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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 09-03-2008, 11:54 AM   #21
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Nice Cat
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:55 AM   #22
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Thanks.
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Old 09-03-2008, 12:06 PM   #23
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dude do it properly ! dont cheap out now ! and where are your rad fans ?

thats looks neat ! post more pics
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Old 09-03-2008, 12:17 PM   #24
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If I am seeing correctly, you have the heater core going to the top of the radiator, but no reroute done from the back of the head. When your t/stat opens, you may have no cooling at the back of the engine.
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Old 09-03-2008, 12:19 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
If I am seeing correctly, you have the heater core going to the top of the radiator, but no reroute done from the back of the head. When your t/stat opens, you may have no cooling at the back of the engine.

looks to me like he's coming off the engine in both spots...filler cap over manifold.
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Old 09-03-2008, 12:23 PM   #26
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Yes the back engine outlet is routed over the top of the engine for quick bleed, and 100% return to the radiator. We don't plan on running a fan as this is a dedicated track car, so will sacrifice ease of use for weight loss.
Nobody likes the carbon fiber door inserts?
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Old 09-03-2008, 12:23 PM   #27
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dude get a set of 550 or beter off ebay spend 15 bucks apeice to have witchhunter clean them and be done with it. You went to all the trouble and work on the car it deserves the biggest injector u can run. The stock pump can handle close to 300 hp at stock pressures with bigger injectors. And run a fan man unless it is a dragster you will want one.

Last edited by magnamx-5; 09-03-2008 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 09-03-2008, 12:26 PM   #28
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So if you have a tstat in the front, when it opens your flow from the back will be greatly reduced just when you need it. If you don't have a tstat in front, you will never have good flow to the back since the pressure at the front and back will be about equal.

A fan doesn't weigh nearly as much as the water in the bigger radiator.
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Old 09-03-2008, 12:34 PM   #29
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Appreciate the input. The car is a prototype for converting a spec miata to a reasonably inexpensive Turbo "Super Spec" Miata, with boost limited to 8PSI at the intake, mostly for longevity and keeping costs down. We are hoping by limiting the boost, we can keep more OEM 1.6 parts, so the "kit" will be cheap and quick install. The Turbo and mani are Greddy, with no boost control.
Intake will have sealed relief valve, which will be exchangable ( ie at each race you reach into a box and get your marked race valve just before grid, and return it after the race). So putting pinholes in the waste gate actuator, or messing with the rod etc will not be an advantage. ECU will be open code, but winners of each race will have their files downloaded for posting on the series website. (Braineack- want to host?) So feel free to pass on any thoughts/experiences etc. This forum rules!
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Old 09-03-2008, 12:38 PM   #30
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The H2O temp sensor at the back of the engine, combined with data from a Pi sensor placed in the front Tstat housing has shown even temps under race conditions with a 190 thermostat in place.
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Old 09-03-2008, 12:46 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drgoodwrench View Post
The H2O temp sensor at the back of the engine, combined with data from a Pi sensor placed in the front Tstat housing has shown even temps under race conditions with a 190 thermostat in place.
It should be even until the tstat opens. At that point you could drop the flow to the back of the engine drastically.
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