RicanmiataRacer

Thats cool man, Im using a nissan turbo as well the sr20 trim t25, It should offer good spool "hopefully"

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

that was my understanding... for inspection they usually require one area to not be painted so they can verify DOM material and they will usually want a hole drilled in the bar (1/8") so they can measure wall thickness. It's also not too complicated to measure pressure pad area (required number of in^2 at contact point). by saying you must buy a pre-approved bar they are basically saying "we don't want you to race unless you have a checking account with X amount" or "We are far too lazy to spend an extra 3 minutes at tech".

zoom2zoom

iTrader: (5)

Which intake manifold is that?

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

This sounds ---- and lazy like a Miata club. I wonder if a couple of hard dog stickers would help?

Jay

VRTSid

+1 for the drilling to check the tubing and I think they check the welds and radius of each bend or something else. Ive only had "experience" with 2 cages needing to be tested, and I think thats what they checked.

if you really are going to toss it Im sure someone would be happy to buy it from you.

do a kirk sticker, they are approved and no one know what they look like lol

mxv

iTrader: (4)

haha a harddog sticker. the intake manifold is my own as everything on this car is. nothing premade here. down the paint and gauge pod to the turbo manifold and intake manifold. ill even have to make some headlights for it too.

for the roll bar i am going by word of mouth. i heard of general specifications and went by those, just kinda good guide lines but then i hear people i run with saying that wont pass tech. i think their just jealous that i made one thats stronger and is 1/4 of the price. oh well, its just extra weight right now. need to get it running and tuned before i can do anything in it.

what do you guys think about this... i have a viscous that i need to last as long as possible. i need to last thru some dyno runs and getting around town. could i just go with tires that provide the least amount of traction in hopes to help my diff last longer? or would that be pretty pointless? broke 3 on the civic and i dont want to **** with changing them out anymore. you know what... after doing half *** research for a year for the rx7 clutch pack lsd conversion i STILL dont have it straight what parts i need. :gay:

turbopezz

you know what... after doing half *** research for a year for the rx7 clutch pack lsd conversion i STILL dont have it straight what parts i need..


yea me either......

VRTSid

lol me to! Im glad Im not alone. some people make it sound so easy. but icehawk at m.net can lay it out pretty well.

mxv

iTrader: (4)

you need the pinion shaft from a rx7 89-92 but then it changed.. you might still get it to work, dont get the turbo ones. the half shafts are ok on 1.8's but you need to do a dingy mafliper conversion and then get a pumpkin from any rx7. i think 2nd gens work. not the t2 and the driveshaft out of a 240 and a little grinding on the housing and bam your done!!!

disclaimer : complete bullshit

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

Looks pretty good man. I admire someone taking there time to do it right the first time. Keep the pics coming. I'm interested to see how she pans out.
-Michael-