enhanced ms2 is an awesome product: very intuitive, and most of all it started on the very first try!

bung for the gm iat sensor





3" flex joint





contemplating the massive difference between 2.5" and 3"





first log: no changes at all, only starting map. Awesome!

(I didn't find the compressor o-ring yet)

 

I'm glad you liked it and that it worked out so well for you from the get-go.

Going for the Enhanced MS2 vs the Basic MS2 was also a worthy upgrade in my opinion.

 

the car is running very well
I did some refinement, expecially for the low revs and medium loads
Oh, and I pulled a lot of fuel in boost (from under 10 to 11.9)
strange thing: with 18° advance some knock is present..



edit: it's a 5th gear pull

 

another 5th gear pull: this time with the compressor sealed




Needs more tune at low loads, but it's running fine.
With this pull I saw 900°C at the manifold, it's the reason of the 11:1
but..... I can't use launch control and flat shift!!
simply.. doesn't work!
I wired three switches to ground for: table switch, launch and valet limiter (my mom drives my car too)
The table switch works, valet works too, but the launch don't start at all.
The green light appears when I switch to gnd, and stays on even when I open the switch, but nothing else is happening. The launch+flatshift is active, but I think the ms don't recognize the clutch switch.
I tried to close the contacts of the clutch connector manually, but nothing changed (the clutch switch is in good condition)

What's wrong?!?!?
I'm sure is a minor thing, but I can't find out alone

 

To get my clutch switch to work right I had to disconnect the neutral switch on the tranny.

 

Does the CLUTCH indicator turn green when you depress the clutch? How about the NEUTRAL indicator when you the gearbox is in neutral?

 

the clutch indicator is always off, and the neutral is always green, unless I'm running. Seems like it calculates something like rpm/speed to know if I'm in neutral or not. I made something similar on my motorbike for a gear indicator and the response of the neutral indicator seems the same: nothing mechanical

 

I think you have one of the NB cars that has a single wire for both clutch and neutral, and only goes to 1V (brown/white if I remember correctly).

You will need to cut the wire that goes to pin 1V and insert it into 3I instead.

 

Thanks

you intend to splice the br/W from 1V together with the 3I, right?
I'm doing it right now

 

Correct.

Also, If I'm right, there should be no wire in your harness on 3I. So you will need to remove a wire/pin from something unused and put it in 3I and then splice it to 1V.

 

Done it.
Now the clutch indicator is always on, even if the clutch connector is unplugged.
When I enable the L.C. switch the launch is active, but the clutch switch is always on, so I cannot use it


Maybe you are right, I've read a lot of issues because of the neutral switch, but I'm a little confused: did the neutral switch comes only on cruise miatas? Mine is a eudm mx5 without it...

Can you tell me which is the plug on the gearbox? I can check it now

 

I did it from inside, it's dark and I don't have a garage






new coilover kit from a friend of mine




coudn't find a new compressor o-ring, so: 300°C silicone sealant





aaand reinforced the manifold welds




after that: another fifth gear pull

 

Are you sure a rigid brace was the best idea? I'd worry about the runners cracking when things to hot.

 

It works!
At the end it was really the neutral switch
launch control is useless on first gear (wheel spin) but very cool
flat shift is very funny, but slower than a "classical" shifting
maybe I have to change some parameter, but for today I am satisfied


If you watch my second post (1st page) you can see the same brace but with no penetration (low amperage). It lasted 10.000 km
This time I tig welded it with 120 A

 

look who's arrived ^^

 

The car is running better day after day, but the clutch is beginning to slip (while I don't lift off the right foot) when I change gear with flat shift
damn egg smell
soooo: flat shift disabled

 

I'm planning to build my engine: it's 10.000 km of chrubo stress, I want to be sure that I won't broke anything (and raise the pressure)

Is that enough or I need something else?
Eagle Rods Wiseco Pistons MIATA 1.8 TURBO K553M84 CRS5233M3D | eBay

Whitch clutch would you buy for 250 rwhp?

or... is a waste of money for that power and all I need is only ebay rods and stock pistons + new rings??

CXRacing Mazda Miata 323 1.6 1.8 B BP H Beam Rod Rods + Bolts | eBay

I need your opinions!!

 

Ebay rods are fine. Get Supertech pistons from 949 Racing. I'm using the ACT XTSS and like it but there are many good choices from FM and others.

Put your location in your profile so it shows under your screen name.

Spark map looks good but you can usually go up to 29-30 in the higher end of the 101kpa range.

 

Logs didn't see any knock, but I feel the car a little bit slower (compared to the beginning), even if it's running fine and smooth.
Supertech pistons? I will take them. Thanks for the advice

this is the last piece I need to make the 3" exhaust:





made in china, shipped in east coast (usa) and then shipped in Italy (wat)

 

Cx racing rods ordered.
Cheapest rods,
in the world.

I temporary run with stock pistons + cx racing rods and new rings and bushings

By the way: which ring would you like to buy?
like, are those good enough for a temporary use?

*CHROME PISTON RINGS* Mazda Protege Miata MX-5 1.8L DOHC L4 16v 'BP' 1990-2005 | eBay

consider that I would buy 9:1 pistons, but now I don't have enough €€€