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enhanced ms2 is an awesome product: very intuitive, and most of all it started on the very first try! :party:
bung for the gm iat sensor https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066 3" flex joint https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066 :dealwithit: contemplating the massive difference between 2.5" and 3" https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066 first log: no changes at all, only starting map. Awesome! (I didn't find the compressor o-ring yet) http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...ps04ccaddc.png |
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Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1183521)
enhanced ms2 is an awesome product: very intuitive, and most of all it starte
first log: no changes at all, only starting map. Awesome! (I didn't find the compressor o-ring yet) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416239944 Going for the Enhanced MS2 vs the Basic MS2 was also a worthy upgrade in my opinion. |
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the car is running very well
I did some refinement, expecially for the low revs and medium loads Oh, and I pulled a lot of fuel in boost (from under 10 to 11.9) strange thing: with 18° advance some knock is present.. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416351649 edit: it's a 5th gear pull |
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another 5th gear pull: this time with the compressor sealed
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416695001 Needs more tune at low loads, but it's running fine. With this pull I saw 900°C at the manifold, it's the reason of the 11:1 but..... I can't use launch control and flat shift!!:crx: simply.. doesn't work! I wired three switches to ground for: table switch, launch and valet limiter (my mom drives my car too):blah: The table switch works, valet works too, but the launch don't start at all. The green light appears when I switch to gnd, and stays on even when I open the switch, but nothing else is happening. The launch+flatshift is active, but I think the ms don't recognize the clutch switch. I tried to close the contacts of the clutch connector manually, but nothing changed (the clutch switch is in good condition) What's wrong?!?!? I'm sure is a minor thing, but I can't find out alone :hustler: |
To get my clutch switch to work right I had to disconnect the neutral switch on the tranny.
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Does the CLUTCH indicator turn green when you depress the clutch? How about the NEUTRAL indicator when you the gearbox is in neutral?
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1184679)
Does the CLUTCH indicator turn green when you depress the clutch? How about the NEUTRAL indicator when you the gearbox is in neutral?
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I think you have one of the NB cars that has a single wire for both clutch and neutral, and only goes to 1V (brown/white if I remember correctly).
You will need to cut the wire that goes to pin 1V and insert it into 3I instead. |
Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1184687)
I think you have one of the NB cars that has a single wire for both clutch and neutral, and only goes to 1V (brown/white if I remember correctly).
You will need to cut the wire that goes to pin 1V and insert it into 3I instead. you intend to splice the br/W from 1V together with the 3I, right? I'm doing it right now |
Correct.
Also, If I'm right, there should be no wire in your harness on 3I. So you will need to remove a wire/pin from something unused and put it in 3I and then splice it to 1V. |
Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1184719)
Correct.
Also, If I'm right, there should be no wire in your harness on 3I. So you will need to remove a wire/pin from something unused and put it in 3I and then splice it to 1V. Now the clutch indicator is always on, even if the clutch connector is unplugged. When I enable the L.C. switch the launch is active, but the clutch switch is always on, so I cannot use it
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1184636)
To get my clutch switch to work right I had to disconnect the neutral switch on the tranny.
Can you tell me which is the plug on the gearbox? I can check it now |
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I did it from inside, it's dark and I don't have a garage
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 new coilover kit from a friend of mine https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 coudn't find a new compressor o-ring, so: 300°C silicone sealant :party: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 aaand reinforced the manifold welds https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 after that: another fifth gear pull https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 |
Are you sure a rigid brace was the best idea? I'd worry about the runners cracking when things to hot.
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It works!
At the end it was really the neutral switch :party: launch control is useless on first gear (wheel spin) but very cool flat shift is very funny, but slower than a "classical" shifting maybe I have to change some parameter, but for today I am satisfied :giggle:
Originally Posted by Schuyler
(Post 1184736)
Are you sure a rigid brace was the best idea? I'd worry about the runners cracking when things to hot.
If you watch my second post (1st page) you can see the same brace but with no penetration (low amperage). It lasted 10.000 km This time I tig welded it with 120 A :naughty: |
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416903195
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416903195 The car is running better day after day, but the clutch is beginning to slip (while I don't lift off the right foot) when I change gear with flat shift damn egg smell soooo: flat shift disabled :giggle: |
I'm planning to build my engine: it's 10.000 km of chrubo stress, I want to be sure that I won't broke anything (and raise the pressure)
Is that enough or I need something else? Eagle Rods Wiseco Pistons MIATA 1.8 TURBO K553M84 CRS5233M3D | eBay :drool: Whitch clutch would you buy for 250 rwhp? or... is a waste of money for that power and all I need is only ebay rods and stock pistons + new rings?? CXRacing Mazda Miata 323 1.6 1.8 B BP H Beam Rod Rods + Bolts | eBay I need your opinions!! :vash2: |
Ebay rods are fine. Get Supertech pistons from 949 Racing. I'm using the ACT XTSS and like it but there are many good choices from FM and others.
Put your location in your profile so it shows under your screen name. Spark map looks good but you can usually go up to 29-30 in the higher end of the 101kpa range. |
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1185294)
Ebay rods are fine. Get Supertech pistons from 949 Racing. I'm using the ACT XTSS and like it but there are many good choices from FM and others.
Put your location in your profile so it shows under your screen name. Spark map looks good but you can usually go up to 29-30 in the higher end of the 101kpa range. Supertech pistons? I will take them. Thanks for the advice ;) this is the last piece I need to make the 3" exhaust: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417036149 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417036149 made in china, shipped in east coast (usa) and then shipped in Italy (wat) |
Cx racing rods ordered.
Cheapest rods, in the world. I temporary run with stock pistons + cx racing rods and new rings and bushings By the way: which ring would you like to buy? like, are those good enough for a temporary use? *CHROME PISTON RINGS* Mazda Protege Miata MX-5 1.8L DOHC L4 16v 'BP' 1990-2005 | eBay consider that I would buy 9:1 pistons, but now I don't have enough €€€ |
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