Further Thread on Oil Supply - Page 6 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 02-14-2016, 12:25 AM   #101
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'94-'95 blocks have this passage drilled from the factory as well. They stopped doing it midway through 1995.
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Old 02-14-2016, 12:44 AM   #102
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next lets discuss how to convert a bp4w to 1.6
allz you gotta do is weld up the cylinders, then hone em out, and voila, supercar revs
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Old 02-14-2016, 01:00 AM   #103
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If you get it right, you gain some perceived benefit from pulling the oil from that location vs. from the other side of the motor. More oil pressure to the crank mains, but how much oil pressure are you actually losing off a 40" -4AN line pushing against an .030" restrictor?

If you get it wrong, you scrap a fairly substantial amount of money in engine seals/gaskets, plus a set of bearings and probably a set of rod bolts, plus the cost of the block itself, plus the cost of re-doing all the bore/hone machine work. If you value your time at anything more than minimum wage, you're looking at $1k+ to replace the block if your hand drill deviates substantially.

How do you plan to clean the passage out afterwards? Run the engine with the port unplugged? Use air pressure with the oil filter unplugged and then re-prime the motor afterwards?

All this for what? Have you actually measured the benefit of not pulling from the passenger side?
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:12 AM   #104
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Who are we even talking to? I was drinking beer, watching supercross, and posting in a three year old thread. I forgot what the question was now. Pass me the chicharrones.
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:41 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
If you get it right, you gain some perceived benefit from pulling the oil from that location vs. from the other side of the motor. More oil pressure to the crank mains, but how much oil pressure are you actually losing off a 40" -4AN line pushing against an .030" restrictor?

If you get it wrong, you scrap a fairly substantial amount of money in engine seals/gaskets, plus a set of bearings and probably a set of rod bolts, plus the cost of the block itself, plus the cost of re-doing all the bore/hone machine work. If you value your time at anything more than minimum wage, you're looking at $1k+ to replace the block if your hand drill deviates substantially.

How do you plan to clean the passage out afterwards? Run the engine with the port unplugged? Use air pressure with the oil filter unplugged and then re-prime the motor afterwards?

All this for what? Have you actually measured the benefit of not pulling from the passenger side?
If you were doing this you'd do it on the block before rebuilding it when the block was bare. You do gain the nice benefit of not having an oil line cross the back of the engine and avoid all the oil pressure sender T breaking off issues or the leaky cheap sandwich plate issues.
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Old 02-19-2016, 11:20 PM   #106
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I have a 96 na8 block converted to turbo, using the oil sensor port for oil supply - Eng no BP22..... in a Clubbie. As a backup for a rebuild I have just bought off fleabay whats described as a JDM engine, no BP88.... and on inspection it has at the left rear of the block a bolt plugging the outlet described as an oil supply used by the 323GTX etc. Despite the engine no being higher than the 96 it looks like it might be a 94 or 95 block?

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Old 02-19-2016, 11:29 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp928 View Post
I have a 96 na8 block converted to turbo, using the oil sensor port for oil supply - Eng no BP22..... in a Clubbie. As a backup for a rebuild I have just bought off fleabay whats described as a JDM engine, no BP88.... and on inspection it has at the left rear of the block a bolt plugging the outlet described as an oil supply used by the 323GTX etc. Despite the engine no being higher than the 96 it looks like it might be a 94 or 95 block?
If by "higher" you mean the distance from the bottom of the oil pan to the top of the valve cover, all 1.8L BP engines, including all Miata engines from 1994 - 2005, are identical in this measurement (excepting the protrusion of the oil control solenoid on the top of the VVT engines.)

They all had the same bore and stroke, the same rod length, and the same basic head-casting dimensions (although the '99 and later heads had a much superior internal port shape.)

The block casting of all 1.8L BP engines is identical. The only differences are in the machining; the early blocks (as well as the '04-'05 MSM blocks) had the holes cut for oil and coolant on the exhaust side, and the very late engines had a little extra machine work done at the bottom to accommodate the main bearing support plate.

Last edited by Joe Perez; 02-20-2016 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 02-20-2016, 03:54 AM   #108
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By 'higher' I meant the number of the engine . The block I am sure is 96 is stamped BP22xxxx, while the unknown one is BP88xxxx, but this one looks like a 95 because it has the turbo feed gallery drilled.
Was NOT talking of block height!

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Old 02-20-2016, 11:23 AM   #109
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Interesting.

Very little data exists (on English-speaking forums, at least) concerning JDM Miata engines, mostly because apart from the intake manifold on the NB models, they are wholly unremarkable. This isn't Hondaland, where the North American market got watered-down weaksauce while the JDM cars were fitted with monster powerplants.

I can't see any reason why Mazda would have continued machining the turbo oil passage on blocks destined for RHD cars, but I can''t find any data to prove otherwise. By the same token, there is no universal registry of engine numbers that I'm aware of...
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:18 PM   #110
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I'll see if I can sneak a peak at a JDM NB 1.8 motor to verify some what but I doubt it has the oil passage tapped on the exhaust side.

My NB B6 doesn't have it tapped.
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