didn't know it was an increment %

hks ssqv (I think it's a fake) obviously tested for leaks









my version of O2 clamp








random photos










now boost pressure is 10+ psi (0.7 bar)

Dunno how, but I can reach maximum boost on first gear with that chrubo, really impressed!
whell... It's time to set the spark advance
maybe I will post a video soon

 

 

a slow ride testing new gopro position

 

some gear pulls

 

it's happening again
precisely three times in two days, one of these during a 6th gear pull (saw only 200 kph before SHHHHHH)

btw
off topic mode: ON

"hey buddy, look at my new super racing seat"
"cool, can I try it?"
"go ahead!!"
<awful noises while I try entering in a miata with that seat>
"awersome!! compliments "
-back to home
-mobile starts to ring
-see that:




mfw had to buy another mobile: 300€ gone

off topic mode: OFF

have to wait another mounth for rev ms

 

today:



now is enough, I will fix that

 

what are we looking at? That almost looks like the compressor outlet pipe, but that means the pipe with what looks like the IAT sensor in it is going to the compressor inlet, which is wrong wrong wrong.

 

We're looking at a popped-off charge hose.

Need to put a bead on that tube or it'll keep slipping off. At least rough it up.

Also: What Leafy said.

 

Why the o2 clamp?

 

I know that, but it's the oem sensor, which is impossible to seal against boost pressure.
When I can buy rev ms2 first step must be gm iat sensor with bung right before throttle body and obviously afm removal, but until that I have to read wrong intake temperature (hotter than real)...

 

I'm running an emanage blue: increment is %, and when I am on boost and low tps and rev, the oem ecu is still on closed loop, trying to reach 14.7 afr.
Also I am running LPG, and this particular O2 clamp do three things:
when on gasoline is a simple O2 clamp (1.1 bar absolute pressure and 2 seconds delay before return real O2 signal) setted to 0.45V
when on LPG a bypass on afm mod. is active (420cc rx8 injectors required afm modification) and when in boost automatically switches to gasoline activating the O2 clamp too and removing afm bypass

 

yess! Finally I found a workshop with bead tool: he can do it on friday

 

compression test today:
cold engine: I couldn't warm up because intake line is at the workshop
wot
without spark plugs, ignition and injection connectors disconnected
very strange results

27 bar average (390 psi)

pic related:



cyl n°1 is 5
cyl n°2 is 6
and so on

after first check battery was low, crank was lower and readings too
but... I've read about 200 psi for a new 1.8 engine: this is almost double pressure!

 

I think you did something wrong.

 

Put it right past the intercooler (or in the endtank), in airflow. If you put it in the engine bay, it'll heat soak.

 

I found the issue: wrong scale

I will do that when I fix this:



broken chain, I had to drop the car down manually

Btw

















result: 11 psi till the redline

with previous setup 0-60 was 4.9s, now I am curious ^^

 

 

after waste signal mod: couldn't do a good start because of the wheel spin on first gear


this sunday this little miata will see the track for the first time after turbo aid ^^

 

this little miata is still running very well, but it's time for some cheap improvement:
1.3 bar radiator cap



set of ??? grommets (dunno the name in english)



to do this (thx acedeuce802):




and, last but not least... I have enough money for the rev ms2!!

but I don't have my tune driver anymore... he is in canada for a mounth


Oh, and I'm preparing an ebc with an ALLOFIT button for 12 psi, I hope it will reduce the boost threshold



aaand it's time for a cold air induction, precisely a filter box

worst problem is: I have no time for this hobby

 

turbo started to whistle when in high boost (10+psi)
I checked for leaks, but all seems right
when I checked for shaft play, I notice a little play, around 0.5-1mm (0.019-0.04 inches)
Is it normal? I don't remember that when I installed it...