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-   DIY Turbo Discussion (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/)
-   -   diy "turbo no hit block" '00 BP miata (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/diy-turbo-no-hit-block-00-bp-miata-79849/)

DNA54 11-17-2014 09:54 AM

5 Attachment(s)
enhanced ms2 is an awesome product: very intuitive, and most of all it started on the very first try! :party:

bung for the gm iat sensor

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066

3" flex joint

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066

:dealwithit:

contemplating the massive difference between 2.5" and 3"

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066

first log: no changes at all, only starting map. Awesome!

(I didn't find the compressor o-ring yet)

http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...ps04ccaddc.png

Reverant 11-17-2014 10:59 AM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by DNA54 (Post 1183521)
enhanced ms2 is an awesome product: very intuitive, and most of all it starte
first log: no changes at all, only starting map. Awesome!

(I didn't find the compressor o-ring yet)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416239944

I'm glad you liked it and that it worked out so well for you from the get-go.

Going for the Enhanced MS2 vs the Basic MS2 was also a worthy upgrade in my opinion.

DNA54 11-18-2014 06:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
the car is running very well
I did some refinement, expecially for the low revs and medium loads
Oh, and I pulled a lot of fuel in boost (from under 10 to 11.9)
strange thing: with 18° advance some knock is present..

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416351649

edit: it's a 5th gear pull

DNA54 11-22-2014 05:23 PM

1 Attachment(s)
another 5th gear pull: this time with the compressor sealed

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416695001


Needs more tune at low loads, but it's running fine.
With this pull I saw 900°C at the manifold, it's the reason of the 11:1
but..... I can't use launch control and flat shift!!:crx:
simply.. doesn't work!
I wired three switches to ground for: table switch, launch and valet limiter (my mom drives my car too):blah:
The table switch works, valet works too, but the launch don't start at all.
The green light appears when I switch to gnd, and stays on even when I open the switch, but nothing else is happening. The launch+flatshift is active, but I think the ms don't recognize the clutch switch.
I tried to close the contacts of the clutch connector manually, but nothing changed (the clutch switch is in good condition)

What's wrong?!?!?
I'm sure is a minor thing, but I can't find out alone :hustler:

Leafy 11-22-2014 06:13 PM

To get my clutch switch to work right I had to disconnect the neutral switch on the tranny.

Reverant 11-23-2014 02:04 AM

Does the CLUTCH indicator turn green when you depress the clutch? How about the NEUTRAL indicator when you the gearbox is in neutral?

DNA54 11-23-2014 04:33 AM


Originally Posted by Reverant (Post 1184679)
Does the CLUTCH indicator turn green when you depress the clutch? How about the NEUTRAL indicator when you the gearbox is in neutral?

the clutch indicator is always off, and the neutral is always green, unless I'm running. Seems like it calculates something like rpm/speed to know if I'm in neutral or not. I made something similar on my motorbike for a gear indicator and the response of the neutral indicator seems the same: nothing mechanical


Reverant 11-23-2014 04:48 AM

I think you have one of the NB cars that has a single wire for both clutch and neutral, and only goes to 1V (brown/white if I remember correctly).

You will need to cut the wire that goes to pin 1V and insert it into 3I instead.

DNA54 11-23-2014 12:16 PM


Originally Posted by Reverant (Post 1184687)
I think you have one of the NB cars that has a single wire for both clutch and neutral, and only goes to 1V (brown/white if I remember correctly).

You will need to cut the wire that goes to pin 1V and insert it into 3I instead.

Thanks

you intend to splice the br/W from 1V together with the 3I, right?
I'm doing it right now

Reverant 11-23-2014 01:34 PM

Correct.

Also, If I'm right, there should be no wire in your harness on 3I. So you will need to remove a wire/pin from something unused and put it in 3I and then splice it to 1V.

DNA54 11-23-2014 01:52 PM


Originally Posted by Reverant (Post 1184719)
Correct.

Also, If I'm right, there should be no wire in your harness on 3I. So you will need to remove a wire/pin from something unused and put it in 3I and then splice it to 1V.

