does your FM bov sound like a turkey - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 04-25-2007, 04:40 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Mechazawa View Post
i was waiting for someone to post it.

where is your BOV located? is it nearer the throttle body or the turbo? BOV flutter can be alleviated a bit by installing the BOV (or BPV in your case since you have it recirc'd) nearer the throttle body.
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Old 04-25-2007, 04:49 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
How does the method of attachement really matter in how it performs?
Just a general indicator of quality. It's not a trump card, mind you, but it tells me they are more concerned with market share than functionality. With aftermarket car parts universal is often times another word for mediocre.
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Old 04-25-2007, 04:54 PM   #23
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btw, i run a 1G dsm valve, and it leaks a bit on idle. just something to think about.
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Old 04-25-2007, 05:13 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by jwarriner View Post
Just a general indicator of quality. It's not a trump card, mind you, but it tells me they are more concerned with market share than functionality. With aftermarket car parts universal is often times another word for mediocre.
Actually the valves with skin crawl inducing hose connections are almost universally application specific, its only recently that they have been marketed heavily to the universal market. 25mm ports will be replacements for 25mm Bosch valves such as in a Saab or VW, 34mm would work well on an EVO or 2nd Gen Eclipse. A valve with a 28mm pressure port and a 25mm discharge would be just dandy on a Pulsar GTiR...

Come to think of it, the valves that I'm assuming that you prefer, ie those with proprietary flanges like a Blitz or a GReddy or an Apexi or an HKS, all of those are universal and require the purchase of weld-on mounting flanges or fitting kits. Another way to get money out of the consumer... Just a different viewpoint

And just as an FYI, we make over a 100 different valves, and quite a few have hose style connectors...
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Old 04-25-2007, 05:33 PM   #25
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Yeah, I was speaking more of "easy to install" rather than universal but needs welding.
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Old 04-25-2007, 07:39 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
ya that is the one
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:04 PM   #27
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It looks like it has a brass piston... does it have any o-rings? If the seal between the top/vacuum portion of the valve and the piston shirt isn't tight enough its possible that that is causing the flutter. Basically at idle the spring is enough to keep the valve closed against the diminished vacuum (of course), and during boost even though the top is leaking it, along with the spring is enough to keep the valve closed. Right at lift the differential is enough to open the valve but as pressure drops there isn't enough vacuum to keep the valve open so it closes, and opens, and closes blah blah blah.

Another cause beyond the spring tension that can cause the flutter.
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Old 04-28-2007, 12:26 AM   #28
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I had the turkey gobble when I first installed my turbo. I diagnosed the problem as follows:

1. Removed the bypass valve and plugged the ports on the charge pipe and intake with duct tape. Drove car. RESULT: Turkey gobble remained. This confirmed that the gooble sound was actually the vac pressure backing up on the turbo.

2. Removed the duct tape and installed a heater hose directly connecting both ports with no bypass valve (fully open). Drove the car. RESULT: No gobble sound, concluding that the bypass valve can't be operating correctly.

Later solved the problem with a new BOV.
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Old 04-28-2007, 07:15 PM   #29
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problem mostly resolved. switched to another vac port with a bigger signal line. much more quiet and proper sounding.
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Old 04-28-2007, 08:49 PM   #30
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that can do it.
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