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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 04-28-2008, 08:02 PM   #21
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I'm going to try a couple of things before I go out and buy a different ECU. This is good advise though, and probably what I'll do if i can't get it going the way I want it with the stuff i already have. The AEM FIC is still pretty new on the market. Its a great system, the only down fall is that it requires your factory MAF out of boost. There is talk that AEM is going to change that.? Thanks Joe
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:29 PM   #22
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the real downfall is that it doesn't run a map setup and do away with the need of a MAF.

what are your AFRs at idle and boost?
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:09 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked2t View Post
Its a great system, the only down fall is that it requires your factory MAF out of boost. There is talk that AEM is going to change that.? Thanks Joe
Yes, but the point that Braineak made in his first post is that the restriction of the stock MAF is insignificant. If you've got anything other than a standard K&N cone filter on the end of your intake, you're simply . It will flow plenty of air in vaccum and will do a damn good job in boost. There are guys running 15+psi on the stock MAF.

I know very little about the SAFC or FIC, but it has the same limitations as all piggybacks... it's limited by the numbers coming out of the stock ECU.

Wicked, since you're a noob, please go to the NOOB forum and start a thread that introduces yourself and your setup/goals. You can also do us all a HUGE favor by posting a short synopsis of your entire setup in your signature so we don't have to guess at what you're running to help you. You should also fill in your LOCATION on your profile page.
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:49 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked2t View Post
The AEM FIC is still pretty new on the market. Its a great system, the only down fall is that it requires your factory MAF out of boost.
Actually, it reads the MAF at all times- in and out of boost. It just applies a different multiplier when above atmo.

At any rate, I'm pretty sure that Braineack is on the money here. Compared to the old mechanical VAF sensor, the hotwire MAF just doesn't look all that restrictive to me. It's got a pretty big open area, and where obstructions do exist they appear well-streamlined.

If you want to do some interesting research on the dyno, build yourself a simple liquid-column manometer by taking a length of clear plastic tubing, forming it into a U-shape, and putting some colored liquid into the loop at the bottom. Attach one end to the intake just before the MAF, and the other just after the MAF. Under load, the pressure differential across the MAF will be visible in inches of rise, and from that you can calculate the pressure drop. (This is literally where the terms inches of H2O and inches of Hg as measurements of relative pressure come from.) I'm betting the drop across the MAF is pretty minimal.

Do the same thing with one end hooked up between filter and MAF, and the other exposed to atmo, and do an A-B comparison of two filters vs. one. Assuming the one is reasonably sized, clean, and in good condition, the difference should be close to zero.
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