Done it.
Now the clutch indicator is always on, even if the clutch connector is unplugged.
When I enable the L.C. switch the launch is active, but the clutch switch is always on, so I cannot use it



Originally Posted by Leafy (Post 1184636)
To get my clutch switch to work right I had to disconnect the neutral switch on the tranny.

Maybe you are right, I've read a lot of issues because of the neutral switch, but I'm a little confused: did the neutral switch comes only on cruise miatas? Mine is a eudm mx5 without it...

Can you tell me which is the plug on the gearbox? I can check it now

DNA54 11-23-2014 02:07 PM

14 Attachment(s)
I did it from inside, it's dark and I don't have a garage

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632


new coilover kit from a friend of mine

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632


coudn't find a new compressor o-ring, so: 300°C silicone sealant :party:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632

aaand reinforced the manifold welds

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632


after that: another fifth gear pull

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632

Schuyler 11-23-2014 03:06 PM

Are you sure a rigid brace was the best idea? I'd worry about the runners cracking when things to hot.

DNA54 11-23-2014 04:56 PM

It works!
At the end it was really the neutral switch :party:
launch control is useless on first gear (wheel spin) but very cool
flat shift is very funny, but slower than a "classical" shifting
maybe I have to change some parameter, but for today I am satisfied :giggle:


Originally Posted by Schuyler (Post 1184736)
Are you sure a rigid brace was the best idea? I'd worry about the runners cracking when things to hot.


If you watch my second post (1st page) you can see the same brace but with no penetration (low amperage). It lasted 10.000 km
This time I tig welded it with 120 A :naughty:

DNA54 11-24-2014 09:16 AM

1 Attachment(s)
look who's arrived ^^

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416838580

DNA54 11-25-2014 03:13 AM

2 Attachment(s)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416903195

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416903195

The car is running better day after day, but the clutch is beginning to slip (while I don't lift off the right foot) when I change gear with flat shift
damn egg smell
soooo: flat shift disabled :giggle:

DNA54 11-25-2014 02:38 PM

I'm planning to build my engine: it's 10.000 km of chrubo stress, I want to be sure that I won't broke anything (and raise the pressure)

Is that enough or I need something else?
Eagle Rods Wiseco Pistons MIATA 1.8 TURBO K553M84 CRS5233M3D | eBay :drool:

Whitch clutch would you buy for 250 rwhp?

or... is a waste of money for that power and all I need is only ebay rods and stock pistons + new rings??

CXRacing Mazda Miata 323 1.6 1.8 B BP H Beam Rod Rods + Bolts | eBay

I need your opinions!! :vash2:

sixshooter 11-26-2014 07:56 AM

Ebay rods are fine. Get Supertech pistons from 949 Racing. I'm using the ACT XTSS and like it but there are many good choices from FM and others.

Put your location in your profile so it shows under your screen name.

Spark map looks good but you can usually go up to 29-30 in the higher end of the 101kpa range.

DNA54 11-26-2014 04:09 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by sixshooter (Post 1185294)
Ebay rods are fine. Get Supertech pistons from 949 Racing. I'm using the ACT XTSS and like it but there are many good choices from FM and others.

Put your location in your profile so it shows under your screen name.

Spark map looks good but you can usually go up to 29-30 in the higher end of the 101kpa range.

Logs didn't see any knock, but I feel the car a little bit slower (compared to the beginning), even if it's running fine and smooth.
Supertech pistons? I will take them. Thanks for the advice ;)

this is the last piece I need to make the 3" exhaust:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417036149

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417036149

made in china, shipped in east coast (usa) and then shipped in Italy (wat)

DNA54 11-27-2014 12:42 PM

Cx racing rods ordered.
Cheapest rods,
in the world.

I temporary run with stock pistons + cx racing rods and new rings and bushings

By the way: which ring would you like to buy?
like, are those good enough for a temporary use?

*CHROME PISTON RINGS* Mazda Protege Miata MX-5 1.8L DOHC L4 16v 'BP' 1990-2005 | eBay

consider that I would buy 9:1 pistons, but now I don't have enough €€€


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