DNA54

well, it's a cheap lpg setup: lpg ecu read pulse width of "oem" injectors and drives the lpg injectors with a programmable multiplier. That's it.

The only way to change the injector size is to enlarge the nozzle diameter.
The perfect match for the rx8 yellow injectors is a 3mm dia. nozzle

Let's say that there is no huge power difference between gasoline and propane, but my setup is really basic. To have the benefits of pure propane I need another lpg ecu like the brc sequent, emmegas, or even the icom liquid injection (they guarantee more power even with stock engine, and it's green )


I thing is presumptuous for a newbie of this forum to sell electronic stuff, this is the main thought that stopped me from post in the classifields.

talking about the ms2, I simply followed the advice, most (all) of you told me to buy rev's ms2... but I was fully satisfied: it is really a great product.

BTW
the ebay manifold have to last at least one mounth, because I plan to build it stronger

Pictures time!!



from the left: table - launch/flatshift - valet - high/low boost

the reason I put a valet switch is because I'm planning to build the engine, and for the first 1000 km the valet will be on

from 2" to 3"



































downpipe is 2.75 to 3"

















in this photo the exhaust seems too low, but is upper than the chassis



result: full boost at 3500 rpm (10 psi)

safe advance table:

DNA54

forget the vss, I don't get why I get those values



it's a fifth gear pull at 10 psi (170 kPa)
the engine runs VERY fine, I cannot wait to dyno it again, but first I wanna build a new manifold


but I can't wait

DNA54

merry christmas!!!

DNA54

"too lazy to check grounds"

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Ouch. Burned the ground wires when engaging the starter?

DNA54

Not really..
What was happening: casual spikes on rpm signal and boost (psi) but not on map (kpa)
That was strange, in fact I saw casual duty rises without evident reason, only after checking every single parameter on megalog I found that boost psi has the same spikes as injector duty.

Sometimes, during hard driving, expecially coming out from a corner at high revs and then wot, the battery light turned on (sometimes flashing) but with constant 14V with no spikes ever.

Sometimes the engine died with that light on, and if I do a power cycle (turning off and on the key) all disappears and the engine ran well.

I thought that the problem was bad grounds, and I rerouted the main one.

I don't know where the other ecu ground is ( from ecu gnd to chassis) but since I rerouted the main one the problem seems to be vanished

DNA54

watch the knock in:



I was tuning ebc in cl (lots to do), the battery light turned on with no reason (14 volts) and during the next pull (screened) the alternator died (darker lights), if I accelerated it misfired like with launch on and clutch depressed and tunerstudio said "offline"...

turning the key off and on again (ecu reset???) resurrected the car -.-'

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I was always a bit concerned with all the knock you were registering this whole time. Is it actually pinging?

DNA54

how can I test that?
the only thing I've done with the emanage blue was connect the knock sensor to a portable guitar amplifier and listen with headphones, and I could hear knock rising the advance from software...

18psi

iTrader: (76)

det cans.
the bp is a rough/noisy engine so I wouldn't be surprised it's picking up random noise, or perhaps it's just set too sensitive, but I would find out before you push this thing

*edit: and you've obviously have an electrical issue too if you're pegging it like crazy on that last pull

DNA54

yes, the last log screen is why I "replaced" engine grounds...
Tonight I will do another log to see if there anyways spikes or not

DNA54

well, I've done the log, but also opened two windows in the block...

this was #3 connecting rod



moar carnage pics soon

merry christmas...

DNA54

last log, around five minutes before buoooo CHUFF rattle rattle rattle



and the advance table I was tuning



I tried to set the advance to 26 degrees at 4500 rpm and 170 kPa to see if the oem knock sensor works, and... yes, it detected the knock and pulled 2 degrees. Obviously it lasted maybe half of a second, it was just a test.

The windows were open at 6000 rpm btw

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

So turbo no hit block, did block hit turbo?

DNA54

well, no, but it was pretty close to the turbo!
Now I can see from side to side of the block

18psi

iTrader: (76)

so the sensor was working, and that was knock.

lol

you definitely found out the hard way

DNA54

quick question:
you have:
new main bearing
ebay rods
new piston ring set
oem head gasket
supertech valve seals
8 spare 10:1 oem pistons in good condition
another block
another oil pan
lots of stuff from 3 BP's

your goal is 250-275 whp on the road

do you:
-wait two months and build with be oil pump and supertech 8.8's overbore (because money)
-istantbuild with oem pump, rev limiter to 7000 and oem pistons

are oem pistons good enough to handle 250 whp on the road, and maybe two trackdays a year?

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

OEM pistons good for 350

18psi

iTrader: (76)

pump gas or e85?
if the answer is pump gas, then my answer is forged.
if not, then stick with oem.

DNA54

pump gas.. 95 or 98 octane. With octane booster I can run 100 octane, but is a waste of money (pretty expensive)

if oem pistons are really good for 300hp, I can simply limit the power down of a certain limit
in sardinia 250 whp are, how can I tell... interesting

and I want the car back in no time