Ceramic Fins on TT set up
#1
Ceramic Fins on TT set up
I know TT set ups have been done before. Let me explain my situation and hopefully you can help me out.
I just got offered a pair of turbos off of a JDM 2JZ.
Which has ceramic internals and makes me nervous if they will hold up.
What I'm shooting for right around 250rwhp of a 1.8 with forged rods, pistons, and APR studs. With a 3in exhaust all the way back.
Turbo(s) Specs:
Turbine 60/48
Compressor 62/39
.42ar
Thanks,
Tim
I just got offered a pair of turbos off of a JDM 2JZ.
Which has ceramic internals and makes me nervous if they will hold up.
What I'm shooting for right around 250rwhp of a 1.8 with forged rods, pistons, and APR studs. With a 3in exhaust all the way back.
Turbo(s) Specs:
Turbine 60/48
Compressor 62/39
.42ar
Thanks,
Tim
#4
Take everything I say below with a grain of salt.
Some nissans have ceramic turbines as well. The general consensus of the ceramic nissan turbos (some RB engine nissan turbo comes with this, as well as the Y33 Cima vq30det) is that they shine because their material is light. Unfortunately, when you are pushing them to where you are out of their efficiency they tend to fail and fatigue the blades until they crack. It's another general rule of thumb that they go at "15 psi" but I'm positive is more of a velocity bounding issue.
Check and see where your engine lies on the compressor chart based on the power goal you are looking for and I say if it's all good, get the turbo inspected. If it's still good, booyah... roll with it.
Honestly, you may have a tough time getting rid of them because all the nissan guys know the deal, and most people that sell them have already pushed them pretty hard.
Check the skyline boards, and the cima boards for first hand information if you have a chance.
Some nissans have ceramic turbines as well. The general consensus of the ceramic nissan turbos (some RB engine nissan turbo comes with this, as well as the Y33 Cima vq30det) is that they shine because their material is light. Unfortunately, when you are pushing them to where you are out of their efficiency they tend to fail and fatigue the blades until they crack. It's another general rule of thumb that they go at "15 psi" but I'm positive is more of a velocity bounding issue.
Check and see where your engine lies on the compressor chart based on the power goal you are looking for and I say if it's all good, get the turbo inspected. If it's still good, booyah... roll with it.
Honestly, you may have a tough time getting rid of them because all the nissan guys know the deal, and most people that sell them have already pushed them pretty hard.
Check the skyline boards, and the cima boards for first hand information if you have a chance.
#5
I don't know anything about the 2jz turbo, but from what he posted, it sounds like it might be large enough to push that max hp IMO. A 40 trim 60mm turbine and 64 trim 62mm compressor? is that right? Tiny a/r but larger blade than say a gt28r. Like a small t3 compressor.
edit: I think this is the compressor map for a CT12b turbo if that's what you have
edit: I think this is the compressor map for a CT12b turbo if that's what you have
#6
What do these go for on average?
I would be using both.
That is the correct compressor map, CT12b's are the standard twins on the JDM 2JZ.
I don't know anything about the 2jz turbo, but from what he posted, it sounds like it might be large enough to push that max hp IMO. A 40 trim 60mm turbine and 64 trim 62mm compressor? is that right? Tiny a/r but larger blade than say a gt28r. Like a small t3 compressor.
edit: I think this is the compressor map for a CT12b turbo if that's what you have
edit: I think this is the compressor map for a CT12b turbo if that's what you have
#9
Inline fours do not lend themselves to twin turbo setups very well. There are simply not enough cylinders to produce adequate exhaust gasses.
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