is different, but hopefully this gets you close.

A 30° turbine flange angle from horizontal gets you a turbine shaft height almost dead nuts vertical and .262" lower than the standard Absurdflow low mount manifold. There should be clearance downwards, and if you aren't using a vband or .86 housing there should be lots of clearance with the motormount.

 

Holy ******* ****, thanks man. I've wished I had the skills to whip that up for a long time now lol.

Ok, you convinced me. I'll get rid of the cheater pieces, use my 2 remaining bends that are unmolested and use some straight pipe for the center runners.

Sbk, i'm going to be down this weekend but not sure if i'll have enough time to spend much time at your place. If I get this manifold done by then i'll come over, have a couple beers while you get started and prolly come back another day to pick it up. We'll see.

 

No problem. And thank you, looks like a new absurdflow maybe...less cutting than the standard...hehe.

If you're feeling adventurous and want to do the blended style, get me the bore spacing for the 1.6 and I'll throw those dims in, and get you the angles for the center primaries.

If not, I also did a quick straight pipe for the middle 2 primaries. That'd be easy.

 

Wow, I dont know if I can pull off a 4 into 1 collector like that. But damn if that isn't bitchin. Although, I think i'd need a couple more bends for that since I already screwed a couple up with my earlier nonsense.

Here it is back to the original design. The only problem is that i'm still going to need to fill a 3/8th gap with a cheater piece.




I dont see a way around it unless I redo my collector completely which I dont have enough bends left to do, although your rendering is tempting me...

Edit: oh and the bore spacing (center to center, right?) is 3.5" by a quick eyeball with my tape measure. 1.5" between each bore edge to edge.

 

That's awesome Tim!

Wayne, a spacer is fine. That's not a cheated cut. A cheater cut is an angled cut not perpendicular to the center axis of the pipe (if that makes sense). I'm sure you noticed the pipe you cut at an angle ended up with a bigger, ovaled diameter that didn't quite match up to the other pipe.